Levi Dalton
Levi Dalton
I happened to have three wines recently that were crafted by Gideon Beinstock of Renaissance winery in Yuba and his own Clos Saron. Thought I would share a bit about them.
1994 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon
Very good. One of the better California Cabernets I have had. Drinking nicely on this day and showing tertiary development. Nuanced aromatics and earthy, mineral notes that I really appreciated. There was a quality here that was reminiscent of braised greens and beets. The finished turned a little soft, belying an origin in California in a "softer" vintage, but more than once someone mentioned the word "Loire" while we were drinking this. If the bottle had been served a little colder, the finish might have seemed less like a sloppy kiss. I was told that this was Brother Gideon's first vintage at Renaissance.
1999 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon
Much more frankly fruity and primary than the '94, this suffered from being served after the '94. More of an emphasis on dark cassis fruit. Enjoyable enough, but lacking in the sort of nuance that was so enjoyable about the '94. Perhaps time will bring it forth. This tastes very young in the context of a vintage 10 years previous.
2004 Clos Saron "Heart of Stone" Syrah
My least favorite of this grouping. Dark fruit that doesn't seem to have any sort of mineral or other underpinning. Rather simple in comparison to some of the other wines drunk that evening. And unfortunately, pretty expensive. I could see many people who like California Syrah in general liking this one, though.
1994 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon
Very good. One of the better California Cabernets I have had. Drinking nicely on this day and showing tertiary development. Nuanced aromatics and earthy, mineral notes that I really appreciated. There was a quality here that was reminiscent of braised greens and beets. The finished turned a little soft, belying an origin in California in a "softer" vintage, but more than once someone mentioned the word "Loire" while we were drinking this. If the bottle had been served a little colder, the finish might have seemed less like a sloppy kiss. I was told that this was Brother Gideon's first vintage at Renaissance.
1999 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon
Much more frankly fruity and primary than the '94, this suffered from being served after the '94. More of an emphasis on dark cassis fruit. Enjoyable enough, but lacking in the sort of nuance that was so enjoyable about the '94. Perhaps time will bring it forth. This tastes very young in the context of a vintage 10 years previous.
2004 Clos Saron "Heart of Stone" Syrah
My least favorite of this grouping. Dark fruit that doesn't seem to have any sort of mineral or other underpinning. Rather simple in comparison to some of the other wines drunk that evening. And unfortunately, pretty expensive. I could see many people who like California Syrah in general liking this one, though.