Tonight marked the departure from NYC of Stanislav Vadrna, a Slovakian bartending prodigy who has been an evangelical font of information about what might called the "Kaikan School" of Ginza Bartenders:
Uyeda-san (now of Tender Bar),
Yoshida-san (now of Y&M Kisling Bar), and Ueno-san (now of High Five Bar).
Stan was in New York leading an intensive three day course on the fundamental techniques and mindset of these legendary barmen, who he has trained with himself during visits to Tokyo. Stan is multilingual, and thus able to skillfully bridge the gaps between the places and cultures involved in his training. Thirteen bartenders were lucky enough to be able to participate in Stan's NYC course (he is off to LA and then Seattle for further presentations). There were barmen from PDT, Death & Co., Dutch Kills, Ssam Bar, and there was me.
Toby Cecchini, quite amiable in person, was also there.
It probably requires a lot to get punctual 10am morning attendance from working bartenders who give last call at 2am most evenings. Stan delivered moving and detailed seminars on the philosophy of the "Kaikan" bartenders, Japanese mixology literature, stirring technique, pouring, garnishing, shaking, ice cutting and chipping, barside manner, and a host of small points.
One of the more impressive things about Stan is his fluency with the signature shakes of the "Kaikan" set. He can show you Yoshida-san's shake, and he can then switch it up and be just as adept at Uyeda-san's "Hard Shake." One of the eye-opening moments for me in the course was the realization that the Hard Shake is actually not about hitting the ice against the ends of the shaker. Properly done, you are actually trying to roll the ice inside the shaker, in a circular movement. Basically, you pull back on the shaker as the ice is about to hit the bottom, and you roll the ice back the other way. In fact, the "Hard Shake" isn't one repeated motion. It is a set of 4, broadly defined, and each creates it's own roll inside the shaker. 3 of the circles are shorter, as the arm extends to less of a distance, and one is longer. There is also a 30 degree turn to the shaker during the longer extension. Further changing the flow of the liquid inside of the shaker, and I hadn't known this, is the fact that different sizes of ice are used. It isn't a uniform cube. There is chipped ice large and small in the shaker.
There were a multitude of small details and notes that were talked about during the class, and much that was clearly the result of prolonged deliberation, experimentation, and preparation time. Which made it all the more amazing that Stan was at the end of the day more concerned with a sense of hospitality and generosity of spirit as a barman than with the "cooler than thou" approach.
Here you can see Stan's forearm tattoo. The translation might be rendered as "one chance, one meeting" which is Stan's way of expressing his desire to make the most of each service encounter.
It was really an exciting experience to be at the class. I just wish my arm didn't ache as much as it does. Ice blocks are heavy before you chip them down.
Stan will be back in town in May, with Mr. Uyeda.
As a side note, the lunch time fare was provided by the Momofuku team, and I have to tell you, the Korean style fried chicken was off the chain.
It is said that Mr. Uyeda will be packing up his Hard Shake for shipment to NYC arriving May 3rd, with return service on the 5th.