2002 Chateau St. Julien, Bordeaux

Ian Fitzsimmons

Ian Fitzsimmons
I stopped buying Bordeaux in 2002, with one or two exceptions: something about the wines doesn't usually hold my attention, and the 'Chanel-ing' of the cru classes as luxury life-style accessories is a turn-off. I bought a bunch of 2002, though, partly because you could get really good futures pricing, because he-who-shall-not-be-named didn't review the region's wines that year.

Anyway, the two bottles of this wine I've opened over the last two years have been among my favorite Bordeaux of all time: satisfying weight, density, texture; tannins very nicely proportioned; actual fruit-derived flavors - creme de cassis with a hint of iodine - slightly high-toned and 'sinister,' as the good cardinal would have it.

A pleasant surprise - though I'd say, overall, most of my 2002s have turned out well. Mostly what I have left is Leoville Barton, which needs another 5-10 years, IMHO, and a few bottles of Haut-Bailly, which, I think, just started hitting its stride about a year ago.
 
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