Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 7-17-23
2019 D&R, Mourvèdre Evangelho - I’ve come to the conclusion that I should just write one note that tells how special this grape, from this vineyard, in these hands is and then just qualify it by saying too young, young, getting there, ready . . . etc., depending on vintage,
I’ve had this wine since it’s first vintage, multiple times for each vintage, and over that time I’ve become convinced that, for my palate, this is the most well-made, nuanced and enjoyable red wine made in CA.
Of course, D&R is no more but, thankfully, Hardy is still going strong (Yeah!)
Showing young.
Outstanding.
2021 Extradimensional, Mourvèdre Evangelho - see above; showing very young.
Outstanding.
2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Grenouilles - I have had this wine seven times since release and it’s all I will ever ask of a Chablis; perfect balance, depth, character, complexity and it is aging incrementally. A magical bottle and worthy of its Grand Cru label.
Outstanding.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Montmain - charming, brisk, with good depth and freshness. My “go to” when it’s time for quality Chablis.
Excellent.
2012 Terrane, Nebbiolo Luna Matta Vineyard - Bryan Harrington’s other label and this wine is showing well. All the dusty rose and tar of the variety but with a lighter hand. Complex and engaging.
Excellent.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy - immediately recognizable as Burgundy; the fact that it is off the Côte d’Or makes no nevermind. Firm but subtle (actually reminds me of Corton) with a core of dark fruit, mineral accents and good balance. And I’d guess it will have a shelf-life.
Excellent.
2019 Soalheiro, Alvarinho Granit - lovely, stony and fresh. Good fruit and acid reasonable depth with what I would call a “pretty” delivery. Less than $20.
Very good.
2020 Soalheiro, Alvarinho Primeiras Vinhas - not as stony as the foregoing but deeper, more saturated and better balanced. A bit of chalk accents the fresh fruit, solid structure, good acids and some length. For drinking now or later.
Excellent.
2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Temperance Hill - unique terroir is stamped on the nose and palate of this precise and juicy wine. Once again, this producer lets the earth speak. And it seems to have a nice development arc ahead.
Outstanding.
2021 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - joyful, fruit-filled, with good cut and a fine mineral core. Just the stuff to accompany a summer dinner but it will last, too. I did not buy enough.
Excellent.
2018 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - smoother and softer than the ‘21 but still balanced and joyful. No signs of fade.
Excellent.
2020 Pieropan, Soave Calvarino - this bottle was just a little less generous than the last so I am going to bury my remaining bottles. It’s still a textured, delicious Soave with all the cut one could ask but I have a hunch the “second coming” will be better still.
Excellent.
2021 Saladini Pilastri, Pecorino - another Italian white that punches above its weight class. Some stone/clay notes amongst round, ripe yellow fruits, balanced and good sustain. Not for aging but perfect with corn ravioli or some such.
Very good.
2020 and 2021 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - certainly cut from the same cloth with more stuffing than most Beaujolais and quite well executed. The ‘20 is drinking now; the ‘21 is not. Neither will run out of steam anytime soon, but it will be hard to keep hands off as they’re delicious.
Excellent.
2021 and 2022 Cos, Frappato - both are lightweight, translucent and low alcohol; the ‘21 has a bit more punch. This is perfect summer wine and reminds me of Clairet in France. A light chill for lip-smacking goodness.
Very good.
2021 Baudry, Chinon Les Granges - speaking of summer reds, while not as light as the Cos wines; this is more sandwiches and charcuterie on a picnic table wine. A touch of oregano/fresh herb in the mouth and lovely bright fruit.
Very good.
2022 Frederic Esmonin, Bourgogne Les Genevrieres - actually from Gevrey but not entitled to the AOC; this is playful, full fruit Pinot with just enough nuance to keep it from being simple. Of course, it’s young so more complexity may emerge with time. But for now, it’s still juicy and delicious.
Very good.
2019 Pinon, Vouvray Sec - more sec-tendre to my palate but still correct to variety and well made. Those who like Demi-sec will love it but I am no fan of RS.
Good.
2020 Paul Richard, Poulsard - has knitted together better than 6 months ago to become a light to medium weight, layered and integrated Jura Poulsard, with just the right amount of funk. I suspect further cellar time will be good to this.
Very good.
2020 Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie - glorious wine; it makes you smile. A more feminine wine than the Morgons noted above but no less delectable.
Excellent.
(Aside: I thought this was a “buy every vintage” wine for me until I had the ‘21 - way to alcoholic. I still annually search out the Poncie but now I taste before I buy.)
Best, Jim
2019 D&R, Mourvèdre Evangelho - I’ve come to the conclusion that I should just write one note that tells how special this grape, from this vineyard, in these hands is and then just qualify it by saying too young, young, getting there, ready . . . etc., depending on vintage,
I’ve had this wine since it’s first vintage, multiple times for each vintage, and over that time I’ve become convinced that, for my palate, this is the most well-made, nuanced and enjoyable red wine made in CA.
Of course, D&R is no more but, thankfully, Hardy is still going strong (Yeah!)
Showing young.
Outstanding.
2021 Extradimensional, Mourvèdre Evangelho - see above; showing very young.
Outstanding.
2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Grenouilles - I have had this wine seven times since release and it’s all I will ever ask of a Chablis; perfect balance, depth, character, complexity and it is aging incrementally. A magical bottle and worthy of its Grand Cru label.
Outstanding.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Montmain - charming, brisk, with good depth and freshness. My “go to” when it’s time for quality Chablis.
Excellent.
2012 Terrane, Nebbiolo Luna Matta Vineyard - Bryan Harrington’s other label and this wine is showing well. All the dusty rose and tar of the variety but with a lighter hand. Complex and engaging.
Excellent.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy - immediately recognizable as Burgundy; the fact that it is off the Côte d’Or makes no nevermind. Firm but subtle (actually reminds me of Corton) with a core of dark fruit, mineral accents and good balance. And I’d guess it will have a shelf-life.
Excellent.
2019 Soalheiro, Alvarinho Granit - lovely, stony and fresh. Good fruit and acid reasonable depth with what I would call a “pretty” delivery. Less than $20.
Very good.
2020 Soalheiro, Alvarinho Primeiras Vinhas - not as stony as the foregoing but deeper, more saturated and better balanced. A bit of chalk accents the fresh fruit, solid structure, good acids and some length. For drinking now or later.
Excellent.
2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Temperance Hill - unique terroir is stamped on the nose and palate of this precise and juicy wine. Once again, this producer lets the earth speak. And it seems to have a nice development arc ahead.
Outstanding.
2021 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - joyful, fruit-filled, with good cut and a fine mineral core. Just the stuff to accompany a summer dinner but it will last, too. I did not buy enough.
Excellent.
2018 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - smoother and softer than the ‘21 but still balanced and joyful. No signs of fade.
Excellent.
2020 Pieropan, Soave Calvarino - this bottle was just a little less generous than the last so I am going to bury my remaining bottles. It’s still a textured, delicious Soave with all the cut one could ask but I have a hunch the “second coming” will be better still.
Excellent.
2021 Saladini Pilastri, Pecorino - another Italian white that punches above its weight class. Some stone/clay notes amongst round, ripe yellow fruits, balanced and good sustain. Not for aging but perfect with corn ravioli or some such.
Very good.
2020 and 2021 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - certainly cut from the same cloth with more stuffing than most Beaujolais and quite well executed. The ‘20 is drinking now; the ‘21 is not. Neither will run out of steam anytime soon, but it will be hard to keep hands off as they’re delicious.
Excellent.
2021 and 2022 Cos, Frappato - both are lightweight, translucent and low alcohol; the ‘21 has a bit more punch. This is perfect summer wine and reminds me of Clairet in France. A light chill for lip-smacking goodness.
Very good.
2021 Baudry, Chinon Les Granges - speaking of summer reds, while not as light as the Cos wines; this is more sandwiches and charcuterie on a picnic table wine. A touch of oregano/fresh herb in the mouth and lovely bright fruit.
Very good.
2022 Frederic Esmonin, Bourgogne Les Genevrieres - actually from Gevrey but not entitled to the AOC; this is playful, full fruit Pinot with just enough nuance to keep it from being simple. Of course, it’s young so more complexity may emerge with time. But for now, it’s still juicy and delicious.
Very good.
2019 Pinon, Vouvray Sec - more sec-tendre to my palate but still correct to variety and well made. Those who like Demi-sec will love it but I am no fan of RS.
Good.
2020 Paul Richard, Poulsard - has knitted together better than 6 months ago to become a light to medium weight, layered and integrated Jura Poulsard, with just the right amount of funk. I suspect further cellar time will be good to this.
Very good.
2020 Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie - glorious wine; it makes you smile. A more feminine wine than the Morgons noted above but no less delectable.
Excellent.
(Aside: I thought this was a “buy every vintage” wine for me until I had the ‘21 - way to alcoholic. I still annually search out the Poncie but now I taste before I buy.)
Best, Jim