TN: Vinum Visita (Sept. 5, 2021)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don+Melissa, Jay, Jayson, Jeff+Jim, Lisa, Marc+Sara

"Never follow guava souffle with baby eels."

Truer words have ne'er been spoken.

But before there was guava souffle - certainly made with guava puree and there was likely some milk in it so really guava purée soufflé au lait - there were other foods laid out on the tables on the patio of Jay's condo building:
- gougeres (always)
- cheeses, pate, saucisson
- several loaves
- several fishes: baby eels in garlic sauce, anchovies, mackerel, sardines
- two bries en croutes (one stuffed with chanterelles, one stuffed with pine nuts, basil, and tomato bruschetta spread)
- Zucchini Parmigiana di Roosevelt Island (almost all locally-grown ingredients)
- Filipino roast pork shoulder with 5 dipping sauces
- three beautiful salads: Farro, Greek, Caesar

...and, of course, guava souffle, with and without chocolate.

A few raindrops tested our resolve but they were few and we were voracious, and so we snatched a lovely afternoon and evening from the very jaws of, um, er, desultory sprinkles.

And there was wine:

Thomas-Labaille 2019 Sancerre "Les Monts Damnes" Chavignol "Cuvee Buster" - 14.5% (eek) but does not show it, in fact it's kinda light, recognizably Sancerre, I can keep drinking this

Lopez de Heredia 1981 Rioja Blanco GR "Vina Tondonia" - wow, resinous, powerfully fragrant, umami for days, amazing

Duplessis, G 2017 Chablis 1er "Montmains" - 13%, offers a late jolt of minerals but kinda blah otherwise

Mystery #1 - Bod. Chivite 2001 Navarra "Coleccion 125" Riserva - a Liquidator selection, lo these many years ago; well, it's red enough but it has not endured particularly well

Mystery #2 - Ch. Magdelaine 1978 St-Emilion GC - heat damage (pruny, raspy)

Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Cot - kinda horsey (unicorny?) on the nose but really nice on the palate

Lopez de Heredia 2008 Rioja Tinto Reserva "Vina Bosconia" - fresh, lively, long, minerally snap in the midpalate, terrific bottle

Edmund St-John 1994 Syrah "Durrell Vineyard" - library bottle; even more vigorous! tingly on the tongue, blue fruit with a hit of camphor, wow

Palari 2004 Faro - 13.5%, an old Sicilian beverage (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera), dark fruits, maybe even a bit stewed or overripe, but still stylish, good acidity, whiff of rosemary, it's not ineffably wonderful but it is really interesting

Ch. Musar 2005 Rouge - the usual witches' brew, another dark-fruited wine, the VA demonstrates a bit of menthol, sui generis but very happy to drink it

Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Cabernet - always nice to visit with cabernet that isn't Bordeauxver the top: mild by Garonne standards but pretty full by Loire standards, just-so ripe, some complexity coming from earth/soil flavors and a wee bit of other things

Dom. Filliatreau 2012 Saumur-Champigny "La Grande Vignolle" - practically perfect, the acidity is just a tad grating/gurgly, but really pretty wine, nicely judged, nicely aged

La Vizcaina (Raul Perez) 2018 Lomas de Valtuille "La Vitoriana" - good but what the hell is it? (Google sez: Mencia with dabs of Bastardo)

Ch. Margaux 1993 Pavillon Blanc - so classy... and so corked.

Foreau (Dom. du Clos Naudin) 1996 Vouvray Moelleux - not as sweet as it used to be (still way above the domain reserve), excellent texture and supportive acids, slowly sweetly subsiding

Luneau-Papin 2012 "Terres de Pierre" - La butte de la roche, the label sayeth, excellent and very minerally, 2012 was a really good year for Muscadet

Thank you to everyone for providing great food and wine, and for being there.
 
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