Dipping my toe into the 2005s

Lee Short

Lee Short
And if ever there was a place to start, it's with the Lapierre (S).

It was showing very nicely, too -- properly mature, probably been drinking well for 2-3 years. A mix of good crunchy fruit and funk. More funk than fruit on the nose. More fruit than funk on the palate. Have one more bottle, and won't hold it long. I expect other wines from the vintage are not really quite ready yet. But I'll probably try one soon anyway, just to be sure.
 
originally posted by Lee Short:
Dipping my toe into the 2005sAnd if ever there was a place to start, it's with the Lapierre (S).

It was showing very nicely, too -- properly mature, probably been drinking well for 2-3 years. A mix of good crunchy fruit and funk. More funk than fruit on the nose. More fruit than funk on the palate. Have one more bottle, and won't hold it long. I expect other wines from the vintage are not really quite ready yet. But I'll probably try one soon anyway, just to be sure.

Whoa, I'm WAY out ahead of you. I have 1b each of Roilette Tardive and Desvignes Javernières left (the last bottle was awesome, BTW).
 
I opened my 5th of six magnums of 2005 Tete Cuvee Prestige a couple of weeks ago and came up with this (posted in Cellar Tracker) - a bit long-winded, but FWIW:

"This note is for the bottle opened on 11/7/21. A magnum decanted into 375 ml bottles and imbibed over several days. I've been trying to push the limits of Beaujolais age-worthiness, having discovered that cru Beaujolais from skilled vignerons evolves in interesting and often beneficial ways. This bottle is one of the longest-held in my cellar, tho, given its pedigree, vintage, and format, I doubt it should be considered really old.

"The wine takes a period of interaction with air to show its flavor composition, which is mostly typical red berry-cherry, still pretty heavily structured by drying, sandy tannins. So far, so good, but the wine also has a gamey (no pun intended) sub-flavor that's distracting and unpleasant. It doesn't ruin the wine, but it's not an asset. Over the course of the bottle, I learned that this quality can be minimized by serving the wine close to refrigerator temperature, which also brightens its fruit flavors and moderates the intrusive effect of the tannins.

"Overall, a very good wine that has evolved from youthful Beaujolais, fruit-rich brashness to a slightly distinguished, slightly aristocratic dry red, retaining a vestige of churlish bad manners (the gamey flavor - pardon the tortured metaphor). Best served very cool. It's not fragile after opening, but it's not especially robust, either - the wine losing much of its pith by the fourth half bottle. I interpret this developmental profile as indicating that this wine is well into its plateau of maturity and unlikely to improve from here. Wiser Beaujolais-philes who disagree are invited to comment, I'd love hear from them."

By the last glass, I was heartily sick of the gamey flavor; discouraging, as I've really like my previous bottles.
 
I popped 2005 roilette tardive the weekend of halloween, randomly.

Just awesome. It must have been transitioning over the past few years, because I never got anything remotely close from the wine before. Subconsciously I was transported to a mini vertical of 02, 01, 00, 99 at 66 leonard that some of you may have attended ( pretty sure Eric did ). Much more in line with flavors of those wines, particularly the bookends, than any roilette of the past decade and a half - oddly including some quick-maturing vintages.

That the wine fully entered a secondary flavor phase with earthy, ferrous leathery texture, while packing awesome power, concentration, and persistence is incomputable in this region where we expect structure to recede at such level of complexity. I am guessing this thing will surpass the 99 and 02 in that genre. I also think it will tickle the scientific curiosity of a beaujolais connoisseur in that it's a fleurie that has become one after 15+ years; while i've enjoyed marvelous bottles of fleurie that were up to 30 years old, to the best of my understanding they got there through a long window of drinkability almost from the start, rather than through a routine normally reserved for other regions/varieties.
 
I think these stouter vintages (05, 09) just need time to show their best. I'm sitting on three cases of the Tardive and just opened a couple - the last bottle was starting to show itself, but I think with these top crus it's a Rule of 15 sort of thing.

Worth bearing in mind Roilette is really a MaV.

Ian, I know what you mean about the Tete. We just had an 09 and I would put it more in the interesting than pleasurable category. Julienas is probably my least favorite cru - if one can generalize - just a bit too blocky and angular for my taste.
 
And VLM, I know you think I drink wines too old - but no surprise on that Javernieres, simply the longest haul wine in Beaujolais.
 
I’ve got to agree with Pavel that many 05s shut down in a way that is atypical for Beaujolais. Not sure on the 09s, they were much more fruit driven early on, so I’d be a bit surprised if they were ever all that shut down. But I haven’t tasted any recently.

On the 2002s, I’m much more on the monkey end of the scale. 3-4 years ago, I felt they were starting to fade, so I drank them all up.
 
Hey Lee -- hope you and Melissa are well! Say hi for us!

Agree on the 05 vs 09s... they never really shut down...I am just holding out for specialness right around the corner...at least of the best.

I have a mag of 05 Chanrion I keep wondering about...I think though still a wait...
 
originally posted by BJ:
I have a mag of 05 Chanrion I keep wondering about...I think though still a wait...

a wait for sure, but send me your address anyway :)

'09 and '05 tardive have to overcome very different symptoms of closed-ness though, n'est-ce pas?

MaV I cannot be; Fleurie I do not deign to be, Roilette I am.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by BJ:
I have a mag of 05 Chanrion I keep wondering about...I think though still a wait...

a wait for sure, but send me your address anyway :)

'09 and '05 tardive have to overcome very different symptoms of closed-ness though, n'est-ce pas?

MaV I cannot be; Fleurie I do not deign to be, Roilette I am.

I dunno...I think of 05 as a year that closed down; 09 as one that hasn't come around.
 
originally posted by BJ:
And VLM, I know you think I drink wines too old - but no surprise on that Javernieres, simply the longest haul wine in Beaujolais.

I think you drink the wines exactly when you like them. Where I like them seems to be ephemeral and hard for me to pin down. I want the structure settling out a bit but still with the driving fruit and exuberance that I love about Beaujolais. I'm notoriously bad at figuring out when to drink Coudert wines.

I have no doubt that certain vintages of Javernières will last my lifetime, at least.
 
originally posted by BJ:
I dunno...I think of 05 as a year that closed down; 09 as one that hasn't come around.

true for most of the 09s i have, but the turkey with some rather pronounced sweet italian sausage-based stuffing was accompanied by 09 chermette brouilly pierreux that, while lovely and balanced, was more interesting a few years ago to the best of my recollection. you won't hear me say this too often about the wines i like, but this was always more about its fruit, particularly a red/black flavor interplay with just a hint of citrus. somewhat monotone this time around.
 
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