Tasting in France 2010.3 Part 3, Chenin and Allies
The other threads in this series are here:
Part 4, Dive Bouteille
Part 2, Nantais and some Touraine
Part 1, Beaujolais
Huet
As some of you may know, Im a fan of many of the wines of Domaine Huet. It is always interesting to taste with them. They dont rest on their laurels. With the support and active involvement of proprietor Tony Hwang, Noel Pinguet continues to innovate and improve the quality of the wines. Their pride in their work is palpable, but they also seem to be having fun while they do it.
I had a chance to taste with the group at the Salon, and circled back later to try a few other things privately.
Fizz.
Huet typically makes the best sparkling wine in the AOC. In truth, Vouvray is primarily a sparkling AOC, with the majority of the production going into truly indifferent negoce bottlings. Geeks dont always think about it, but that is the economic reality of the region. Anyhow, many of you will have tried one or the other release of 2002 fizz, and you eagerly anticipate the Reserve release of the last batch of2002 fizz that still rests on its lees in their cool chalk cellars. Mmmmm. Dont forget to cellar some of that stuff. The fizz from the 60s and event the 30s can be totally brilliant, and I think theyre usually making better wine now.
I visited the estate a couple of years ago with John Gilman and .sasha and during the course of a spectacular afternoon Noel mentioned that he was wrestling a bit with the sparkling wine. He didnt like adding sugar for the second fermentation either conceptually or for the extra alcohol it would bring to the wine. So beginning in 2002 Noel began to experiment with small lots of petillant naturel. Rather than finish a dry wine and add some sugar and yeast for the second fermentation in the bottle (as is done in Champagne and in other Methode Traditionelle wines), the primary fermentation is stopped by chilling at the point where the appropriate amount of sugar remains unfermented. Some hipster producers hope the existing yeast will restart and finish the fermentation, but Pinguet wants the wine to be consistent so he adds yeast as he bottles. He does this with a slight apology, but it is a very common practice.
At the Salon, we were able to taste the 2005 petillant naturel (dosed with 2002 Le Mont 1er trie). This is really lovely stuff. Very fine mousse, ripe toasty leesy balanced flavors, perfect acid, this is a very polished wine. I very much look forward to trying this at more leisure. After a first tasting I would put it on a level with the 2002.
The 2009 secs had just completed their fermentations. This was an unusually slow year for reasons that are not clear. They did 3 tries in 2009, one for dry wines, one for moelleux, and then a final picking for dry.
We tried the 2009 LHL sec which was very fine and pure, with a real zing of acidity. A nice balance of ripeness and structure, with beautiful fruit. The 2009 Clos du Bourg sec was less open and more mineral, which is not unusual early on. But it did have a very promising very long finish. These seem like very fine wines.
We werent shown demi-secs, sadly. They are still fermenting.
We made a transition with 2007 Le Mont demi-sec, which was showing very well with fine balance and perhaps a hint of heat on the finish.
The 2009 LHL moelleux is a winner. It was still estery from fermentation, but it is not extremely sweet and has pretty high acid. This will be a moelleux to have with food in a few years, and is already open.
Le Mont often shows tight early on, and that was true for the 2009 moelleux. Still estery, but classic crystalline Le Mont flavors. More sugar, more acid, more richness than the LHL. Very long, plenty of acid, plenty of minerals. Very clean, very pure. Cant wait to try this in bottle.
We had a 2008 Le Mont 1er trie for comparison, which had a big Le Mont nose with some botrytis. Its very long, and the potent 2008 acids are only apparent very late in the long finish.
Tony showed us 2009 Clos du Bourg 1er trie. Wow. Big residual sugar, lots of baby fat, less acid than 2008 but still plenty of structure. Im starting to look over my shoulder at the Grim Reaper as I try to decide how many of this sort of thing to put in the cellar, because this should be pretty much immortal and I am unlikely to be the same.
There is a Constance in 2009 and it has such pretty apricot and quince on the nose. Its very long and very balanced, but I always find Constance to be a tough read young. Its hard to imagine that it wont be beautiful, but the details of that remain to be seen.
On my return, we tried a 2006 Le Mont sec. It is a bit tight right now, but has good material.
The 2008 LHL demi-sec isnt yet in the US, which is too bad because I am eager to try these in calmer circs. This bottle showed open beautiful pure aromas and the big acidic structure that will necessitate long cellaring for the wines of this vintage.
The 2008 Le Mont demi-sec has clear rainwater Le Mont aromas and is very long but is by no means showing everything it has. I wonder if it is closing down already? With the acidic structure of the wine you would hardly know there is rs here.
The 2005 Le Mont sec showed a bit of SO2 and is pretty tight. I think these probably need to sleep.
Ive always admired the 2003 Clos du Bourg 1er trie, and in fact I bought probably more of it than I should have. A great success in the hottest year in the last 500 in central France. No roasted flavors, just great ripeness. Not a high acid year, but ripe and full and with remarkable extract. Im in no hurry, but you could drink these anytime.
Pinon
Francois is such a gracious guy, he gives the impression of having his head totally screwed on right. Its always a pleasure to see him. I also think his wines have only been getting better in recent vintages.
We tried a brut fizzit is NV, but was mostly 2007. Great stuff, clean and fresh, beautiful fruit and good balance. Could drink a lot of this.
Another NV fizz was mostly 2008. It was disgorged for the fair but was in an odd place.
Curiously, the fizz is from an old vines parcel, but it happens to be one that Francois doesnt like so well.
The 2006 cot/grolleau fizz is really delicious. Good fruit, good balance, not too much acid. Francois confirms that grolleau is grown in the most frost-prone areas because it can set a second crop.
2008 was tough for them as for everyone else in the neighborhood. They treated by helicopter because they couldnt get into the drowned fields. It was a collaborative effort with Huet, Chidaine, Foreau, and maybe one or two others that escape me now. But the stressed vines produced vivid acids in the low yielding vines. The 2008 Silex noir was quite brilliant. 27 g of rs is higher than usual by about 10g, but 6.1 g of TA is unusual as well. The wine is delicious now and has considerable potential.
The 2008 Trois Argiles (+/- the old Tradition) is open and pretty today, with a long and savory mineral finish. Very flattering now. It also has 26g rs to balance its 6.0g TA.
The 2009s had just finished fermenting. The silex had fine acid and great balance. The Trois Argiles was also very pretty, but showed easier at this point.
The 2003 Moelleux (from clay) tastes of the heat and sun of the vintage, but might be a comfort on a cold and snowy night.
There is a moelleux in 08. It has unusually high acid, and in consequence Francois gave it an extra year in barrel. It has a very open nose, and pow! a big acidic structure. Its a moelleux to have with food. 74 g rs and 7.1 g TA (!).
The 2005 moelleux has more skin phenolics and less acid than some others (4g TA). Francois acknowledged an overnight pressing for this.
The 05 Cuvee Botrytis was much richer (152g rs) and quite aromatic. Good stuff.
Chidaine
I got caught on a work call and sadly missed a big chunk of the groups tasting at Chidaine. But I tried some good wines.
The 2007 Methode Traditionelle Montlouis fizz was more open and flattering than some vintages of this. Great stuff.
To our good fortune, they had a bottle of the 1996 Almendra open. This was 10 years on its lees before its 2007 disgorgement. Ive probably drunk a case of it, but a quick check reveals that I still have 3 of these in inventory. It is totally grand stuff. I really wonder what the other guys who were tasting at the Chidaine booth at the same time we were made of the wine. They were Pierre Larmandier and Jerome Prevost. Someone should ask them the next time you see them.
The acids in 2008 at Chidaine were naturally also higher than usual. The 2008 Clos du Breuil is pretty and bright, but not fulsome. Its almost dry.
The Argiles is also just off-dry in 2008, showing zippy acidity and a bit more weight than the Clos du Breuil.
The floods in Vouvray in 2008 were devastating to the Clos Baudoin. They only have 2800 bottles out of the 3 ha. Its close to dry and very pretty, but well never see it.
As usual, the Choisilles has a bit more sugar, but elevated acid keeps it in check. Clean, nice wine.
David Lillie seemed somehow surprised that I like the wines from Les Bournais, a prime site in Montlouis reclaimed by the Chidaine. I told him you would have to be some kind of psychopath not to like them. The 2008 is a really beautiful wine with an expansive nose and excellent minerality.
In the Bournais, the Chidaine have planted 10 ares (i.e., not much) to a selection massale of chenin in franc de pied. This 2008 is a bit more acidic and more muted in the nose than the grafted wine above. Apparently the own-rooted vines are taking hold slowly. Manuela described them as looking like bonsai. A year or two ago they spoke to Didier Dagueneau about it, and he told them not to worry, that this was quite typical and that when the root system was established the vine would grow bigger. This is a clay site, so we shouldnt expect these vines to be immortal.
The 2008 Clos Habert gave an odd impressionI felt the acid much more up front than in the other wines, even with 15g of rs. There was also much more skin flavor to this wine.
The Tuffeaux has 18 g of rs, a much more mineral nose. The extra rs is welcome and well balanced, but the wine is less integrated right now, it needs more time.
Le Bouchet is usually one of their sweetest bottlings, but in 2008 it comes in as demi-sec with 20 g rs. Its bigger, riper, longer and softer than typical, but it finishes with a good pop of acid.
Belliviere
Sadly, we didnt get to taste 2009s from Christine and Eric, but it was good to see them and to try 2008s.
LEffraie in 2008 has a penetrating nose, excellent minerality, and a long finish that is much more rocks than fruit. It has significant acid and a phenolic nip in the finish. Dry as a bone, very nice wine.
Les Rosieres has a more expansive honeysuckle nose and a bit of rs (4 g). The finish is long, rocky and tasty.
VV Eparses shows more ripeness, more open aromatics. I could smell this all day, its beautiful. Medium bodied, dry, it has a long savory mineral finish. Good acid but not too much.
Caligramme in 2008 is only 1 barrique. It still has 4.5 g of rs and may finish or may not. It needs ages, really.
The fruit and structure of these wines was curiously reminiscent of the 2008 Chinons from Baudry that I had just tasted earlier that day.
To keep Levi Dalton busy for years, the Nicolas too have planted franc de pied chenin. The 2008 is the first harvest from 3 year old vines. The young vines dont give the density of their older vines, but its a nice wine. The vines are planted in clay, so again it is unlikely to be a long term experiment.
There is a Giroflees in 2009, the famed rose of Pineau dAunis. It was just racked, so it was in a slightly odd place. Its the free run juice, and has 25g of rs, so its pretty plush, but it sure was tasty. Eric thinks its done, hell chill it and bottle.
The press wine from the above becomes the Rouge-gorge. Amazing nose, rich spicy pineau daunis aromatics, sweet and fully ripe. It has a significant tannic component and a long, long fruit finish. This will age interestingly.
The very old vines pineau daunis, Hommage a Louis Derr, was pressed with 100% stems, and given a cold maceration. It is more herbal than I expected, with big tannins and a mineral crunch. Too much crunch for me, in fact. I cant really guess about how it will age. Seems like a great vintage, but this wine needs to settle down more.
There is also a 2008 Prmices from rented young vines in conversion. Ripe, passerillage, but closed down right now. Kevin said bottles in NYC are more open.
Chateau des Vaults/Closel
The television cameras were all over their booth, so I was careful to keep a glass in front of my mug as we tasted. But we had a very good tasting with Evelyne anyway.
I like the entry level Jalousie bottling in many vintagesits usually lighter and less commanding than the Papillon, you dont need a serious occasion to open one. In 2008 it is on the powerful side, with good concentration and structure, its not overmature despite the low 12 hl/ha yields (frost). Its a winnerpretty, clean, classic, with great Savennieres minerality. The 2007 is not quite as pretty, it has more skin phenolics and is just a bit rustic. 2007 was a very tough vintage with endless rain and mildew, so this is good work. I would drink it cheerfully.
There is a 2008 wine from the warm sandy soils of Caillardieres. These 25 to 30 y.o. vines were cultivated with more high canopy to preserve photosynthetic area even as some lower leaves were lost to mildew, helping the grapes to ripen even with some leaf loss. As usual, this wine is finished with some rs. Its pretty tasty, clean, not terribly long. Not exactly my kind of thing.
The great site for these guys is the Clos du Papillon, where they produce the benchmark wine.
The 2005 may be reopening a bit after having been shut tight for years. Maybe check back in in 2015? I will probably leave mine alone. It remains powerful, very mineral, and very long.
The 2006 shows some heat, power, lots of minerality and is a bit OTT to my taste.
The 2007 has a bit of wood in the nose, which Evelyne thinks will fade. This is a bit leaner, an easier side of Papillon. I will get some of this.
The other threads in this series are here:
Part 4, Dive Bouteille
Part 2, Nantais and some Touraine
Part 1, Beaujolais
Huet
As some of you may know, Im a fan of many of the wines of Domaine Huet. It is always interesting to taste with them. They dont rest on their laurels. With the support and active involvement of proprietor Tony Hwang, Noel Pinguet continues to innovate and improve the quality of the wines. Their pride in their work is palpable, but they also seem to be having fun while they do it.
I had a chance to taste with the group at the Salon, and circled back later to try a few other things privately.
Fizz.
Huet typically makes the best sparkling wine in the AOC. In truth, Vouvray is primarily a sparkling AOC, with the majority of the production going into truly indifferent negoce bottlings. Geeks dont always think about it, but that is the economic reality of the region. Anyhow, many of you will have tried one or the other release of 2002 fizz, and you eagerly anticipate the Reserve release of the last batch of2002 fizz that still rests on its lees in their cool chalk cellars. Mmmmm. Dont forget to cellar some of that stuff. The fizz from the 60s and event the 30s can be totally brilliant, and I think theyre usually making better wine now.
I visited the estate a couple of years ago with John Gilman and .sasha and during the course of a spectacular afternoon Noel mentioned that he was wrestling a bit with the sparkling wine. He didnt like adding sugar for the second fermentation either conceptually or for the extra alcohol it would bring to the wine. So beginning in 2002 Noel began to experiment with small lots of petillant naturel. Rather than finish a dry wine and add some sugar and yeast for the second fermentation in the bottle (as is done in Champagne and in other Methode Traditionelle wines), the primary fermentation is stopped by chilling at the point where the appropriate amount of sugar remains unfermented. Some hipster producers hope the existing yeast will restart and finish the fermentation, but Pinguet wants the wine to be consistent so he adds yeast as he bottles. He does this with a slight apology, but it is a very common practice.
At the Salon, we were able to taste the 2005 petillant naturel (dosed with 2002 Le Mont 1er trie). This is really lovely stuff. Very fine mousse, ripe toasty leesy balanced flavors, perfect acid, this is a very polished wine. I very much look forward to trying this at more leisure. After a first tasting I would put it on a level with the 2002.
The 2009 secs had just completed their fermentations. This was an unusually slow year for reasons that are not clear. They did 3 tries in 2009, one for dry wines, one for moelleux, and then a final picking for dry.
We tried the 2009 LHL sec which was very fine and pure, with a real zing of acidity. A nice balance of ripeness and structure, with beautiful fruit. The 2009 Clos du Bourg sec was less open and more mineral, which is not unusual early on. But it did have a very promising very long finish. These seem like very fine wines.
We werent shown demi-secs, sadly. They are still fermenting.
We made a transition with 2007 Le Mont demi-sec, which was showing very well with fine balance and perhaps a hint of heat on the finish.
The 2009 LHL moelleux is a winner. It was still estery from fermentation, but it is not extremely sweet and has pretty high acid. This will be a moelleux to have with food in a few years, and is already open.
Le Mont often shows tight early on, and that was true for the 2009 moelleux. Still estery, but classic crystalline Le Mont flavors. More sugar, more acid, more richness than the LHL. Very long, plenty of acid, plenty of minerals. Very clean, very pure. Cant wait to try this in bottle.
We had a 2008 Le Mont 1er trie for comparison, which had a big Le Mont nose with some botrytis. Its very long, and the potent 2008 acids are only apparent very late in the long finish.
Tony showed us 2009 Clos du Bourg 1er trie. Wow. Big residual sugar, lots of baby fat, less acid than 2008 but still plenty of structure. Im starting to look over my shoulder at the Grim Reaper as I try to decide how many of this sort of thing to put in the cellar, because this should be pretty much immortal and I am unlikely to be the same.
There is a Constance in 2009 and it has such pretty apricot and quince on the nose. Its very long and very balanced, but I always find Constance to be a tough read young. Its hard to imagine that it wont be beautiful, but the details of that remain to be seen.
On my return, we tried a 2006 Le Mont sec. It is a bit tight right now, but has good material.
The 2008 LHL demi-sec isnt yet in the US, which is too bad because I am eager to try these in calmer circs. This bottle showed open beautiful pure aromas and the big acidic structure that will necessitate long cellaring for the wines of this vintage.
The 2008 Le Mont demi-sec has clear rainwater Le Mont aromas and is very long but is by no means showing everything it has. I wonder if it is closing down already? With the acidic structure of the wine you would hardly know there is rs here.
The 2005 Le Mont sec showed a bit of SO2 and is pretty tight. I think these probably need to sleep.
Ive always admired the 2003 Clos du Bourg 1er trie, and in fact I bought probably more of it than I should have. A great success in the hottest year in the last 500 in central France. No roasted flavors, just great ripeness. Not a high acid year, but ripe and full and with remarkable extract. Im in no hurry, but you could drink these anytime.
Pinon
Francois is such a gracious guy, he gives the impression of having his head totally screwed on right. Its always a pleasure to see him. I also think his wines have only been getting better in recent vintages.
We tried a brut fizzit is NV, but was mostly 2007. Great stuff, clean and fresh, beautiful fruit and good balance. Could drink a lot of this.
Another NV fizz was mostly 2008. It was disgorged for the fair but was in an odd place.
Curiously, the fizz is from an old vines parcel, but it happens to be one that Francois doesnt like so well.
The 2006 cot/grolleau fizz is really delicious. Good fruit, good balance, not too much acid. Francois confirms that grolleau is grown in the most frost-prone areas because it can set a second crop.
2008 was tough for them as for everyone else in the neighborhood. They treated by helicopter because they couldnt get into the drowned fields. It was a collaborative effort with Huet, Chidaine, Foreau, and maybe one or two others that escape me now. But the stressed vines produced vivid acids in the low yielding vines. The 2008 Silex noir was quite brilliant. 27 g of rs is higher than usual by about 10g, but 6.1 g of TA is unusual as well. The wine is delicious now and has considerable potential.
The 2008 Trois Argiles (+/- the old Tradition) is open and pretty today, with a long and savory mineral finish. Very flattering now. It also has 26g rs to balance its 6.0g TA.
The 2009s had just finished fermenting. The silex had fine acid and great balance. The Trois Argiles was also very pretty, but showed easier at this point.
The 2003 Moelleux (from clay) tastes of the heat and sun of the vintage, but might be a comfort on a cold and snowy night.
There is a moelleux in 08. It has unusually high acid, and in consequence Francois gave it an extra year in barrel. It has a very open nose, and pow! a big acidic structure. Its a moelleux to have with food. 74 g rs and 7.1 g TA (!).
The 2005 moelleux has more skin phenolics and less acid than some others (4g TA). Francois acknowledged an overnight pressing for this.
The 05 Cuvee Botrytis was much richer (152g rs) and quite aromatic. Good stuff.
Chidaine
I got caught on a work call and sadly missed a big chunk of the groups tasting at Chidaine. But I tried some good wines.
The 2007 Methode Traditionelle Montlouis fizz was more open and flattering than some vintages of this. Great stuff.
To our good fortune, they had a bottle of the 1996 Almendra open. This was 10 years on its lees before its 2007 disgorgement. Ive probably drunk a case of it, but a quick check reveals that I still have 3 of these in inventory. It is totally grand stuff. I really wonder what the other guys who were tasting at the Chidaine booth at the same time we were made of the wine. They were Pierre Larmandier and Jerome Prevost. Someone should ask them the next time you see them.
The acids in 2008 at Chidaine were naturally also higher than usual. The 2008 Clos du Breuil is pretty and bright, but not fulsome. Its almost dry.
The Argiles is also just off-dry in 2008, showing zippy acidity and a bit more weight than the Clos du Breuil.
The floods in Vouvray in 2008 were devastating to the Clos Baudoin. They only have 2800 bottles out of the 3 ha. Its close to dry and very pretty, but well never see it.
As usual, the Choisilles has a bit more sugar, but elevated acid keeps it in check. Clean, nice wine.
David Lillie seemed somehow surprised that I like the wines from Les Bournais, a prime site in Montlouis reclaimed by the Chidaine. I told him you would have to be some kind of psychopath not to like them. The 2008 is a really beautiful wine with an expansive nose and excellent minerality.
In the Bournais, the Chidaine have planted 10 ares (i.e., not much) to a selection massale of chenin in franc de pied. This 2008 is a bit more acidic and more muted in the nose than the grafted wine above. Apparently the own-rooted vines are taking hold slowly. Manuela described them as looking like bonsai. A year or two ago they spoke to Didier Dagueneau about it, and he told them not to worry, that this was quite typical and that when the root system was established the vine would grow bigger. This is a clay site, so we shouldnt expect these vines to be immortal.
The 2008 Clos Habert gave an odd impressionI felt the acid much more up front than in the other wines, even with 15g of rs. There was also much more skin flavor to this wine.
The Tuffeaux has 18 g of rs, a much more mineral nose. The extra rs is welcome and well balanced, but the wine is less integrated right now, it needs more time.
Le Bouchet is usually one of their sweetest bottlings, but in 2008 it comes in as demi-sec with 20 g rs. Its bigger, riper, longer and softer than typical, but it finishes with a good pop of acid.
Belliviere
Sadly, we didnt get to taste 2009s from Christine and Eric, but it was good to see them and to try 2008s.
LEffraie in 2008 has a penetrating nose, excellent minerality, and a long finish that is much more rocks than fruit. It has significant acid and a phenolic nip in the finish. Dry as a bone, very nice wine.
Les Rosieres has a more expansive honeysuckle nose and a bit of rs (4 g). The finish is long, rocky and tasty.
VV Eparses shows more ripeness, more open aromatics. I could smell this all day, its beautiful. Medium bodied, dry, it has a long savory mineral finish. Good acid but not too much.
Caligramme in 2008 is only 1 barrique. It still has 4.5 g of rs and may finish or may not. It needs ages, really.
The fruit and structure of these wines was curiously reminiscent of the 2008 Chinons from Baudry that I had just tasted earlier that day.
To keep Levi Dalton busy for years, the Nicolas too have planted franc de pied chenin. The 2008 is the first harvest from 3 year old vines. The young vines dont give the density of their older vines, but its a nice wine. The vines are planted in clay, so again it is unlikely to be a long term experiment.
There is a Giroflees in 2009, the famed rose of Pineau dAunis. It was just racked, so it was in a slightly odd place. Its the free run juice, and has 25g of rs, so its pretty plush, but it sure was tasty. Eric thinks its done, hell chill it and bottle.
The press wine from the above becomes the Rouge-gorge. Amazing nose, rich spicy pineau daunis aromatics, sweet and fully ripe. It has a significant tannic component and a long, long fruit finish. This will age interestingly.
The very old vines pineau daunis, Hommage a Louis Derr, was pressed with 100% stems, and given a cold maceration. It is more herbal than I expected, with big tannins and a mineral crunch. Too much crunch for me, in fact. I cant really guess about how it will age. Seems like a great vintage, but this wine needs to settle down more.
There is also a 2008 Prmices from rented young vines in conversion. Ripe, passerillage, but closed down right now. Kevin said bottles in NYC are more open.
Chateau des Vaults/Closel
The television cameras were all over their booth, so I was careful to keep a glass in front of my mug as we tasted. But we had a very good tasting with Evelyne anyway.
I like the entry level Jalousie bottling in many vintagesits usually lighter and less commanding than the Papillon, you dont need a serious occasion to open one. In 2008 it is on the powerful side, with good concentration and structure, its not overmature despite the low 12 hl/ha yields (frost). Its a winnerpretty, clean, classic, with great Savennieres minerality. The 2007 is not quite as pretty, it has more skin phenolics and is just a bit rustic. 2007 was a very tough vintage with endless rain and mildew, so this is good work. I would drink it cheerfully.
There is a 2008 wine from the warm sandy soils of Caillardieres. These 25 to 30 y.o. vines were cultivated with more high canopy to preserve photosynthetic area even as some lower leaves were lost to mildew, helping the grapes to ripen even with some leaf loss. As usual, this wine is finished with some rs. Its pretty tasty, clean, not terribly long. Not exactly my kind of thing.
The great site for these guys is the Clos du Papillon, where they produce the benchmark wine.
The 2005 may be reopening a bit after having been shut tight for years. Maybe check back in in 2015? I will probably leave mine alone. It remains powerful, very mineral, and very long.
The 2006 shows some heat, power, lots of minerality and is a bit OTT to my taste.
The 2007 has a bit of wood in the nose, which Evelyne thinks will fade. This is a bit leaner, an easier side of Papillon. I will get some of this.
