Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 5-26-21
2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu - it has taken every minute of 19 years to become this - and this is good. But along the way, it never was. I like being able to follow wines over time, which is why I almost always buy multiple bottles. But waiting two decades is too long. I’m glad I had the chance and it’s a good lesson.
Not the same verve and integration on day two.
2005 Baudry, Chinon La Croix Boissee - distinct mustard seed note on the nose, quite rich and full but balanced at all times, chalky fine tannins, beautiful fruit with its slight herbal edge that keeps it fresh and from being monolithic; a wine of breeding. However, as good as this was, every bottle previous (5) wasn’t - if you can wait 16 years, buy it, but I won’t again.
2009 Baudry, Chinon La Croix Boissee - very similar to the ‘05 with a bit less integration and tannin and not quite the richness - still very good.
2015 Vincent, Pinot Noir Zenith Vineyard - the Eola Hills are an excellent place to grow Pinot and while I usually prefer the Ribbon Ridge AVA, this wine is an exception.
It starts out quietly in the glass, gradually revealing its diverse scents over the evening. Likewise in the mouth, a little at a time. Subtlety, thy name is Vincent. By the end of the bottle both Diane and I are giving each other the “look” - the one that says, more than anything else, discovery! I will always enjoy good Burgundy and I have learned to enjoy a handful of CA Pinots, but this is my new love.
A masterpiece.
(Aside: Most evenings, Diane cooks and I pick the wine. Recently however, Diane has occasionally taken to asking, “is Vince coming to dinner?” We both know what she means and, sure enough, “he” often shows up.)
2001 Knoll, Riesling Ried Schutt Smaragd - smells as though it were sweet but is bone dry, light copper color with deep honeyed fruit, balancing acidity, the texture and overall impression of power. I have followed a case of this since release and this is my last bottle; IMO it was better 5 years ago. But still, an exceptional wine even now.
2007 Ridge Montebello - while the oak is not overwhelming it still obscures both the aromas and flavors of the fruit. What is discernible is not over done and might have been excellent we’re it not for the wood patina.
2016 Fort Ross, Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard - all by itself, a nicely svelte Pinot but with other red wines on the table or with food, it is lost in the shuffle. Thin.
2018 Hanzell, Pinot Noir Sebella - a quiet nose, more substance than the Fort Ross but pedestrian in the final analysis; at least at the moment.
2017 Harrington, Syrah McAvoy Ranch - the characteristic olive aroma is there and the fruit is solid but the tannins are in charge. Needs a year or two to integrate.
2011 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - fully resolved, little tannin but a lightweight, elegant wine that keeps a lovely core of complexity alive. Drink soon.
1997 Viader - volatile but drinkable. Not my fav.
2014 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vnyd. - from the Ribbon Ridge AVA and it carries the signature structure of that place in a lovely, nuanced and complex package that is perfectly balanced. What a lovely wine. Opened with friends who were equally impressed. Oh my!
1978 Phelps, Johannisberg Riesling (375) - medium brown, sweet yet not cloying but pretty much past it.
2015 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vnyd. Tardive - the most intensely aromatic of the Vincent wines I’ve tried; much like a Barthod that’s open (how about that for rara avis). Chalky tannins, black fruit dominant, remarkable clarity and, as it opens, complexity. Of course I am into this too early but it is superb nonetheless. I have finally figured out what it is about Vincent wines - symmetry. They are of a piece, no matter how layered or nuanced; it’s like a choir singing the same song but with bass, baritone, tenor, alto and soprano all on the same page.
In this particular case, the composer is Bach.
Glorious!
2012 Cowan Cellars, Isa - 100% skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc aged in very old French barrels for 28 months; copper colored; its aroma bursts into the air upon opening - tangerine skin, floral and a hint of citrus; light but chalky tannins, flavors that follow the nose and a freshness that belies its elevage. Not even a hint of oxidation despite the color. This should last twenty years easily yet continue to develop the whole time - the difference from bottling to now is significant.
I loved experimenting with skin-fermented whites for a decade - I think this is the most compelling of the lot.
2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - closed at first but after an hour, a savory, bright, supple Chablis with complexity and precision. I have no doubt the aging will be a good thing but I love it now.
2017 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly Rose - pure joy! Has not lost a step in four years and is an intense , beautiful expression of Gamay in its pink period. Would stand with Tempier Rose were it beside it on the table. Lovely.
2020 Vajra, Rosa Bella - not a bad wine but insipid next to the ESJ.
2002 Eno, Pinot Noir Presumed Innocent - past prime; not dead but tasting more brown than red.
2018 Ladd Cellars, Chardonnay Cuvée Voile - sous voile chard that hits all the right notes. Presence in the mouth, complexity, savory but never loses its fruit underpinnings. Impressive with lots of development to come.
2012 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Fenaughty Vnyd. - sous bois meatiness, violets, velvet textures but excellent structure. A wild, sauvage thing that changes as it pleases and invites you along for the ride. Buckle up.
2018 Sandlands, Cinsault - I’m told this is from Bechthold vineyard but the label does not indicate; starts pretty and light but gains breadth with air. A yummy wine that is typical to the grape and place. Nice.
2009 Kenneth Folk, Negrette Calleri Vineyard - big alcohol, big wine; Negrette on steroids. Not a bad wine but not for me.
2018 Harrington, Misteri Suma Kaw Vnyd. - supposedly Nerello Mascalese but after genetic testing, a completely unknown variety. Huge tannins in a relatively lightweight wine and right now, that combination isn’t working. In time, who knows . . . it’s a mystery.
Best, jim
2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu - it has taken every minute of 19 years to become this - and this is good. But along the way, it never was. I like being able to follow wines over time, which is why I almost always buy multiple bottles. But waiting two decades is too long. I’m glad I had the chance and it’s a good lesson.
Not the same verve and integration on day two.
2005 Baudry, Chinon La Croix Boissee - distinct mustard seed note on the nose, quite rich and full but balanced at all times, chalky fine tannins, beautiful fruit with its slight herbal edge that keeps it fresh and from being monolithic; a wine of breeding. However, as good as this was, every bottle previous (5) wasn’t - if you can wait 16 years, buy it, but I won’t again.
2009 Baudry, Chinon La Croix Boissee - very similar to the ‘05 with a bit less integration and tannin and not quite the richness - still very good.
2015 Vincent, Pinot Noir Zenith Vineyard - the Eola Hills are an excellent place to grow Pinot and while I usually prefer the Ribbon Ridge AVA, this wine is an exception.
It starts out quietly in the glass, gradually revealing its diverse scents over the evening. Likewise in the mouth, a little at a time. Subtlety, thy name is Vincent. By the end of the bottle both Diane and I are giving each other the “look” - the one that says, more than anything else, discovery! I will always enjoy good Burgundy and I have learned to enjoy a handful of CA Pinots, but this is my new love.
A masterpiece.
(Aside: Most evenings, Diane cooks and I pick the wine. Recently however, Diane has occasionally taken to asking, “is Vince coming to dinner?” We both know what she means and, sure enough, “he” often shows up.)
2001 Knoll, Riesling Ried Schutt Smaragd - smells as though it were sweet but is bone dry, light copper color with deep honeyed fruit, balancing acidity, the texture and overall impression of power. I have followed a case of this since release and this is my last bottle; IMO it was better 5 years ago. But still, an exceptional wine even now.
2007 Ridge Montebello - while the oak is not overwhelming it still obscures both the aromas and flavors of the fruit. What is discernible is not over done and might have been excellent we’re it not for the wood patina.
2016 Fort Ross, Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard - all by itself, a nicely svelte Pinot but with other red wines on the table or with food, it is lost in the shuffle. Thin.
2018 Hanzell, Pinot Noir Sebella - a quiet nose, more substance than the Fort Ross but pedestrian in the final analysis; at least at the moment.
2017 Harrington, Syrah McAvoy Ranch - the characteristic olive aroma is there and the fruit is solid but the tannins are in charge. Needs a year or two to integrate.
2011 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - fully resolved, little tannin but a lightweight, elegant wine that keeps a lovely core of complexity alive. Drink soon.
1997 Viader - volatile but drinkable. Not my fav.
2014 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vnyd. - from the Ribbon Ridge AVA and it carries the signature structure of that place in a lovely, nuanced and complex package that is perfectly balanced. What a lovely wine. Opened with friends who were equally impressed. Oh my!
1978 Phelps, Johannisberg Riesling (375) - medium brown, sweet yet not cloying but pretty much past it.
2015 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vnyd. Tardive - the most intensely aromatic of the Vincent wines I’ve tried; much like a Barthod that’s open (how about that for rara avis). Chalky tannins, black fruit dominant, remarkable clarity and, as it opens, complexity. Of course I am into this too early but it is superb nonetheless. I have finally figured out what it is about Vincent wines - symmetry. They are of a piece, no matter how layered or nuanced; it’s like a choir singing the same song but with bass, baritone, tenor, alto and soprano all on the same page.
In this particular case, the composer is Bach.
Glorious!
2012 Cowan Cellars, Isa - 100% skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc aged in very old French barrels for 28 months; copper colored; its aroma bursts into the air upon opening - tangerine skin, floral and a hint of citrus; light but chalky tannins, flavors that follow the nose and a freshness that belies its elevage. Not even a hint of oxidation despite the color. This should last twenty years easily yet continue to develop the whole time - the difference from bottling to now is significant.
I loved experimenting with skin-fermented whites for a decade - I think this is the most compelling of the lot.
2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - closed at first but after an hour, a savory, bright, supple Chablis with complexity and precision. I have no doubt the aging will be a good thing but I love it now.
2017 Edmunds St. John, Bone Jolly Rose - pure joy! Has not lost a step in four years and is an intense , beautiful expression of Gamay in its pink period. Would stand with Tempier Rose were it beside it on the table. Lovely.
2020 Vajra, Rosa Bella - not a bad wine but insipid next to the ESJ.
2002 Eno, Pinot Noir Presumed Innocent - past prime; not dead but tasting more brown than red.
2018 Ladd Cellars, Chardonnay Cuvée Voile - sous voile chard that hits all the right notes. Presence in the mouth, complexity, savory but never loses its fruit underpinnings. Impressive with lots of development to come.
2012 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Fenaughty Vnyd. - sous bois meatiness, violets, velvet textures but excellent structure. A wild, sauvage thing that changes as it pleases and invites you along for the ride. Buckle up.
2018 Sandlands, Cinsault - I’m told this is from Bechthold vineyard but the label does not indicate; starts pretty and light but gains breadth with air. A yummy wine that is typical to the grape and place. Nice.
2009 Kenneth Folk, Negrette Calleri Vineyard - big alcohol, big wine; Negrette on steroids. Not a bad wine but not for me.
2018 Harrington, Misteri Suma Kaw Vnyd. - supposedly Nerello Mascalese but after genetic testing, a completely unknown variety. Huge tannins in a relatively lightweight wine and right now, that combination isn’t working. In time, who knows . . . it’s a mystery.
Best, jim
