Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Spent the weekend in the Boston/Cambridge area with my food-savvy 12 year old and had dinner at two Cambridge/Somerville restaurants recommended by Matteo Mollo.
First up was Bergamot: attractive ambiance, gracious welcome (even though we were 20 minutes late). For starters, we shared a delicious and very tangy Spicy Peruvian Ceviche that was a bit too spicy, then a good plate of home-made charcuteries featuring two kinds of p“té, blood sausage and a cured meat. With the former, a glass of 2010 Domaine Richou Anjou Blanc Chauvigné had lovely floral and mineral aromas, lemony acidity, good balance and body, and, with the latter, a glass of 2010 Hervé Villemade Cheverny was just terrifically good, very fragrant herbs, leather and olives, delicious mouth feel, perfect balance and weight, hit all the right notes. For mains we shared a good farro risotto and an equally good Icelandic char, and I had, most self-indulgently, a second glass of the Villemade (from a newly opened bottle, showing tighter). For every glass I was shown the bottle and offered a taste. Service, in fact, was exceptionally good throughout (our waitress, Carmen, the ideal mix of can-do efficiency and attuned friendliness). Nibbling on my daughter’s Apricot Clafoutis dessert, had a glass of 2010 Domaine de la Bergerie (Yves Guegniard) Le Clos de la Girardière Coteaux du Layon Rablay that was muted on the nose but tasted of lovely the sweet apricots backed by good acidity and tartness. In short, a most excellent experience.
Our second restaurant, Oleana, while accomplished, suffered by comparison. The reception was cordial, but more bureaucratic. The room less spacious and comfortable to the eye. No bottles were shown or preliminary tastes offered, the requested glasses of wine were just brought. Our waitress was competent and friendly, but not as charming. Their specialty is middle eastern, and the best part were our two mezes: Warm Buttered Hummus with Basturma & Tomato and Muhammara, Crudités & Walnuts, accompanied by a glass of 2010 Gurrutxaga, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Hondarrabi Zuri Blend, peach and green apple aromas, light fizz, good acidity, did the job nicely. The main dishes, a hanger steak where the meat had not been expertly chosen and a soft-shell crab with a bit too much tempura-like batter were accompanied by consecutive glasses of 2009 Colosi Nerello Mascalese Sicilia, emitting changeable aromas of violets, chives, and smoked meat, with good body, decent acidity, but a bit too spicy, the sweetness a bit too candied; and 2010 Domaine des Pothiers Gamay ‘Référence’ Côte Roannaise, quite nice non-carbonic version, with pleasant strawberry aromas, good acidity and body. Food wise, we would have probably fared better with an all meze-selection; that seemed to be where the heart of Oleana’s creativity lay. We were not inspired to order dessert or a sweet wine, so out we headed for pretty good ice cream from local purveyor J.P. Licks.
First up was Bergamot: attractive ambiance, gracious welcome (even though we were 20 minutes late). For starters, we shared a delicious and very tangy Spicy Peruvian Ceviche that was a bit too spicy, then a good plate of home-made charcuteries featuring two kinds of p“té, blood sausage and a cured meat. With the former, a glass of 2010 Domaine Richou Anjou Blanc Chauvigné had lovely floral and mineral aromas, lemony acidity, good balance and body, and, with the latter, a glass of 2010 Hervé Villemade Cheverny was just terrifically good, very fragrant herbs, leather and olives, delicious mouth feel, perfect balance and weight, hit all the right notes. For mains we shared a good farro risotto and an equally good Icelandic char, and I had, most self-indulgently, a second glass of the Villemade (from a newly opened bottle, showing tighter). For every glass I was shown the bottle and offered a taste. Service, in fact, was exceptionally good throughout (our waitress, Carmen, the ideal mix of can-do efficiency and attuned friendliness). Nibbling on my daughter’s Apricot Clafoutis dessert, had a glass of 2010 Domaine de la Bergerie (Yves Guegniard) Le Clos de la Girardière Coteaux du Layon Rablay that was muted on the nose but tasted of lovely the sweet apricots backed by good acidity and tartness. In short, a most excellent experience.
Our second restaurant, Oleana, while accomplished, suffered by comparison. The reception was cordial, but more bureaucratic. The room less spacious and comfortable to the eye. No bottles were shown or preliminary tastes offered, the requested glasses of wine were just brought. Our waitress was competent and friendly, but not as charming. Their specialty is middle eastern, and the best part were our two mezes: Warm Buttered Hummus with Basturma & Tomato and Muhammara, Crudités & Walnuts, accompanied by a glass of 2010 Gurrutxaga, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Hondarrabi Zuri Blend, peach and green apple aromas, light fizz, good acidity, did the job nicely. The main dishes, a hanger steak where the meat had not been expertly chosen and a soft-shell crab with a bit too much tempura-like batter were accompanied by consecutive glasses of 2009 Colosi Nerello Mascalese Sicilia, emitting changeable aromas of violets, chives, and smoked meat, with good body, decent acidity, but a bit too spicy, the sweetness a bit too candied; and 2010 Domaine des Pothiers Gamay ‘Référence’ Côte Roannaise, quite nice non-carbonic version, with pleasant strawberry aromas, good acidity and body. Food wise, we would have probably fared better with an all meze-selection; that seemed to be where the heart of Oleana’s creativity lay. We were not inspired to order dessert or a sweet wine, so out we headed for pretty good ice cream from local purveyor J.P. Licks.