TN: The Triumphant Return to Wu's Wonton (June 11, 2021)

[Jeff Grossman]

attendees: Brad, Paul J, John T, Jay, Jeff

John Tomasso is visiting so we, um, er...

We say we'll all go -- at the same time -- to a take-out place that also does sit-down.

For eating, I mean.

"Dining."

Whatever it is that you've been doing with your time, this is my first dinner inside a restaurant in 13 months.

I'm rusty but it's coming back to me.

As far as Wu's Wonton King goes, hardly anything has changed. There are fewer tables, but the good dishes are still the good dishes, everything else is eh. You still have to ask for a glass of water.

Bacchus was reasonably happy to see us, though:

Pepiere, Dom. de la 2014 Muscadet "Clos des Briords", Cuvee VV - tangy, all yellow-fruity, waxy and gorgeous, not the heft of a good white burgundy but all the class; Day 3, thinning a bit, more lemon than pit fruit

Taittinger 2006 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, "Comtes de Champagne" - beautiful, crisp, much more delicate than the muscadet, long elegant finish, the muscadet is great but it's a peasant wine... this is what the people in the nice house are drinking

Ch. La Dominique 1982 St-Emilion Grand Cru Classe - Corked.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese - Erste Lage, 7.5%, 3 561 077 78 08, beautiful, medium body with a subtle creaminess, not showing much sweetness, acidity is a little showy but is well-balanced, moreish

Chave 2002 Hermitage Rouge - robust but a little stiff and simple, straight-up and foursquare, terrible vintage so not a bad performance (but no need to repeat soon, either)

Arcadian 2005 Pinot Noir "Hommage a Max" - 14.1%, rather mild, perhaps in a quiet phase?

Birichino 2019 Carignane, Montague Vineyard - 12.5%, another nice wine from Birichino: this one is rather more red-fruited, some dirt, and old vines sappiness

Cantalupo 2006 Ghemme "Collis Breclamae" - a great showing, cranberry with a hint of raspberry, crisp acidity and airy body, a champion at the table for working with the food instead of competing with it for my attention

Dom. George Vernay 2017 St-Joseph "Terres d'Encre" - beautiful nose, medium weight or lighter, textbook St-Joseph, a whiff of orange peel, amazing purity, completely drinkable, wow

Foreau (Dom. du Clos Naudin) 2009 Vouvray Demi-Sec - 13.5%, oh my: slightly honeyed, good acidity, sweetness is forward but not excessive, still very youthful but somehow with all the bumptious edges smoothed away

Pinon 2008 Vouvray Moelleux - 11.5%, lighter in color and weight than the Foreau, this is just as enjoyable but in a trimmer package

Pictures by Brad, of course!

 

[Jonathan Loesberg]

I'm having a problem with this phrase: the muscadet is great but it's a peasant wine. I guess I sort of know what you mean, but if it's great (even in the colloquial sense of really good), surely it's more than just pleasant. I really like muscadet and I also think that there are wines that are more--well-distinguished, and then I think that that's just classist and then I think that some classes are there for a reason and then I just give the whole thing up. So maybe I shouldn't get persnickety about your phrase, but still...

 

[MLipton]

Jeff, I know exactly what you mean about your first return to restaurant dining. I had a distinct sense of unease when we first sat down at a restaurant again. Warmer weather has meant that we’ve dined al fresco a few times now, but still only once in an interior space. I get a bit twitchy still being indoors in public with no mask on.

Mark Lipton

 

[Pavel Tchichikov]

originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I'm having a problem with this phrase: the muscadet is great but it's a peasant wine. I guess I sort of know what you mean, but if it's great (even in the colloquial sense of really good), surely it's more than just pleasant.

another facet to this - I am trying to think of anything I'd want to order at Wu's with '14 Briords, and coming up empty.

 

[Brad Kane]

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I'm having a problem with this phrase: the muscadet is great but it's a peasant wine. I guess I sort of know what you mean, but if it's great (even in the colloquial sense of really good), surely it's more than just pleasant.

another facet to this - I am trying to think of anything I'd want to order at Wu's with '14 Briords, and coming up empty.

Think of it as a starter to whet the palate, though it does work with that great chive, squid and silver anchovy dish.

 

[Brad Kane]

Thanks for the recap, Jeff. So nice to see you, Jay and Paul again and, of course, or California visitor!

I think we're pretty much in agreement on the wines of the night. I really liked the Pinon. Funny thing is, I had the exact bottle in my hand just a few hours earlier, but figured I'd wait until Don and Jayson were also wish us so we could toast our dearly departed Francois.

The Foreau was delicious and had shed the baby fat and was showing more structure and development. Miles to go. I didn't get any orange notes from the Vernay, but found it full of pure blue fruit, loads of violets and black pepper. Just beautiful, unadulterated Syrah. Loved the Briords and also enjoyed the von Kesselstatt and the Birichino. If you have the '02 Chave,it's perfectly fine, but it's an easy sell given current market prices.

 

[Jeff Grossman]

Follow-up on the Birichino Carignane: it developed a bit more flavor intensity over the next couple of days, essentially a scratchy earthy red. I can see that the grape is not a star but can do a star turn sometimes. The label says there were 3 barrels of it in 2019.

 

[Karen Goetz]

Nice notes, Jeff, thanks!

I think I have one Foreau 2002 in my cellar. It always seems to hide and I'm curious how it might be right now, given your notes. Will post if I can find the damn thing.