Originially posted 6/21/02
I got together at the end of April with about a dozen fellow wine geeks for a Monte Bello tasting. As Im rather late in posting, Ill keep my comments brief and just say that more and more I find these wines disappointing given their hype and current pricing.
Has my palate changed? Certainly. As many folks know, Ive become more and more oak averse the past few years. However, the oak regimen the wine goes through also seems to have changed as newer vintages appear distinctly oakier than they were in the past and the difference is not simply due to integration with age. A recent Ridge Geyserville vertical I attended showed the same trait.
Paul Draper deserves all the accolades he has received over the years as he has done some truly outstanding and pioneering work and has played a major role in the growth of the California wine industry. Anyone that has visited the winery (and I would encourage anyone thinking of a vineyard tour in California to make a stop at Ridge) also knows that hes one of the nicest fellows around. However, Im disheartened to say that whereas Ridge wines used to be an automatic go to for me, they no longer are. While Ill drink the 91 Monte Bello and Geyserville any day of the week, Im officially off the Ridge bandwagon.
Wines are in order tasted.
Brad
>1990 Domaine du Closel- Savennires - Vielles Vignes
Alas, a cooked bottle as oxidized flavors and aromas dominated.
1995 Chteau Soucherie-Clos des Perrieres- Savennires
Plenty of mineral on the nose with ripe grapefruit and a touch of honey. Rich and dry on the palate with good balance. Theres pleasant mineral, yellow citrus flavors with a touch of botrytis. A well made wine and quite good, if not particularly exiting. Solid B+.
1993 Ridge Vineyards- Chardonnay, Santa Cruz (served double blind)
I guessed it was the 96 Ridge, but that had more to do with figuring out what the person that brought it would bring given the Monte Bello theme and knowing he was a Ridge fan and had served Ridge Chardonnays to me in the past.
Its a fairly crisp Chardonnay, by California standards, with pineapple, apple and oak flavors and aromas. The oak is fairly well-integrated, but is still a bit much for me. Starting to show a little tired. B.
2000 Dnnhoff- Riesling Kabinett, Norheimer Dellchen, Nahe
My, this is a perky wine. Shows excellent concentration for a 00 as well as the vintages taut acidity. Given the stuffing this wine has, the acidity is actually very well balanced, which Ive found to be the exception, rather than the rule for 00. Peaches, mineral and flowers on the nose and palate. A perfect example of why Dnnhoff is tops. Solid B+.
2000 Joh. Jos. Christoffel- Riesling Sptlese, rziger Wrzgarten, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Almost water-like in appearance. Clean, focused and dominated by a strong mineral streak with light stone fruits. Fairly sweet, yet balanced nicely. B+.
1976 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
100% Cabernet Sauvignon: 12.7% Alc.
Shows promise in its ruby color and nose of menthol, sweet cherries and beef blood. However, a quick taste dashed any hopes that this could be one of the surprises of the night. Harshly acidic, the tannins are actually fairly resolved though drying. Faint glimmers of cherry remain, though earth and herb flavors dominate. A deceased wine, but one the morticians in the group found intriguing. C.
1980 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
12.4% Alc.
Shows more structure and better balance than the 76, though it too is fairly drying on the palate. Theres lots of menthol and green pepper to be found, as well as a bit of earth and red cherries. However, since I dont particularly like menthol in my wine and I positively detest green pepper when it dominates, there really isnt much for me to like here. Its thin, to boot. Again, a wine that if not dead, is dying, but one which a few grave diggers enjoyed. C+.
1982 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
Corked!
1998 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc: 12.4% Alc.
Shows more of a pure black fruit character with more richness than the 97 and with less mint. Still, theres a good deal of oak here and the fruit is having a hard time sustaining it. Theres a big hole in the middle and the wine finishes coarsely. Quite tannic and drying. B.
1997 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc: 12.9% Alc.
Shows both cherry and cassis fruit on the nose and palate with a strong showing of mint and cinnamony spicy oak, rounded out by a dash of herb. Not much of a heavyweight, in fact theres a certain elegance to the wine. Turns a little rough on the finish with spiky acidity and dusty earth. B+.
1996 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot: 13.2% Alc.
Rich, black and plumy fruit, spice, touch of menthol, herb and sweet oak on the nose and palate. Firmly tannic, but well proportioned and balanced. The oak will need some time to integrate, but the concentration here is terrific and the fruit should easily absorb the oak. One for the cellar. I Wish there were more here today that tasted as good as this. Solid A-.
1995 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc: 12.5% Alc.
A touch of Brett on the nose with cherry, earth, meat and herb. Showing a lot less than when I had it a couple of years ago. Herb and structure dominate at the moment and clearly suggest that the wine is closed. Theres good potential here, though. A-/B+.
1994 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet franc: 12.7% Alc.
More generous than the 95, but less endowed than the 96. Fairly elegant with red and black fruit, herb, menthol and sweet, spicy oak. Its well balanced and has a nice persistence on the palate. Not a blockbuster, but theres no reason it has to be. Low A-.
1991 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains (from a 375 ml)
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot: 13.1% Alc.
Now this is what its all about. Depth, elegance, balance. Its not often that one finds all three traits in California Cabernets these days, but thats why the 91 Monte is so special. It entices you with its sweet perfume and makes you swoon with its opulent, yet focused, fruit, herb chocolate and earth flavors. Just one classy wine. A.
1990 Ridge Vineyards - Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot: 13.4% Alc.
Tossed into the mix as we were told a lot of declassified Monte Bello fruit went into the blend, its showing quite nicely. Theres a nice richness and elegance with sound structure. Plenty of herb and green pepper flavors, but theres underlying black fruit that balances it out and spicy oak that has integrated well. Solid B+.
1987 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
Corked!
1985 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
Black and red fruit with herb, earth, leather and spicy wood flavors. The fruit is fading fast, the tannins are softened yet drying and the acidity is a little out of kilter. Heading south in a hurry. B/B-.
1998 Mller-Catoir- Riesling Eiswein, Mussbacher Eselshaut, Pfalz
In a word, sublime. Just a sheer joy to smell and taste. Intense, vivacious and penetrating with precise mineral, apple and stone fruit flavors with a bit of a spicy note. Sweet though it has an acidic backbone made of steel. More, please. Solid A.
I got together at the end of April with about a dozen fellow wine geeks for a Monte Bello tasting. As Im rather late in posting, Ill keep my comments brief and just say that more and more I find these wines disappointing given their hype and current pricing.
Has my palate changed? Certainly. As many folks know, Ive become more and more oak averse the past few years. However, the oak regimen the wine goes through also seems to have changed as newer vintages appear distinctly oakier than they were in the past and the difference is not simply due to integration with age. A recent Ridge Geyserville vertical I attended showed the same trait.
Paul Draper deserves all the accolades he has received over the years as he has done some truly outstanding and pioneering work and has played a major role in the growth of the California wine industry. Anyone that has visited the winery (and I would encourage anyone thinking of a vineyard tour in California to make a stop at Ridge) also knows that hes one of the nicest fellows around. However, Im disheartened to say that whereas Ridge wines used to be an automatic go to for me, they no longer are. While Ill drink the 91 Monte Bello and Geyserville any day of the week, Im officially off the Ridge bandwagon.
Wines are in order tasted.
Brad
>1990 Domaine du Closel- Savennires - Vielles Vignes
Alas, a cooked bottle as oxidized flavors and aromas dominated.
1995 Chteau Soucherie-Clos des Perrieres- Savennires
Plenty of mineral on the nose with ripe grapefruit and a touch of honey. Rich and dry on the palate with good balance. Theres pleasant mineral, yellow citrus flavors with a touch of botrytis. A well made wine and quite good, if not particularly exiting. Solid B+.
1993 Ridge Vineyards- Chardonnay, Santa Cruz (served double blind)
I guessed it was the 96 Ridge, but that had more to do with figuring out what the person that brought it would bring given the Monte Bello theme and knowing he was a Ridge fan and had served Ridge Chardonnays to me in the past.
Its a fairly crisp Chardonnay, by California standards, with pineapple, apple and oak flavors and aromas. The oak is fairly well-integrated, but is still a bit much for me. Starting to show a little tired. B.
2000 Dnnhoff- Riesling Kabinett, Norheimer Dellchen, Nahe
My, this is a perky wine. Shows excellent concentration for a 00 as well as the vintages taut acidity. Given the stuffing this wine has, the acidity is actually very well balanced, which Ive found to be the exception, rather than the rule for 00. Peaches, mineral and flowers on the nose and palate. A perfect example of why Dnnhoff is tops. Solid B+.
2000 Joh. Jos. Christoffel- Riesling Sptlese, rziger Wrzgarten, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Almost water-like in appearance. Clean, focused and dominated by a strong mineral streak with light stone fruits. Fairly sweet, yet balanced nicely. B+.
1976 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
100% Cabernet Sauvignon: 12.7% Alc.
Shows promise in its ruby color and nose of menthol, sweet cherries and beef blood. However, a quick taste dashed any hopes that this could be one of the surprises of the night. Harshly acidic, the tannins are actually fairly resolved though drying. Faint glimmers of cherry remain, though earth and herb flavors dominate. A deceased wine, but one the morticians in the group found intriguing. C.
1980 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
12.4% Alc.
Shows more structure and better balance than the 76, though it too is fairly drying on the palate. Theres lots of menthol and green pepper to be found, as well as a bit of earth and red cherries. However, since I dont particularly like menthol in my wine and I positively detest green pepper when it dominates, there really isnt much for me to like here. Its thin, to boot. Again, a wine that if not dead, is dying, but one which a few grave diggers enjoyed. C+.
1982 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
Corked!
1998 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc: 12.4% Alc.
Shows more of a pure black fruit character with more richness than the 97 and with less mint. Still, theres a good deal of oak here and the fruit is having a hard time sustaining it. Theres a big hole in the middle and the wine finishes coarsely. Quite tannic and drying. B.
1997 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc: 12.9% Alc.
Shows both cherry and cassis fruit on the nose and palate with a strong showing of mint and cinnamony spicy oak, rounded out by a dash of herb. Not much of a heavyweight, in fact theres a certain elegance to the wine. Turns a little rough on the finish with spiky acidity and dusty earth. B+.
1996 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot: 13.2% Alc.
Rich, black and plumy fruit, spice, touch of menthol, herb and sweet oak on the nose and palate. Firmly tannic, but well proportioned and balanced. The oak will need some time to integrate, but the concentration here is terrific and the fruit should easily absorb the oak. One for the cellar. I Wish there were more here today that tasted as good as this. Solid A-.
1995 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc: 12.5% Alc.
A touch of Brett on the nose with cherry, earth, meat and herb. Showing a lot less than when I had it a couple of years ago. Herb and structure dominate at the moment and clearly suggest that the wine is closed. Theres good potential here, though. A-/B+.
1994 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet franc: 12.7% Alc.
More generous than the 95, but less endowed than the 96. Fairly elegant with red and black fruit, herb, menthol and sweet, spicy oak. Its well balanced and has a nice persistence on the palate. Not a blockbuster, but theres no reason it has to be. Low A-.
1991 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains (from a 375 ml)
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot: 13.1% Alc.
Now this is what its all about. Depth, elegance, balance. Its not often that one finds all three traits in California Cabernets these days, but thats why the 91 Monte is so special. It entices you with its sweet perfume and makes you swoon with its opulent, yet focused, fruit, herb chocolate and earth flavors. Just one classy wine. A.
1990 Ridge Vineyards - Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot: 13.4% Alc.
Tossed into the mix as we were told a lot of declassified Monte Bello fruit went into the blend, its showing quite nicely. Theres a nice richness and elegance with sound structure. Plenty of herb and green pepper flavors, but theres underlying black fruit that balances it out and spicy oak that has integrated well. Solid B+.
1987 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
Corked!
1985 Ridge Vineyards - Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains
Black and red fruit with herb, earth, leather and spicy wood flavors. The fruit is fading fast, the tannins are softened yet drying and the acidity is a little out of kilter. Heading south in a hurry. B/B-.
1998 Mller-Catoir- Riesling Eiswein, Mussbacher Eselshaut, Pfalz
In a word, sublime. Just a sheer joy to smell and taste. Intense, vivacious and penetrating with precise mineral, apple and stone fruit flavors with a bit of a spicy note. Sweet though it has an acidic backbone made of steel. More, please. Solid A.