Tocai for the full guy (i Clivi)

[Thor]

Were sitting around a table, debating politics. Which weve been doing foroh, about four hours now. Technically, were having lunch. But its quite dark outside, the dinner hour even the late Italian one has already arrived for many in the neighborhood, and neither the wine nor a regularly-replenished supply of hearty, crusty bread has stemmed. The crusty remains of a rich, Friulian style bean soup solidify along the interiors of our bowls, long since abandoned and forgotten amidst an occasionally heated conversation.

continued here. Notes follow:

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 2003 Galea (Colli Orientali del Friuli) A little bit sulfurous at the moment. The nose is heavy and alcoholic (it was, as everywhere else, a very hot year for grape-growing), and not showing much under its twin assaults of lead and SO2. The finish suggests mint, but its tight. Solid, fat, long, but formless. Howeverafter two hours in a warm (thats European warm) room, a little bit more has emerged, including some ripe melon and a harder edge to the structure. Its still a fat, flabby wine, though. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 2003 Brazan (Colli Goriziano) A little better than the 03 Galea, with a more cohesive form. Grapefruit and other assorted citrus rinds are present, along with some alcoholic numbness of the finish. Its big. After a few hours of air and warmth, the nose is much improved, adding fig, melon, and cantaloupe to the fruit salad. But while its the more drinkable of the 03 whites, at least at the moment, its still fundamentally deformed by its vintage. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 2001 Galea Corno di Rosazzo (Colli Orientali del Friuli) While it appears to broaden in the glass, in fact this wine is a lot less forward than it was a year earlier, so those holding some will now likely need to wait out its maturation. Herbs and a fine minerality are at the core, with a crescendo to a feathery finish that, nonetheless, remains full of mineral solemnity. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 2001 Brazan Brazzano di Cormons (Colli Goriziano) Waxed peaches. Quite flowery. Texturally, waves of luxurious satin envelop the tongue, and get sexier with each passing minute. While this isnt fully mature, its drinking beautifully right now. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 1999 Galea Corno di Rosazzo (Colli Orientali del Friuli) From a warm vintage in which some of the berries started to desiccate, then recovered some of their plumpness just before harvest. This has opened a bit since my previous tasting, and the dominant characteristic is that of honey without its sweetness, lightly dusted with dried sage. Long and round, but still too young. Theres a very mild and pleasant oxidation on the finish, which I find to be entirely typical of these wines, and in fact hardly unknown among tocais in general. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 1997 Galea Corno di Rosazzo (Colli Orientali del Friuli) Mostly open, but I still wouldnt say its on the far side of maturity. Wax and oxidation layered with late-autumn leaves and a long, sandy finish. Letting its hair down, and those with a quantity will want to start sampling from their collection. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 1997 Brazan Brazzano di Cormons (Colli Goriziano) Reddish fruit at the core, surrounded by wet wax and bronzed, metallic jacket. A triangular wine, drinking as well as its ever going towhich makes it the rare Clivi white thats truly ready. (11/07)

i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 1997 Galea Rosso Corno di Rosazzo (Colli Orientali del Friuli) 100% merlot, planted at 2000 vines per hectare. Earthy/gritty tannin, granular cherry and strawberry, and then a finish with the rough, friction-y texture of old leather. A bit of whiskey barrel sweetness emerges on the finish, but the wine isnt hot. It is, however, in need of drinking. (11/07)