TN: Salil Visits (Oct 14, 2019)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jay, Jeff, Gil, Jay+Marsha, Zack, Salil, David

We are back at Bite of Hong Kong. They are reliable and good and big enough to accommodate eight wine-geeks at short notice. And Jay can recite the menu in his sleep waking moments because we already know what's good: squid with Chinese leeks, roast squab (when they have it), Peking Duck, the egg tofu dish, and the lamb chops.

We arrive somewhat on time and immediately set about pontificating and kvetching and generally whooping it up. Fortunately, there aren't too many other people in the dining room to disturb on a Monday evening.

Salil is looking robust and much happier now that he's moved into town (a spot of blue in otherwise deep-red territory). Plenty of beverages tonight, much to Salil's palate... riesling and Cote-Rotie:

Selbach-Oster 2008 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese "Anrecht" - 2 606 319 015 09, beautiful, crisp with just a touch of sweetness, some lovely restrained fruit (not so ripe as apricots but fruitier than, say, green grapes), great way to start the evening and one of my favorites of the evening

Charles Hiedsieck 2004 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, "Blanc des Millenaires" - woof, and this is dry and skimpy and unpleasant coming right after the Selbach; so, yeah, it's a super-cuvee champagne but not my friend just now; judgment reserved

Leitz 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Rottland, Alte Reben - 24 079 013 08, a little tired (can it still be shut down?), delicate, lacks oomph and also lacks some palate clarity, eh

J.J. Prum 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese - 2 576 511 08 08, 8%, firm but friendly acidity, much more puckery than the Selbach: green grapes and lemon, pure and yum

Levet 2004 Cote-Rotie "La Peroline" - sturdy, blue-black fruits, a bare hint of schoolpaste confirms its rustic roots, this is rocks and moss and maybe some mushroom, and rocks, did I say rocks yet?, no bacon fat in sight, good bottle

Dom. de Vallouit 1998 Cote-Rotie "Les Roziers" - tannins have gone all fine and furry, this wine is also plenty alive and shows the typical Cote-Rotie flavors, I like the balance of this wine just a little better than the Levet

Gerin 2001 Cote-Rotie "La Landonne" - high-toned, forward, no longer exactly oaky but this is still pumped-up on wood tannins, starting to dry out, others like this more than I do

Muga 2001 Rioja Reserva - a brute of a wine, big and chewy, all dark fruits (even getting close to the density and sweetness of dried fruit), this is a great match with the squab

Goodfellow 2012 Pinot Noir, Whistling Ridge - minerally and scratchy (for pinot), the Goodfellow website suggests not opening this till next year (at least), there's also a bit of redfruit and resin, drinks really well anyway

Willi Schaefer 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett - 2 583 154 16 12, the nose is recognizably Willi Schaefer and it is gorgeous, really this bottle has it all going on: clean fruit, just a swatch of sugar here and there, restless acidity, wow

Girardin 1999 Clos Saint-Denis GC - echt Burgundy, a great bottle, the maker has a reputation for using too much oak but it did not show up here

Muller-Catoir 1998 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese - 5 174 079 15 99, quite sweet, golden raisins, a whiff of smoke, lots of bouquet

J.J. Prum 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese - 2 576 511 16 07, the cork crumbled on this one, lighter and brighter than the M-C, honey and pineapple notes
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

J.J. Prum 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese - 2 576 511 08 08, 8%, firm but friendly acidity, much more puckery than the Selbach: green grapes and lemon, pure and yum

Yet another reminder that I did not buy enough 2007 Spätlesen and Auslesen.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
What is the egg tofu dish like?
Essentially they are dumplings made of egg and soy milk, then gently sauced and served with mixed vegetables. The skin of the dumpling is a bit stretchy, which is good so it can be picked up, while the inside is kinda like a firm custard.
 
That was a lovely dinner with lots of good wines, including the beautiful Palo Cortado, which was killer with the squid and leeks.

I thought all the German wines showed very well. I found the Leitz more focused than Jeff did, saline with an Austrian-like mineral profile. The 07 Prum and the Schaefer were tops.

I didn't much care for the Hiedsiecking missile - generic and bready.

The reds were mostly a success. I thought the Gerin was showy and interesting, but drying out pretty sharply on the end. We debated whether that was due to the oak, the vintage, or both.

The Vallouit also disappointed me a little, with fruit on the nose but very little on the palate; another bottle from the same stash showed much better recently.

The Levet was aces.

I didn't like the Muga at all after a quick sniff and taste - seemed roasted and formless - but I didn't follow it thereafter since there were many other wines keeping my attention. And I think I forgot to try the Goodfellow.

Let's do this again the next time Salil comes back to NY to see the Yankees lose.
 
That was the Equipo Navazos La Bota No. 41 Palo Cortado if my notes are correct, and I loved it. Saline, nutty, rich, yet very refreshing and lovely with the garlic chicken.

Lots of winners. I liked all 3 Northern Rhones. The Gerin had a pretty nose though the palate/back end was somewhat lean and tannic (Jeff ascribes that mostly to the oak, though I wonder if some of that is the vintage as well.) Thought the Vallouit was pretty, if slightly past peak and showing some ashy notes along with that aged Syrah meatiness and smokiness. The Levet was my favorite of the trio - beautifully balanced, elegant, fragrant, really so pretty and I love the Peroline label as well.

Thought the '07 Prum GH my favorite of the evening overall and showing really well, in that zone where the fruit's still very fresh and youthful but the savoury/smoky development is just starting to emerge.

I liked but didn't love the Selbach - found it overly reductive, which oddly I don't recall being an issue when I drank several of those on release.

Zak - it's not what I want to see.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by MarkS:
What is the egg tofu dish like?
Essentially they are dumplings made of egg and soy milk, then gently sauced and served with mixed vegetables. The skin of the dumpling is a bit stretchy, which is good so it can be picked up, while the inside is kinda like a firm custard.

Sounds delish!
 
The Levet was my Wotn, I’m happy to have ordered some from the same source. I had forgotten where I got mine from that night erroneously remembering that mine were the US labels. Wild, earthy, vvvv

After that probably the Schaefer which had perfect balance.

Then a bunch of really good stuff and a very few disappointments such as the Heidsick
 
maybe it was my mood or the company (one of those nights where I generally liked everything), but I liked the Heidsieck much more than all of you. Found it super racy, maybe a touch austere but really bright, vibrant, and liked the acidity there a lot without ever finding it too sharp.
 
Agreed: the wines were either really good or really disappointing.

I followed the Goodfellow for two more days. It remained basically the same, pinot noir with a little too much rasp in its throat.

I am also following the Selbach; there's a swig or two left. It comes across as sweeter now; I think the balance was better upon opening.
 
Back
Top