Ian Fitzsimmons
Ian Fitzsimmons
On a modest scale.
NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut, disgorged 2016.I've been trying to age my Champagnes more than previously, but nothing says celebration quite like the classic Champagne.
This is very good, I like it appreciably more than the last bottle I opened - about two years ago - from the same batch. But I'm having trouble finding descriptors. Not yeasty at all. A bit biscuity at 30% Pinot/70% Chardonnay. Really satisfying breadth and tang on the mid-pallet. Very dry, nearly as though with tannins. But no flavor associations are springing to mind. Perhaps a soupcon of cumin. The balance is very nice. Better - smoother - the second day. A rebuy at about $40.
2002 Domaine Arlaud Clos de la Roche Cuvée Unique. Corked. I bought six of these at auction a long time ago and, when I opened that first bottle last year, it was an atrocious, brambly, garbagy mess. I couldn't tell if it was a bad bottle, in a weird stage, or just poorly-made. The new data from this bottle are no help at all.
2012 Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Le Sentier Du Clou Vieilles Vignes. This is charming and very nice. Glassy appearance, nice Burgundy coloring. Substantial tannins. Mostly well-balanced, with perhaps a slight overemphasis on acidity. Black-ish fruits. A wine of somewhat stern character, not one to pander and flatter; it will meet you half-way, if you cede it some attention. May benefit from another 3-5 years. Possibly. The fruit contribution isn't overly generous. At $25/bottle, this is perfectly fair value; at today's $40+, not sure I'd buy again.
NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut, disgorged 2016.I've been trying to age my Champagnes more than previously, but nothing says celebration quite like the classic Champagne.
This is very good, I like it appreciably more than the last bottle I opened - about two years ago - from the same batch. But I'm having trouble finding descriptors. Not yeasty at all. A bit biscuity at 30% Pinot/70% Chardonnay. Really satisfying breadth and tang on the mid-pallet. Very dry, nearly as though with tannins. But no flavor associations are springing to mind. Perhaps a soupcon of cumin. The balance is very nice. Better - smoother - the second day. A rebuy at about $40.
2002 Domaine Arlaud Clos de la Roche Cuvée Unique. Corked. I bought six of these at auction a long time ago and, when I opened that first bottle last year, it was an atrocious, brambly, garbagy mess. I couldn't tell if it was a bad bottle, in a weird stage, or just poorly-made. The new data from this bottle are no help at all.
2012 Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Le Sentier Du Clou Vieilles Vignes. This is charming and very nice. Glassy appearance, nice Burgundy coloring. Substantial tannins. Mostly well-balanced, with perhaps a slight overemphasis on acidity. Black-ish fruits. A wine of somewhat stern character, not one to pander and flatter; it will meet you half-way, if you cede it some attention. May benefit from another 3-5 years. Possibly. The fruit contribution isn't overly generous. At $25/bottle, this is perfectly fair value; at today's $40+, not sure I'd buy again.