A Yuletide Kaning in Oakland

J

Jim Hanlon

Jim Hanlon
With some late moment cancellations, it ended up being a smaller Oakland Jeeb, with visiting dignitary Brad Kane, no-longer-really-new-Bay-Area-resident Yule Kim, Larry Stein, and me. It was a pleasant evening, with not too much whining about oxidative wines (though there was some, tigers and stripes). It wasn't raucous, but it was a Tuesday and we're all kinda old.

Here's what we drank:

2016 Prager Riesling Smaragd Klaus: I don't really follow Austrian wines and generally avoid dry Riesling. So this wine wasn't exactly in my wheelhouse, but it was nonetheless very enjoyable. My issues with dry Riesling generally fall into two buckets: overly assertive acidity and ponderous mouthfeel. This had neither. Very well balanced. Seemed to be drinking very well, and I'd worry that extended aging could lose some of the wine's energy. But I don't know.

2007 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre: I also generally avoid Alsace and particularly Alsatian Gewurztraminer. This wine couldn't even see my wheelhouse. That said, it was drinkable and would perhaps even be enjoyable with the right food pairing. This did have the ponderous mouthfeel, but there was some acid. Not sure what the pairing would be, but have a feeling there's something that could unlock this wine.

2007 Pepiere Granite de Clisson: I opened this to be sure there was a white I could drink. That wasn't necessary because the Prager was perfectly pleasant. But I'm still glad we pulled this cork. As Pavel said recently, the 2007 Clisson is much more Pepirere than the 2005. Much more steeliness and minerality. This wine was really showing exceptionally. If you have some, consider opening a bottle this year if you haven't checked in lately. It seems to be at the apex.

2005 Overnoy/Houillon Ploussard: A clean and sound wine. There was much discussion of the 1993 and the famous note. Nothing like that here. If I had to pick a nit, this vintage has a little more rounded core of fruit than most, and that sticks out and obscures some of the usual complexity and prevents the wine from achieving that ethereal character it sometimes can. That said, this was a special wine and I'm pleased to have had the chance to spend time with it.

2009 Puffeney Trousseau Les Berangeres: This wine was to Puffeney as the Overnoy was to Overnoy -- a little marked by a warmer vintage. The fruit here is not at all roasted, but it has a liquer-like quality. I think that will make it more attractive to many, but that's not the character I typically appreciate in Puffeney reds. I think the wine may yet age out of it -- this seemed very young. I'm going to hold my remaining bottles for quite a while.

Thanks to everyone for attending. Those who missed it -- let's schedule another one sometime soon!
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
...My issues with dry Riesling generally fall into two buckets: overly assertive acidity and ponderous mouthfeel...
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Nice set of wines. And interesting thoughts on riesling! Not sure I would associate 'ponderous' with riesling, it generally has such good definition and liveliness, but it all depends on your perspective. And perhaps you are pretty far out there. What whites do you typically like, aside from Muscadet?
 
Ah, wish I’d have still been around.
Always enjoyed the Wolf and this company and these look tasty.
And an Overnoy siting - it has been awhile.
Best,Jim
 
Thanks for organizing this dinner Jim! It was great to meet everyone in person, and the Wolf was a great venue. That corner table on the front patio was a perfect setting for a balmy day.

2016 Prager Riesling Smaragd Ried Klaus: Big, high-octane wine with opulent fruit, but balanced with good acidity. I liked this a lot.

2007 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre: This was interesting to have with the riesling. Definitely richer in comparison, but not syrupy or unctuous. Surprisingly light on its feet, with hints of spices on the palate. I preferred the Prager and Pepiere, but this was good wine.

2007 Pepiere Granite de Clisson: I wished I spent more time with this. Its cool minerality presented a sharp contrast with the bigness and warmth of the riesling and gewurztraminer. Yet, to be honest, I think I just probably prefer Pepiere younger. And this isn't to say I dislike aged Muscadet: I have enjoyed Luneau-Papin L d'Or with age quite a bit. But, there's something about the nervy energy and tension of Pepiere wines in their youth that I find charming, and I missed that here.

2005 Overnoy/Houillon Ploussard: I remember my first and last time having this wine when Jonathan opened it for a dinner at Dino's around ten years back. It was great being able to revisit this wine and think back about those times back then with Cole, Bob, Maureen, Jonathan, and the rest of the DC crew. Good memories.

As Jim noted, this wine was very clean (no notable flaws a la the infamous 1993 note, which I still can't find on Google). Full of energy, lightness, and delicacy. Few other wines are more memorable to me.

2009 Puffeney Trousseau Les Berangeres: This seemed a touch primary and simple to me. Tasty, but I think "liqueur-like" is an apt descriptor for it.

It was great to finally hang with Jim, Brad, and Larry in person. Until next time!
 
I probably opened the 02 or the 07 Overnoy. I only ever had two bottles of the 05 (it came out after the 07 and Overnoy was already allotted strictly and prices were rising, though not like now). If what you had tasted like the 05, it was probably the 02. If it tasted like electric kool aid acid, it was the 07. Rahsaan had that with us when he was in DC and he can attest to its uniqueness.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
If it tasted like electric kool aid acid, it was the 07. Rahsaan had that with us when he was in DC and he can attest to its uniqueness.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't have expected to remember a specific wine from so many years ago. But that description brings it all back! Perfect.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
If it tasted like electric kool aid acid, it was the 07. Rahsaan had that with us when he was in DC and he can attest to its uniqueness.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't have expected to remember a specific wine from so many years ago. But that description brings it all back! Perfect.
Click to expand...

The 2007 Overnoy Poulsard is one of the most memorable and meaningful wines of my life. This captures some of its essence well.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:

As Jim noted, this wine was very clean (no notable flaws a la the infamous 1993 note, which I still can't find on Google).
Click to expand...

Yule, here is the Yaniger note on the 1993:

Nathan pulls out an odd-looking bottle, a present from Joe Dressner, the infamous ’93 Overnoy Arbois Pupillon. Never look a gift horse in the mouth, but at the same time, no need to stick your face in its butt. Lightish color, showing plenty of signs of oxidation, despite the huge sulfur content, both free and bound, not to mention an interesting mix of mercaptans. Imagine, if you will, shoving an M-80 up the hind parts of a skunk, shoving the skunk up the hind parts of a sweaty shepherdess with a yeast infection and on her period. Now the explosion ensues- catch her week-old thong (a gift from Brad Kane) as it flies by. Give it a good hard sniff and contemplate the layers of aroma. Voila! You have the Overnoy. It was all I could do to actually taste it. And I’m (gag!) pleased to report that (gag!) the flavor was consistent with the aroma. Well, at least if you mix in some battery acid. A wine too dirty for me to enjoy- contemplate that and be very, very afraid.

This Overnoy says a lot about Joe Dressner. Some clever guy would taste this and buy a bottle as a gag gift. Joe, ever the man truly committed to humor, actually bought this in quantity, imported it, and sells it for money. THAT is the kind of dedication and willingness to go the extra yard for a laugh that sets him apart from his fellow Man. Many thanks, Joe!
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I probably opened the 02 or the 07 Overnoy. I only ever had two bottles of the 05 (it came out after the 07 and Overnoy was already allotted strictly and prices were rising, though not like now). If what you had tasted like the 05, it was probably the 02. If it tasted like electric kool aid acid, it was the 07. Rahsaan had that with us when he was in DC and he can attest to its uniqueness.
Click to expand...

I double-checked the tasting notes for that dinner, and it was indeed the 2007 Overnoy. Thank you again for bringing it that night, Jonathan. Indelibly memorable for me.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Yule Kim:

As Jim noted, this wine was very clean (no notable flaws a la the infamous 1993 note, which I still can't find on Google).
Click to expand...

Yule, here is the Yaniger note on the 1993:

Nathan pulls out an odd-looking bottle, a present from Joe Dressner, the infamous ’93 Overnoy Arbois Pupillon. Never look a gift horse in the mouth, but at the same time, no need to stick your face in its butt. Lightish color, showing plenty of signs of oxidation, despite the huge sulfur content, both free and bound, not to mention an interesting mix of mercaptans. Imagine, if you will, shoving an M-80 up the hind parts of a skunk, shoving the skunk up the hind parts of a sweaty shepherdess with a yeast infection and on her period. Now the explosion ensues- catch her week-old thong (a gift from Brad Kane) as it flies by. Give it a good hard sniff and contemplate the layers of aroma. Voila! You have the Overnoy. It was all I could do to actually taste it. And I’m (gag!) pleased to report that (gag!) the flavor was consistent with the aroma. Well, at least if you mix in some battery acid. A wine too dirty for me to enjoy- contemplate that and be very, very afraid.

This Overnoy says a lot about Joe Dressner. Some clever guy would taste this and buy a bottle as a gag gift. Joe, ever the man truly committed to humor, actually bought this in quantity, imported it, and sells it for money. THAT is the kind of dedication and willingness to go the extra yard for a laugh that sets him apart from his fellow Man. Many thanks, Joe!
Click to expand...

This is too good! And, I think I did read this legendary note all those years ago after I had the '07 Overnoy. It's all slowly coming back to me, lol.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I probably opened the 02 or the 07 Overnoy. I only ever had two bottles of the 05 (it came out after the 07 and Overnoy was already allotted strictly and prices were rising, though not like now). If what you had tasted like the 05, it was probably the 02. If it tasted like electric kool aid acid, it was the 07. Rahsaan had that with us when he was in DC and he can attest to its uniqueness.
Click to expand...

I assume, then, that there was a test of the electric kool-aid acid.
 
originally posted by Robert Vodicka:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I probably opened the 02 or the 07 Overnoy. I only ever had two bottles of the 05 (it came out after the 07 and Overnoy was already allotted strictly and prices were rising, though not like now). If what you had tasted like the 05, it was probably the 02. If it tasted like electric kool aid acid, it was the 07. Rahsaan had that with us when he was in DC and he can attest to its uniqueness.
Click to expand...

I assume, then, that there was a test of the electric kool-aid acid.
Click to expand...

Tests? Tests? We don' need no stinkin' tests.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
...My issues with dry Riesling generally fall into two buckets: overly assertive acidity and ponderous mouthfeel...
Click to expand...

Nice set of wines. And interesting thoughts on riesling! Not sure I would associate 'ponderous' with riesling, it generally has such good definition and liveliness, but it all depends on your perspective. And perhaps you are pretty far out there. What whites do you typically like, aside from Muscadet?
Click to expand...

I like lots of different whites. Generally speaking, don't care for many Alsatian whites and Sauvignon Blanc. Don't like southern Rhone and other whites that have weight without sufficient acidity. I'm not on an extreme edge.
 
Interesting. I guess it's just a personal preference thing where some grapes click more than others. I thought you were saying rieslings were too heavy or broad for your tastes, and I don't think riesling is a particularly heavy or broad grape in an absolute sense. But I guess that's not it.
 
Many thanks for being the scribe, Jim. It was so nice to see Larry again and to finally meet you and Yule.

I really liked the restaurant. Terrific food and nice to eat outside. We had a most excellent wine lineup to boot!
 
Excellent time! Nice to meet Yule and to connect with Jim and Brad. I brought the Trimbach. It was heavier handed than I expected, given the previous bottle I opened and '04 that I opened about a year ago. It did show more mineralogy and acidity on day 2.

No complaints by me on the other two whites and Overnoy. They represented their varieties and origins quite nicely.

I wasn't surprised how Puffeney showed, given the vintage. Jim gave me the remainder to take home, about 1/4 bottle. I left it on the kitchen counter with a cork in it. I drank the remainder last night. There was less structure and less of the liqueur note that Jim noted. It had better balance and was lighter on its feet.

Hopefully, we can get more Bay Area folks to join in next time. One thing that should be noted is that our enclosed patio table was adjacent to two open windows so there was plenty of air flow. Distance between tables was sufficient.
 
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