Kanonkop 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch) By reputation and critical response, this is the worst version of this wine that Kanonkops made in many years. And yes, its a little scratchy and advanced. But I find the minor greenness, touched with a dusting of white pepper, appealing in contrast to modern cabernets distorted lushness (not that lushness is something from which this wine regularly suffers), and in fact the wines balance is better than its reputation would indicate. I wouldnt hold it any longer, though, and I think food something with fat is essential. (12/08)
Cooper Mountain 2001 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley) Juicy-fruity. Pear and light fennel, plus a bit of pollen-infused honey; the wine has a dry, mead-like texture thats fairly interesting in a wine. Good acidity. Very approachable. (12/08)
Sineann 2007 Gewrztraminer Celilo Vineyard (Columbia Gorge) Juicy, refreshing, and forward. Fragrant. Lemongrass and underripe guava, crisp pear, pretty good acidity. If youre thinking that none of the preceding sounds anything like the gewrztraminer with which youre familiar, youre right. But if you forget whats on the label, its a quite pleasant quaff. (12/08)
Ridge 2006 Zinfandel East Bench (Dry Creek Valley) 14.9%. Pure essence of Dry Creek just like the text on the label promises and quite wonderfully restrained in its post-harvest packaging. Wild, vine-y berries, twisted and gnarled, swirl on the palate. Theres a very light bit of coconut, but this wine is mostly about its fruit, which is concentrated but not overly intense. Theres light but balanced structure for medium-term ageability. Delicious. (12/08)
Mills Reef 2003 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve (Hawkes Bay) The wood here isnt apparent on the nose or palate, but it files off all the varietys signature edges, leaving a smoother, rounder core of greenish-yellow fruit. Which has, in turn, been diminished by age, leaving a pleasant and somewhat creamy layer of something a little more stone fruited in its wake. This is probably at the end of its useful life, and its definitely a low-volume wine, so proceed accordingly. (12/08)
Tohu 2004 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) By-the-numbers Marlborough sauvignon. Bell pepper? Check. Tart, citrusy acidity? Check. An aggressive sort of sizzle to the palate? Check. Theres not much else to this wine, but I suspect no one cares at this price point. (12/08)
Cooper Mountain 2001 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley) Juicy-fruity. Pear and light fennel, plus a bit of pollen-infused honey; the wine has a dry, mead-like texture thats fairly interesting in a wine. Good acidity. Very approachable. (12/08)
Sineann 2007 Gewrztraminer Celilo Vineyard (Columbia Gorge) Juicy, refreshing, and forward. Fragrant. Lemongrass and underripe guava, crisp pear, pretty good acidity. If youre thinking that none of the preceding sounds anything like the gewrztraminer with which youre familiar, youre right. But if you forget whats on the label, its a quite pleasant quaff. (12/08)
Ridge 2006 Zinfandel East Bench (Dry Creek Valley) 14.9%. Pure essence of Dry Creek just like the text on the label promises and quite wonderfully restrained in its post-harvest packaging. Wild, vine-y berries, twisted and gnarled, swirl on the palate. Theres a very light bit of coconut, but this wine is mostly about its fruit, which is concentrated but not overly intense. Theres light but balanced structure for medium-term ageability. Delicious. (12/08)
Mills Reef 2003 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve (Hawkes Bay) The wood here isnt apparent on the nose or palate, but it files off all the varietys signature edges, leaving a smoother, rounder core of greenish-yellow fruit. Which has, in turn, been diminished by age, leaving a pleasant and somewhat creamy layer of something a little more stone fruited in its wake. This is probably at the end of its useful life, and its definitely a low-volume wine, so proceed accordingly. (12/08)
Tohu 2004 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) By-the-numbers Marlborough sauvignon. Bell pepper? Check. Tart, citrusy acidity? Check. An aggressive sort of sizzle to the palate? Check. Theres not much else to this wine, but I suspect no one cares at this price point. (12/08)