Mauro 1998 Vino de Mesa de Castilla y Len (Castilla-Len) Lavishly (and, based on the taste of it, expensively) wooded, but that element has matured nicely into its old-furniture, spicebox stage. However, the fruit dries out rather sooner after opening than Id like. In the early stages, its plummy, texturally lovely, and maturing. Later, it kinda disappears into its wood. Im not sure if this is just a transitionary stage or the wines coda, but Id be inclined towards the latter interpretation. For a short while after opening, however, its quite nice. (12/08)
El Maestro Sierra Oloroso Sherry 15 aos (Jerez) Frankly, this is a difficult wine for me, and Im not sure I can do it justice. Intense almond aromas but more the shells and skins than the sweeter nuts within and the usual arid, almost-mold-but-more-ancient-than-that, topnote, but with more space and singularity than Im used to. Then, a stark dryness that tasteswell, it tastes like a decaying building. I suppose that doesnt make much sense, but try to think what the Acropolis might taste like, were it to suddenly become consumable rather than viewable. Absolutely planar throughout, and eventually I begin to suspect that the wines finish doesnt ever actually end, but just continues to some sort of infinitely-distant asymptote. An extremely intellectual sherry. I think it might be terrific. Im not sure I like it. Obviously, I need someone to explain it to me, and then well see. Or not. (12/08)
Guitirrez Colosa Elcano Fino Sherry (Jerez) From 375 ml. Very, very fresh-tasting, in a way that almost transports me to Spain. That said, Im not entirely sure what Im tasting. Bony and yet overly affable, like a skeletal puppy leaping at ones palate, theres an upfront intensity paired with an airy hollowness that I cant quite wrap my head around. (12/08)
Warres 1994 Late Bottled Vintage Porto (Douro) This is not a great Port, to be sure, but the problem I have with this wine is less its inherent quality than the fact that Ive realized I just dont much like ruby Port without significant age. The fruit here is big and simple-minded, theres certainly no lack of sugar, the relatively minor tannin is foursquare, and theres just not a whole lot more to say about the wine. (12/08)
El Maestro Sierra Oloroso Sherry 15 aos (Jerez) Frankly, this is a difficult wine for me, and Im not sure I can do it justice. Intense almond aromas but more the shells and skins than the sweeter nuts within and the usual arid, almost-mold-but-more-ancient-than-that, topnote, but with more space and singularity than Im used to. Then, a stark dryness that tasteswell, it tastes like a decaying building. I suppose that doesnt make much sense, but try to think what the Acropolis might taste like, were it to suddenly become consumable rather than viewable. Absolutely planar throughout, and eventually I begin to suspect that the wines finish doesnt ever actually end, but just continues to some sort of infinitely-distant asymptote. An extremely intellectual sherry. I think it might be terrific. Im not sure I like it. Obviously, I need someone to explain it to me, and then well see. Or not. (12/08)
Guitirrez Colosa Elcano Fino Sherry (Jerez) From 375 ml. Very, very fresh-tasting, in a way that almost transports me to Spain. That said, Im not entirely sure what Im tasting. Bony and yet overly affable, like a skeletal puppy leaping at ones palate, theres an upfront intensity paired with an airy hollowness that I cant quite wrap my head around. (12/08)
Warres 1994 Late Bottled Vintage Porto (Douro) This is not a great Port, to be sure, but the problem I have with this wine is less its inherent quality than the fact that Ive realized I just dont much like ruby Port without significant age. The fruit here is big and simple-minded, theres certainly no lack of sugar, the relatively minor tannin is foursquare, and theres just not a whole lot more to say about the wine. (12/08)