Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
I have handwritten notes somewhere but Dale W and Steve P both published their comments so here they are. I remember it was a 'Grand Cru Jeebus' night with many legendary bottles present.
I am motivated to RTN this now because I remember, though neither Dale nor Steve mention it, that David shared a few further post-prandial drinks with a smaller number of us. He had obtained a liquor cabinet from the estate of the late philanthropist Doris Duke which included several treasure-worthy old bottles of chartreuse. Maybe I have to go find those notes, after all.
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Date: 29-Jun-2005 15:06
Author: Dale Williams, Dobbs Ferry
Subject: TN> Great wines at Bayard (g'bye David Wainwright)
Last night a group of 23 gathered at Bayard (on Hanover Square in the financial district of New York, New York) to say goodbye to David Wainwright. David just left Christie's wine auction department and is heading to London to study for his MW. Great group, great food from Bayard, great service (as far as I could tell every person got a pour of each wine- with 23 people making that happen with 750s was a miracle).
An assortment of hor d'oeuvres (quiches, canapes, etc) made the rounds as we gathered. There were a couple of bottles of :
1996 Bollinger Champagne
Young, but very tasty. Biscuits and hazelnuts over a full but crisp body. B+
As we sat down, we were served :
1996 Trimbach "Reserve Personelle" Pinot Gris (magnum)
This didn't do a lot for me, but then I tend to prefer Alsace PG as a dessert wine. Apple fruit, some flowers and smoke. B-/C+
1990 Pol Roger "Cuvee 2000" Champagne (magnum)
Kind of a funny smoky note - burnt toast with butter. But this grew on me (my neighbor Matt had the opposite reaction, liking it less). B
As the white Burgs started , the first course arrived (Poached lobster with a Caribbean fruit salsa and mache)
1992 Ramonet "Les Ruchottes" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
Earth and spice on the nose, still lively with good acidity. B+
2000 Verget Corton-Charlemagne
Hard to see anything beyond oak. B-
1992 Dom. Leflaive "Les Pucelles " Puligny-Montrachet 1er
This and the Ramonet were fine with the lobster. Classy, refined, deep without being heavy. Matt points out that it has a sense of wood but without a buttery vanilla oak thing. I like a lot (others near me disagreed). B+/A-
1997 Michel Niellon Batard-Montrachet
I know some people think the '97-present era isn't the strongest for Niellon ,but for my tastes you can't tell from this one. Smoke and mineral over citrus and tropical fruit. A-
1999 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat "Les Clos" Chablis GC (magnum)
I found this disappointing. Not as crisp as I would have liked, and with a flatness that didn't thrill me. Maybe this is closed but it seemed surprisingly mature and open to me, just flat. C+/B-
1999 Ponsot Clos de la Roche
This seemed a bit thin. I think this is (like several '99s I've tried) just shut down. I'd give it a B- last night, but think it's probably better than that.
About this time the foie gras arrived (seared and a cold terrine)
1993 Comte Armand "Clos des Epeneaux" Pommard 1er(magnum)
Young, with spice and dark fruit in a muscular package. Pretty acidic, but not distractingly so. Other liked much less. B+/A-
1993 Pousse d'Or "60 Ouvrees -Caillerets" Volnay 1er
More fruit driven, mostly bitter cherry. B
1991 Leroy Richebourg
There's some toast and a little vanilla, but great concentration. Extracted without being cartoonish, there's a real sense of earth under the fruit. A
1985 Cos d'Estournel (magnum)
Sweet fruit, some tannins. Quite good. B+
Next was a blind bottle. Resolved tannins, sweet mature red fruit and forest floor. Pleasant but uncompelling. Others guessed mature Barolo and indeed it had a Nebbiolo sense to it. But turns out it's a Burg, a 1987 Engel that I never noted the vineyard. B-
1983 La Mission Haut-Brion
My contribution - I was a little worried how it would show with all these big boys. Actually, pretty well. Mature but not fading, dark fruit with some cedar and tobacco. Earthy and pure. A-
1983 Mouton-Rothschild
More tobacco and light cassis fruit, but this didn't wow me. B-
By this point we were on the braised Lamb Shank with ratatouille
1983 Margaux
Pretty good if not the show-stopper of it's rep. B/B+
1982 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet
Fading a bit, with a bit of eucalyptus over the quiet blackcurrant and blackcherry fruit. Nice, though. B
1978 Ducru-Beaucaillou
Resolved tannins, earth, cassis fruit. B
1975 Palmer
I was never a Palmer fan (not even the '83) until trying the '75 twice over last year (and the '99). But was wowwed on both previous occasions. This had the same high-toned nose, but on the palate lacked the depth of fruit of the previous ones I'd tried. B/B-
1975 Margaux
Still rather tannic, with an (attractive to me) funky earthy nose. But that kind of carries over to the palate in a way that's less attractive. B-
1975 Lafite-Rothschild
More integrated tannins, with sweet red currants and a touch of cigarbox. B+
1964 Haut-Brion
Now this was lovely. Elegant without being the least bit light, a potpourri of earthy aromas with plenty of fruit hanging in there. A
1966 Mouton-Rothschild
Nice nose of cassis and coffee , but a bit blah on the palate with a short finish. B-
A cheese course arrived along with:
1978 Giacosa Santa Stefano Barbaresco
I had thought the '64 Haut-Brion was surely my wine of the night, but this trumped it. Young, aromatic, balanced.My WOTN. A+
1973 Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Rioja Gran Reserva
I really couldn't get a handle on this one. Some sweet oak, a little red fruit. Others liked more. B-/C+
1964 Conterno Barolo
This seemed dead (except for some volatile acid). Others sat it aside and said it came back, too bad I didn't hold onto this George Romero wine. But what I tasted, D
1964 Chapoutier Hermitage
Red fruits and herbs, orange blossoms and hint of grilled meat. Excellent. A/A-
1993 Quinterelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico
Lush and almost Port-like, deep red fruit with an intriguing bitter edge. Great with the blue (Roaring 40s, which David says is the only great Australian cheese). A-/B+
There was a dessert of apricot tart and almond ice cream,but as I don't eat dessert I was happy to still have some Roaring 40s for the ports:
1983 Fonseca VP
Medium-bodied and surprisingly mature. B
1980 Taylor-Fladgate VP
Also mature, very sweet, but the alcohol sticks out a bit much for me. B-
1966 Croft VP (magnum)
More chocolate-y than the others.Some say this isn't a great bottle, but I liked best of the Ports. B+
1979 Nederberg Edelkeur (South Africa )
I'm told this is Chenin, though doesn't really seem like it to me. Dark with a little botrytis. Eh. B-
1989 La Tour Blanche
Light honied fruit, not bad. B/B-
1967 Gilette Creme de Tete Sauternes
Dammit! This is lightly corked, and I can't get past that. Too bad, as it seems very rich and ripe underneath.
1953 Doisy Daene
Good, young, some botrytis over surprisingly vivid coconut notes. B+
1862 Lomelino Rare Old Malmsey
I'm not a judge of old Madiera, I just don't encounter them much. But I usually like, and this is no exception. Caramel and toffee, really nice. B+/A-
Incredible evening, with very generous people digging deep into their cellars. Good to see some old friends and meet a few new people. Best of luck David!
Dale
-----
Date: 29-Jun-2005 22:50
Author: Steve Plotnicki
Subject: Let's See.........
1996 Bollinger Champagne - Unimpressed by this
1996 Trimbach "Reserve Personelle" Pinot Gris (magnum)- Acceptable
1990 Pol Roger "Cuvee 2000" Champagne (magnum)- Didn't love it
1992 Ramonet "Les Ruchottes" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er - Too exotic. Every time I have this wine it is disapppointing
2000 Verget Corton-Charlemagne - Undrinkable
1992 Dom. Leflaive "Les Pucelles " Puligny-Montrachet 1er - Complete dreck
1997 Michel Niellon Batard-Montrachet - Lovely mouthfeel and obvivously classy juice. But not worth drinking IMO
1999 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat "Les Clos" Chablis GC (magnum)- Too low on acid. John Gilman brought the wine and he was trying to sell me on it as getting better with air but I wasn't buying it.
1999 Ponsot Clos de la Roche - One of the worst 99's I've had in this class of wine.
1993 Comte Armand "Clos des Epeneaux" Pommard 1er(magnum)- Unimpressive.
1993 Pousse d'Or "60 Ouvrees -Caillerets" Volnay 1er - Finally some real wine though nothing unbelievable. But at least it was Burgundy
1991 Leroy Richebourg - I loved this. A little bit coarse as some '91's can be. But the flavor was beautiful.
1985 Cos d'Estournel (magnum)- Not one of the better '85's I've had. I'll stick with Haut Brion.
1987 Engel that I never noted the vineyard - I thought this was Grand-Echezeaux. Nothing special. It was funny how everyone was guesing the wrong region and grape.
1983 La Mission Haut-Brion - I quite liked this. I thought it was the second best Bordeaux of the evening.
1983 Mouton-Rothschild - Glad I do not own any of this
1983 Margaux - I have yet to be wowed by this wine
1982 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet - Old bones. Not worth drinking. I dumped it.
1978 Ducru-Beaucaillou - Pleasant. I wouldn't run out to buy any but it was enjoyable.
1975 Palmer - Didn't make any impact on me.
1975 Margaux - Same as above
1975 Lafite-Rothschild - Just not a fan of this vintage
1964 Haut-Brion - I brought this bottle. It's the best showing I've had of the wine which is usually acidic. But this was mellow and complex.
1966 Mouton-Rothschild - I'll second blah.
1978 Giacosa Santa Stefano Barbaresco - I had a small pour of this and it never really opened up in my glass. The others were all raving about it. I can believe it.
1973 Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Rioja Gran Reserva - I thought this a bit young. Very smooth mouthfeel.
1964 Conterno Barolo - Another wine from my cellar. It was DOA except for Gilman making me pour it. Then after about 15 minutes it awoke for a few last breaths of delicious Barolo. But then it was dead again.
1964 Chapoutier Hermitage - Very nice but my plate was starting to get tired. It was very light in color.
1993 Quinterelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico - Stupendous
I tasted the ports and dessert wines, but I couldn't really taste by that point in time so I have no comment.
I am motivated to RTN this now because I remember, though neither Dale nor Steve mention it, that David shared a few further post-prandial drinks with a smaller number of us. He had obtained a liquor cabinet from the estate of the late philanthropist Doris Duke which included several treasure-worthy old bottles of chartreuse. Maybe I have to go find those notes, after all.
-----
Date: 29-Jun-2005 15:06
Author: Dale Williams, Dobbs Ferry
Subject: TN> Great wines at Bayard (g'bye David Wainwright)
Last night a group of 23 gathered at Bayard (on Hanover Square in the financial district of New York, New York) to say goodbye to David Wainwright. David just left Christie's wine auction department and is heading to London to study for his MW. Great group, great food from Bayard, great service (as far as I could tell every person got a pour of each wine- with 23 people making that happen with 750s was a miracle).
An assortment of hor d'oeuvres (quiches, canapes, etc) made the rounds as we gathered. There were a couple of bottles of :
1996 Bollinger Champagne
Young, but very tasty. Biscuits and hazelnuts over a full but crisp body. B+
As we sat down, we were served :
1996 Trimbach "Reserve Personelle" Pinot Gris (magnum)
This didn't do a lot for me, but then I tend to prefer Alsace PG as a dessert wine. Apple fruit, some flowers and smoke. B-/C+
1990 Pol Roger "Cuvee 2000" Champagne (magnum)
Kind of a funny smoky note - burnt toast with butter. But this grew on me (my neighbor Matt had the opposite reaction, liking it less). B
As the white Burgs started , the first course arrived (Poached lobster with a Caribbean fruit salsa and mache)
1992 Ramonet "Les Ruchottes" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
Earth and spice on the nose, still lively with good acidity. B+
2000 Verget Corton-Charlemagne
Hard to see anything beyond oak. B-
1992 Dom. Leflaive "Les Pucelles " Puligny-Montrachet 1er
This and the Ramonet were fine with the lobster. Classy, refined, deep without being heavy. Matt points out that it has a sense of wood but without a buttery vanilla oak thing. I like a lot (others near me disagreed). B+/A-
1997 Michel Niellon Batard-Montrachet
I know some people think the '97-present era isn't the strongest for Niellon ,but for my tastes you can't tell from this one. Smoke and mineral over citrus and tropical fruit. A-
1999 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat "Les Clos" Chablis GC (magnum)
I found this disappointing. Not as crisp as I would have liked, and with a flatness that didn't thrill me. Maybe this is closed but it seemed surprisingly mature and open to me, just flat. C+/B-
1999 Ponsot Clos de la Roche
This seemed a bit thin. I think this is (like several '99s I've tried) just shut down. I'd give it a B- last night, but think it's probably better than that.
About this time the foie gras arrived (seared and a cold terrine)
1993 Comte Armand "Clos des Epeneaux" Pommard 1er(magnum)
Young, with spice and dark fruit in a muscular package. Pretty acidic, but not distractingly so. Other liked much less. B+/A-
1993 Pousse d'Or "60 Ouvrees -Caillerets" Volnay 1er
More fruit driven, mostly bitter cherry. B
1991 Leroy Richebourg
There's some toast and a little vanilla, but great concentration. Extracted without being cartoonish, there's a real sense of earth under the fruit. A
1985 Cos d'Estournel (magnum)
Sweet fruit, some tannins. Quite good. B+
Next was a blind bottle. Resolved tannins, sweet mature red fruit and forest floor. Pleasant but uncompelling. Others guessed mature Barolo and indeed it had a Nebbiolo sense to it. But turns out it's a Burg, a 1987 Engel that I never noted the vineyard. B-
1983 La Mission Haut-Brion
My contribution - I was a little worried how it would show with all these big boys. Actually, pretty well. Mature but not fading, dark fruit with some cedar and tobacco. Earthy and pure. A-
1983 Mouton-Rothschild
More tobacco and light cassis fruit, but this didn't wow me. B-
By this point we were on the braised Lamb Shank with ratatouille
1983 Margaux
Pretty good if not the show-stopper of it's rep. B/B+
1982 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet
Fading a bit, with a bit of eucalyptus over the quiet blackcurrant and blackcherry fruit. Nice, though. B
1978 Ducru-Beaucaillou
Resolved tannins, earth, cassis fruit. B
1975 Palmer
I was never a Palmer fan (not even the '83) until trying the '75 twice over last year (and the '99). But was wowwed on both previous occasions. This had the same high-toned nose, but on the palate lacked the depth of fruit of the previous ones I'd tried. B/B-
1975 Margaux
Still rather tannic, with an (attractive to me) funky earthy nose. But that kind of carries over to the palate in a way that's less attractive. B-
1975 Lafite-Rothschild
More integrated tannins, with sweet red currants and a touch of cigarbox. B+
1964 Haut-Brion
Now this was lovely. Elegant without being the least bit light, a potpourri of earthy aromas with plenty of fruit hanging in there. A
1966 Mouton-Rothschild
Nice nose of cassis and coffee , but a bit blah on the palate with a short finish. B-
A cheese course arrived along with:
1978 Giacosa Santa Stefano Barbaresco
I had thought the '64 Haut-Brion was surely my wine of the night, but this trumped it. Young, aromatic, balanced.My WOTN. A+
1973 Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Rioja Gran Reserva
I really couldn't get a handle on this one. Some sweet oak, a little red fruit. Others liked more. B-/C+
1964 Conterno Barolo
This seemed dead (except for some volatile acid). Others sat it aside and said it came back, too bad I didn't hold onto this George Romero wine. But what I tasted, D
1964 Chapoutier Hermitage
Red fruits and herbs, orange blossoms and hint of grilled meat. Excellent. A/A-
1993 Quinterelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico
Lush and almost Port-like, deep red fruit with an intriguing bitter edge. Great with the blue (Roaring 40s, which David says is the only great Australian cheese). A-/B+
There was a dessert of apricot tart and almond ice cream,but as I don't eat dessert I was happy to still have some Roaring 40s for the ports:
1983 Fonseca VP
Medium-bodied and surprisingly mature. B
1980 Taylor-Fladgate VP
Also mature, very sweet, but the alcohol sticks out a bit much for me. B-
1966 Croft VP (magnum)
More chocolate-y than the others.Some say this isn't a great bottle, but I liked best of the Ports. B+
1979 Nederberg Edelkeur (South Africa )
I'm told this is Chenin, though doesn't really seem like it to me. Dark with a little botrytis. Eh. B-
1989 La Tour Blanche
Light honied fruit, not bad. B/B-
1967 Gilette Creme de Tete Sauternes
Dammit! This is lightly corked, and I can't get past that. Too bad, as it seems very rich and ripe underneath.
1953 Doisy Daene
Good, young, some botrytis over surprisingly vivid coconut notes. B+
1862 Lomelino Rare Old Malmsey
I'm not a judge of old Madiera, I just don't encounter them much. But I usually like, and this is no exception. Caramel and toffee, really nice. B+/A-
Incredible evening, with very generous people digging deep into their cellars. Good to see some old friends and meet a few new people. Best of luck David!
Dale
-----
Date: 29-Jun-2005 22:50
Author: Steve Plotnicki
Subject: Let's See.........
1996 Bollinger Champagne - Unimpressed by this
1996 Trimbach "Reserve Personelle" Pinot Gris (magnum)- Acceptable
1990 Pol Roger "Cuvee 2000" Champagne (magnum)- Didn't love it
1992 Ramonet "Les Ruchottes" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er - Too exotic. Every time I have this wine it is disapppointing
2000 Verget Corton-Charlemagne - Undrinkable
1992 Dom. Leflaive "Les Pucelles " Puligny-Montrachet 1er - Complete dreck
1997 Michel Niellon Batard-Montrachet - Lovely mouthfeel and obvivously classy juice. But not worth drinking IMO
1999 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat "Les Clos" Chablis GC (magnum)- Too low on acid. John Gilman brought the wine and he was trying to sell me on it as getting better with air but I wasn't buying it.
1999 Ponsot Clos de la Roche - One of the worst 99's I've had in this class of wine.
1993 Comte Armand "Clos des Epeneaux" Pommard 1er(magnum)- Unimpressive.
1993 Pousse d'Or "60 Ouvrees -Caillerets" Volnay 1er - Finally some real wine though nothing unbelievable. But at least it was Burgundy
1991 Leroy Richebourg - I loved this. A little bit coarse as some '91's can be. But the flavor was beautiful.
1985 Cos d'Estournel (magnum)- Not one of the better '85's I've had. I'll stick with Haut Brion.
1987 Engel that I never noted the vineyard - I thought this was Grand-Echezeaux. Nothing special. It was funny how everyone was guesing the wrong region and grape.
1983 La Mission Haut-Brion - I quite liked this. I thought it was the second best Bordeaux of the evening.
1983 Mouton-Rothschild - Glad I do not own any of this
1983 Margaux - I have yet to be wowed by this wine
1982 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet - Old bones. Not worth drinking. I dumped it.
1978 Ducru-Beaucaillou - Pleasant. I wouldn't run out to buy any but it was enjoyable.
1975 Palmer - Didn't make any impact on me.
1975 Margaux - Same as above
1975 Lafite-Rothschild - Just not a fan of this vintage
1964 Haut-Brion - I brought this bottle. It's the best showing I've had of the wine which is usually acidic. But this was mellow and complex.
1966 Mouton-Rothschild - I'll second blah.
1978 Giacosa Santa Stefano Barbaresco - I had a small pour of this and it never really opened up in my glass. The others were all raving about it. I can believe it.
1973 Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Rioja Gran Reserva - I thought this a bit young. Very smooth mouthfeel.
1964 Conterno Barolo - Another wine from my cellar. It was DOA except for Gilman making me pour it. Then after about 15 minutes it awoke for a few last breaths of delicious Barolo. But then it was dead again.
1964 Chapoutier Hermitage - Very nice but my plate was starting to get tired. It was very light in color.
1993 Quinterelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico - Stupendous
I tasted the ports and dessert wines, but I couldn't really taste by that point in time so I have no comment.