Roscioli. Nights only, solid list, great food. Cinta Senese salumi and lardo, Joselito Gran Riserva, etc. Sensitive types have complained about service, but I haven't found it to be an issue.
It's not just Paris. Same story in Madrid. At least at the Ortega y Gasset location. Pricing in the cellar room is embarrassing.
Madrid didn't have as far to fall, though. I remember the 73 CSH haul. Half my bottles were smashed in transit.
Recent btls of '95, '96, and '98 Hune were all more advanced than they should have been. Verging on oxidized. From different sources, well stored for the past 7-8 yrs.