TN: 20th Anniversary of Stately Kane Manor (Aug 12, 2023)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Don, Jay, Jeff, Victor

It is the 20th anniversary of the founding of Stately Kane Manor, on the Upper East Side. Many jeebi have occurred here, with many favored and storied guests. So,a celebration is in order. A few of the usuals are invited, there is the usual groaning board (thanks largely to Brad's labors), and some choice bottles.

Bacchus was in a party mood, too.

La Bernarde 2022 Cotes de Provence Rose "Les Hauts du Luc" - is it a cheap, standard-issue Provencal rose? Don't let the label fool you. It is inexpensive, but this is a GSC -- cinsault -- direct press rose with bright acidity, citrussy notes on top of strawberry and nectarine airs, but the win is a tickle of bitterness, way into the finish (maybe its licorice-y?) but it just snaps the whole thing into focus

Donnhoff 2020 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett - 77530100221, very pretty of course, all lime leaf and kumquat, but it lacks a litte bit in the acid department

Drouhin 2016 Beaune 1er "Greves" - Jay is worried that this might be shutting down... it's not: rather deep and dark for CdB but jangly acids keep it lively, the palate jumps back and forth between red raspberry and delicate brown earth, great showing

Edmunds St. John 2015 Syrah "North Canyon Road" - Steve sez; double-decanted at 2pm; here's a good one: typical syrah blue-purple fruit, youthful and grapey, but there's a red-fruit note that hums gently over it and a road-tar gurgle that rumbles gently under it; my experience of the wine varies with what I'm having with it (cheese makes the rumble show, herbs make the hum louder)

Robert Mondavi 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - sweet and mellow, plummy and enticing, rich and refined, all black fruits (and maybe a little beach ball), great bottle

Ch. Latour a Pomerol 1983 Pomerol - an elegant older Dame, in perfect balance, totally approachable with a palate complicated by fruit, flowers, and sachet; a contemplative Bordeaux for a slow evening

Ch. Latour a Pomerol 1990 Pomerol - the same but played forte: a little gravel mixed into the sachet, more willing to command rather than caress your tongue, wow wine

Foreau 1996 Vouvray Reserve Moelleux - Brad says he often finds this cuvee a little stingy compared to the demi-sec, but this bottle seems just fine to me, ripe apricots with a touch of orange rind (so not truly huge and luscious but more tangy and measured), beef broth and sugar, beautiful nose and long finish

Pinon 1989 Vouvray Reserve Passerillee - also Moelleux, surprisingly lightweight, more a cheese wine than a dessert wine, Brad writes: "It was great! Seemed less sweet than the '96 Foreau Moelleux and much more yellow-fruited than apricot, as the Foreau was."; another note

Bottleshot courtesy of Brad:
 
I was misquoted. I said the 2016 drouhin Beaune greaves is drinking beautifully now and it is my goal to drink mine before they shut down
 
A fun time, indeed and all the wines showed well. Many thanks to Jay for bringing that '91 Mondavi, as it was my spark wine back in 1994.

I still think the Foreau Moelleux needs a little more flesh to round it out. Btw, I did not get any of the beef broth that Jeff did. That would be a bad thing to me and would raise questions of storage.

Here's to twenty more years of jeebs here.
 
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