Several really good wines in this installment starting off with an old friend at the tail end of things.
2004 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (11/11/2020)
It's been more than 5 years since my last bottle of this and it has settled nicely into maturity with the sort of gentle bottle sweetness that only comes from time in the cellar. Cool herbal notes with damp forest scents and wafting dried cherry. Fully resolved and shaped more by the underlying acidity than detectable residual tannin. A lovely old dame that will quietly fade away. Drink up. (90 points)
2015 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d'Alba Superiore - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (11/12/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles. I'm not sure what more I can say vis a vis Roddolo. The wines tickle my lizard brain. I guess I could see how they might not be someone's cup of tea but I probably wouldn't have a lot in common with that person. (92 points)
2019 Morella Mezzarosa Salento IGT - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT (11/12/2020)
Bright and fresh if a bit non-distinct. This is definitely more of the thirst quenching variety of Rosato. (87 points)
NV Laherte Frères Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - France, Champagne (11/13/2020)
Taught and linear with apples and minerals. Chalky and driving on the palate and lean but not hollow. Very good, like everything I've had from Laherte, if not as visceral as some of their other wines. (90 points)
2015 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (11/13/2020)
A disappointing showing as this is my favorite Wachau producer from a very good site. Generally producer trumps vintage (while showing characteristics of the vintage) but this seems a little diffuse for a Knoll wine though in sticks the landing on some Riesling character. Hopefully my other bottles will show better. Revisit in a year or so hoping for the best. (90 points)
2014 Marguet Champagne Les Saints Remys - France, Champagne (11/15/2020)
My first time having this wine and I gather that it is 100% Pinot Noir. While it wasn't round and vinous in the way that Collin Champagnes can be, it wasn't lean or hard. Maybe lacked a bit of overall seamlessness to make a bigger impression but I was also cooking and not giving it all my attention. I have one other bottle that I'll try in a couple of years. (92 points)
2016 Alexandre Filaine Champagne Cuvée Spéciale - France, Champagne (11/15/2020)
Filaine is my current crush in Champagne. I don't know a ton about the wines but since I first tried them I've been smitten. It shows richness and generosity without weight and while there is a sense of chalk it doesn't come at the expense of a gentle mouthfeel and an ineffable digestible quality. (92 points)
2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (11/15/2020)
What makes this noticeably Rougeard is the silkiness of the palate. There is a texture that these wines have that no other wine in the Loire (or any other Cabernet family wine from anywhere) possess. The nose and palate are full of dark red fruits and tilled soil tones with top notes of pyrazine esters from several plant species. I found this more resolved than I was expecting and didn't have as much Poyeux limestone signature as I was expecting. Really beautifully crafted and impeccable but not as exciting as I was hoping for. (92 points)
2016 Ceritas Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (11/15/2020)
Deeply colored and bursting with black currant, plum and berry Cabernet fruit. Violets, a bit of licorice and graphite with a little underlying savory notes. Really well shaped if young and structured. The tannins are undeniable and solid but not aggressive. This should turn out to be a stellar Santa Cruz Cabernet. I think a few more years to integrate will take it to new heights. (93+ points)
NV Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe Stella di Campalto Choltempo Bella Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/15/2020)
I think that this is from the 2018 release but I don't know the vintage(s) of the underlying wines or much else about it (I guess I could do more internet searching, but [shrug]). My first bottle was horribly corked but this one is excellent. Really bright acids and red fruits with some lack ones underneath. Lively with graphite, mineral, tobacco and some leather. Not particularly tannic but does have some structure. Went really well with the beef. It's a shame this is too expensive to be a regular occasion wine as it would be perfect for that purpose. (93 points)
2019 Le Pianelle Al Posto dei Fiori Rosato - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (11/16/2020)
Almost exactly the same as the last bottle and equally exemplary. I need to have this around all the time. (92 points)
2013 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (11/17/2020)
Extremely lightly colored and trading on delicacy and finesse at 12% alcohol. The fruit reminds me of the sour cherries from my mom's tree as they smell of cherry and tartness at the same time. A bit of flowers peak through the pine and savory notes. The structure is in the background and fine but unwavering. A fine bead of chalky tannins and a lifted quality mark the wine (whole cluster maybe?). It'll be really interesting to follow this wine. These Colombera & Garella wines are trying to say something and I'm listening but do not yet fully understand. (91 points)
2012 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (11/18/2020)
Sappy and deeply fruited although the fruit never comes off as overripe in any way but more cool cherry pulp smashed on stones. Good acidity drives through the palate to the finish with tannin that are draped with fruit. It shows some floral notes and the finish has a bit of earth and chalky minerals. It may not be the most complex wine at this point, but what it does show, it shows in delicious, velvety waves that are fun on their own and suit pairing at the table. I'm glad no one else really likes these wines. This should age well for another decade or two but I'm going to continue plundering through these as the mood strikes me. (94 points)
2010 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (11/19/2020)
Another really nice showing from a 2010 Boillot. Very mineral and animale-sauvage inflected black cherry fruit. Deep and dark with licorice hints in the tilled earth with the firm structure noticeably relaxing with air. The acidity salivates the palate and helps it pair with food very well. If you have multiple bottles, I think this is worth checking in on now because I don't think it's far off being at a first plateau. (92 points)
2004 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (11/11/2020)
It's been more than 5 years since my last bottle of this and it has settled nicely into maturity with the sort of gentle bottle sweetness that only comes from time in the cellar. Cool herbal notes with damp forest scents and wafting dried cherry. Fully resolved and shaped more by the underlying acidity than detectable residual tannin. A lovely old dame that will quietly fade away. Drink up. (90 points)
2015 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d'Alba Superiore - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (11/12/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles. I'm not sure what more I can say vis a vis Roddolo. The wines tickle my lizard brain. I guess I could see how they might not be someone's cup of tea but I probably wouldn't have a lot in common with that person. (92 points)
2019 Morella Mezzarosa Salento IGT - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT (11/12/2020)
Bright and fresh if a bit non-distinct. This is definitely more of the thirst quenching variety of Rosato. (87 points)
NV Laherte Frères Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - France, Champagne (11/13/2020)
Taught and linear with apples and minerals. Chalky and driving on the palate and lean but not hollow. Very good, like everything I've had from Laherte, if not as visceral as some of their other wines. (90 points)
2015 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (11/13/2020)
A disappointing showing as this is my favorite Wachau producer from a very good site. Generally producer trumps vintage (while showing characteristics of the vintage) but this seems a little diffuse for a Knoll wine though in sticks the landing on some Riesling character. Hopefully my other bottles will show better. Revisit in a year or so hoping for the best. (90 points)
2014 Marguet Champagne Les Saints Remys - France, Champagne (11/15/2020)
My first time having this wine and I gather that it is 100% Pinot Noir. While it wasn't round and vinous in the way that Collin Champagnes can be, it wasn't lean or hard. Maybe lacked a bit of overall seamlessness to make a bigger impression but I was also cooking and not giving it all my attention. I have one other bottle that I'll try in a couple of years. (92 points)
2016 Alexandre Filaine Champagne Cuvée Spéciale - France, Champagne (11/15/2020)
Filaine is my current crush in Champagne. I don't know a ton about the wines but since I first tried them I've been smitten. It shows richness and generosity without weight and while there is a sense of chalk it doesn't come at the expense of a gentle mouthfeel and an ineffable digestible quality. (92 points)
2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (11/15/2020)
What makes this noticeably Rougeard is the silkiness of the palate. There is a texture that these wines have that no other wine in the Loire (or any other Cabernet family wine from anywhere) possess. The nose and palate are full of dark red fruits and tilled soil tones with top notes of pyrazine esters from several plant species. I found this more resolved than I was expecting and didn't have as much Poyeux limestone signature as I was expecting. Really beautifully crafted and impeccable but not as exciting as I was hoping for. (92 points)
2016 Ceritas Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (11/15/2020)
Deeply colored and bursting with black currant, plum and berry Cabernet fruit. Violets, a bit of licorice and graphite with a little underlying savory notes. Really well shaped if young and structured. The tannins are undeniable and solid but not aggressive. This should turn out to be a stellar Santa Cruz Cabernet. I think a few more years to integrate will take it to new heights. (93+ points)
NV Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe Stella di Campalto Choltempo Bella Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/15/2020)
I think that this is from the 2018 release but I don't know the vintage(s) of the underlying wines or much else about it (I guess I could do more internet searching, but [shrug]). My first bottle was horribly corked but this one is excellent. Really bright acids and red fruits with some lack ones underneath. Lively with graphite, mineral, tobacco and some leather. Not particularly tannic but does have some structure. Went really well with the beef. It's a shame this is too expensive to be a regular occasion wine as it would be perfect for that purpose. (93 points)
2019 Le Pianelle Al Posto dei Fiori Rosato - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (11/16/2020)
Almost exactly the same as the last bottle and equally exemplary. I need to have this around all the time. (92 points)
2013 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (11/17/2020)
Extremely lightly colored and trading on delicacy and finesse at 12% alcohol. The fruit reminds me of the sour cherries from my mom's tree as they smell of cherry and tartness at the same time. A bit of flowers peak through the pine and savory notes. The structure is in the background and fine but unwavering. A fine bead of chalky tannins and a lifted quality mark the wine (whole cluster maybe?). It'll be really interesting to follow this wine. These Colombera & Garella wines are trying to say something and I'm listening but do not yet fully understand. (91 points)
2012 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (11/18/2020)
Sappy and deeply fruited although the fruit never comes off as overripe in any way but more cool cherry pulp smashed on stones. Good acidity drives through the palate to the finish with tannin that are draped with fruit. It shows some floral notes and the finish has a bit of earth and chalky minerals. It may not be the most complex wine at this point, but what it does show, it shows in delicious, velvety waves that are fun on their own and suit pairing at the table. I'm glad no one else really likes these wines. This should age well for another decade or two but I'm going to continue plundering through these as the mood strikes me. (94 points)
2010 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (11/19/2020)
Another really nice showing from a 2010 Boillot. Very mineral and animale-sauvage inflected black cherry fruit. Deep and dark with licorice hints in the tilled earth with the firm structure noticeably relaxing with air. The acidity salivates the palate and helps it pair with food very well. If you have multiple bottles, I think this is worth checking in on now because I don't think it's far off being at a first plateau. (92 points)
