Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 11-6-23
(These are brief impressions of wines tasted over three days at a gathering of friends.)
Friday:
2022 Giacosa, Arneis - user friendly, well balanced and fleshy.
Excellent
2016 Peter Michael, Chardonnay Belle Cote - marred by oak smells and flavors with buttered popcorn thrown in. That said, others loved it.
Poor.
2018 Marc Hebrart, Champagne Special Club - a bit fuller bodied than I’m used to but delicious flavors with a fine bead.
Very good.
2017 Gerard Courbis, St. Joseph - understated but of its place and integrated. This is delicious.
Excellent.
2003 Pride, Claret Reserve - an alcoholic/oak monster.
Poor.
2017 Dom. Jasmin, Cote-Rotie - of its place, concentrated and long.
Very good.
2019 Bedrock, Zinfandel Limerick Lane - it has been many years since I’ve said anything nice about a Zin - but this wine deserves accolades - beautiful balance and flavors, nothing over done or out of place with good balance and sustain. Zin my way.
Excellent.
2016 Turley, Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge - no, just no
Poor.
2015 Ferraton, Cornas Les Eygats - needs cellar time; has promise.
Very good.
1985 Dows, Vintage Port - pretty sweet for my taste
Good.
2013 Voge, Cornas VV - a bit feral and lighter bodied than expected but still good.
Very good.
2018 SQN, Grenache Profuga - cherry milkshake with wood chips.
Poor.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaudesir - weightless power, electric smoothness, integrated complexity - pick a paradox - fantastic wine with a huge future.
Superb.
Saturday:
1995 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle - mature and resolved with the beauty and strength of great Hermitage but lacking the intensity of the best. But I’m just picking nits.
Excellent.
2015 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - more fruit than most of the old world Syrahs tasted but still plenty of complexity and structure. It seemed to hold its own even among such rarified wines with good reactions from most tasters.
2007 Chave, Hermitage - a complete wine, perfect balance, no rough edges but plenty of intensity and a great finish.
Superb.
2009 Allemand, Cornas Reynard - complex, complete, sublime, endless. As good as the AOC produces and one of the best wines tasted this weekend.
A masterpiece.
2012 Allemand, Cornas Chaillot - every bit as true to its place as the foregoing wine, complex, elegant and of whole cloth.
Superb.
2017 Dom. du Colombier, Hermitage - chunky and without finesse yet still good flavors and power. This wine felt “made” to me, as opposed to the several preceding wines, which felt “natural.” (Not the best descriptors but it’s more a feel thing than an objective assessment.)
Good.
2004 Tempier, Rose - past prime.
Fair.
2022 Clos du Garvillas, emmenez-moi au bout de terret - Terret Gris raised in concrete egg and amphora; the savory elements are the majority of the flavor profile with light citrus playing between the lines. Great acidity, mineral driven and energy like no other wine I had this weekend. Unusual but fantastic.
Superb.
2018 SQN, Aperta - it says 15.2% abv on the label and is probably more than that, I have to believe it’s been acidified, it’s a blend of several grapes including Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat, etc. and, judged by my preferences, I should hate it . . . but today is the day pigs fly - it’s terrific; flavorful and not muddy, bright but not brittle, delineated but integrated and “fresh” - as in fresh, juicy fruit. I am baffled but pleased.
Superb.
2018 Chave, Hermitage Blanc - young and angular but utterly delicious with crackling acidity, deep flavors and real complexity.
superb.
2000 Chave, Hermitage Blanc - something is amiss here; not corked but shading towards those smells and flavors.
Good.
2000 Chapoutier, Ermitage De L’Oree - there was much disagreement as to whether it was corked or not but complete agreement that it was not sound.
Bad.
2017 Stephane Robert, Saint Peray - Rousanne that shows quite young and tight but with excellent promise.
Very good.
2014 Tardieu-Laurent, Cornas VV - another “made” wine without energy or balance.
Fair.
2015 Sylvain Bernard, Cornas Cuvee H - showing young, powerful but with impressive depth and character. In ten years, this should be soaring.
Excellent.
1994 Dows, Vintage Port - too sweet for me.
1963 Warre’s, Vintage Port - while there is some sweetness here, it has stepped to the back of the bus and the fruit is now driving. Really good.
Excellent.
Sunday:
2016 Il Poggione, Brunello - this is lovely - young, but lovely. Great finesse, fruit sweet, excellent but nearly hidden structure and good depth. One for keeping but it sure was good now.
Superb.
2016 Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna de Don Peppino - light weight but fully flavored, lots of earthy accents, an almost ethereal delivery but not much finish. Perhaps, that will come in time; I really liked the wine.
Excellent.
1995 Caprai, Sagrantino 25 Anni - brutal tannins, this wine has lots of stuffing but must be drunk with fat. I love Sagrantino but this needed a chaser.
Good.
2013 Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione - ahhhhhh, Barolo; yes it’s young but it’s also well integrated with satin textures, good complexity and immense sustain. Lovely now, lovely later.
Superb.
1961 Marchesi de Barolo, Barolo - old but not dead; a little too much decay for me but it’s alive and kickin’.
Good.
2003 San Giusto a Rentennano, Percarlo - a fine wine with a suave delivery and good depth but it had some sharp edges and fairly evident tannin.
Very good.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Enz Vineyard (magnum) - still needs time but it brings some high end raspberry tartness along with some woodsy funk to the well structured Mourvèdre flavor profile. The tannins have calmed some but time will be a good thing.
Very good.
2019 Terlan, Winkl - Sauvignon Blanc from the Alto Adige that was like no other SB I’ve had. Beautiful aromatics, great cut, excellent fruit, no cat-pee/boxwood and a bright freshness that required another sip.
Superb.
2015 Quartara,, Fiano - I think this sees some skin contact and amphora and it has those edgy scents and flavors but it was a little sour for my taste.
Good.
2009 Radikon, Pinot Grigio - about as different a wine as this grape can produce - requires decanting! And then it reminds of when Tish spoke French to Gomez - it just gets your blood moving and messes with your mind. Cool stuff.
Excellent.
2003 Gravner, Berg - sticking with the analogy, Cousin It just walked in. I don’t know what this is about and it’s dwarfed by the Radikon.
Fair.
2010 Cowan Cellars, Isa - since we were fooling around with skin fermented stuff, this made good comparison. Well received by the tasters and showing pretty well despite it being 13.
Best, Jim
(These are brief impressions of wines tasted over three days at a gathering of friends.)
Friday:
2022 Giacosa, Arneis - user friendly, well balanced and fleshy.
Excellent
2016 Peter Michael, Chardonnay Belle Cote - marred by oak smells and flavors with buttered popcorn thrown in. That said, others loved it.
Poor.
2018 Marc Hebrart, Champagne Special Club - a bit fuller bodied than I’m used to but delicious flavors with a fine bead.
Very good.
2017 Gerard Courbis, St. Joseph - understated but of its place and integrated. This is delicious.
Excellent.
2003 Pride, Claret Reserve - an alcoholic/oak monster.
Poor.
2017 Dom. Jasmin, Cote-Rotie - of its place, concentrated and long.
Very good.
2019 Bedrock, Zinfandel Limerick Lane - it has been many years since I’ve said anything nice about a Zin - but this wine deserves accolades - beautiful balance and flavors, nothing over done or out of place with good balance and sustain. Zin my way.
Excellent.
2016 Turley, Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge - no, just no
Poor.
2015 Ferraton, Cornas Les Eygats - needs cellar time; has promise.
Very good.
1985 Dows, Vintage Port - pretty sweet for my taste
Good.
2013 Voge, Cornas VV - a bit feral and lighter bodied than expected but still good.
Very good.
2018 SQN, Grenache Profuga - cherry milkshake with wood chips.
Poor.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaudesir - weightless power, electric smoothness, integrated complexity - pick a paradox - fantastic wine with a huge future.
Superb.
Saturday:
1995 Jaboulet, Hermitage La Chapelle - mature and resolved with the beauty and strength of great Hermitage but lacking the intensity of the best. But I’m just picking nits.
Excellent.
2015 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - more fruit than most of the old world Syrahs tasted but still plenty of complexity and structure. It seemed to hold its own even among such rarified wines with good reactions from most tasters.
2007 Chave, Hermitage - a complete wine, perfect balance, no rough edges but plenty of intensity and a great finish.
Superb.
2009 Allemand, Cornas Reynard - complex, complete, sublime, endless. As good as the AOC produces and one of the best wines tasted this weekend.
A masterpiece.
2012 Allemand, Cornas Chaillot - every bit as true to its place as the foregoing wine, complex, elegant and of whole cloth.
Superb.
2017 Dom. du Colombier, Hermitage - chunky and without finesse yet still good flavors and power. This wine felt “made” to me, as opposed to the several preceding wines, which felt “natural.” (Not the best descriptors but it’s more a feel thing than an objective assessment.)
Good.
2004 Tempier, Rose - past prime.
Fair.
2022 Clos du Garvillas, emmenez-moi au bout de terret - Terret Gris raised in concrete egg and amphora; the savory elements are the majority of the flavor profile with light citrus playing between the lines. Great acidity, mineral driven and energy like no other wine I had this weekend. Unusual but fantastic.
Superb.
2018 SQN, Aperta - it says 15.2% abv on the label and is probably more than that, I have to believe it’s been acidified, it’s a blend of several grapes including Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat, etc. and, judged by my preferences, I should hate it . . . but today is the day pigs fly - it’s terrific; flavorful and not muddy, bright but not brittle, delineated but integrated and “fresh” - as in fresh, juicy fruit. I am baffled but pleased.
Superb.
2018 Chave, Hermitage Blanc - young and angular but utterly delicious with crackling acidity, deep flavors and real complexity.
superb.
2000 Chave, Hermitage Blanc - something is amiss here; not corked but shading towards those smells and flavors.
Good.
2000 Chapoutier, Ermitage De L’Oree - there was much disagreement as to whether it was corked or not but complete agreement that it was not sound.
Bad.
2017 Stephane Robert, Saint Peray - Rousanne that shows quite young and tight but with excellent promise.
Very good.
2014 Tardieu-Laurent, Cornas VV - another “made” wine without energy or balance.
Fair.
2015 Sylvain Bernard, Cornas Cuvee H - showing young, powerful but with impressive depth and character. In ten years, this should be soaring.
Excellent.
1994 Dows, Vintage Port - too sweet for me.
1963 Warre’s, Vintage Port - while there is some sweetness here, it has stepped to the back of the bus and the fruit is now driving. Really good.
Excellent.
Sunday:
2016 Il Poggione, Brunello - this is lovely - young, but lovely. Great finesse, fruit sweet, excellent but nearly hidden structure and good depth. One for keeping but it sure was good now.
Superb.
2016 Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna de Don Peppino - light weight but fully flavored, lots of earthy accents, an almost ethereal delivery but not much finish. Perhaps, that will come in time; I really liked the wine.
Excellent.
1995 Caprai, Sagrantino 25 Anni - brutal tannins, this wine has lots of stuffing but must be drunk with fat. I love Sagrantino but this needed a chaser.
Good.
2013 Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione - ahhhhhh, Barolo; yes it’s young but it’s also well integrated with satin textures, good complexity and immense sustain. Lovely now, lovely later.
Superb.
1961 Marchesi de Barolo, Barolo - old but not dead; a little too much decay for me but it’s alive and kickin’.
Good.
2003 San Giusto a Rentennano, Percarlo - a fine wine with a suave delivery and good depth but it had some sharp edges and fairly evident tannin.
Very good.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Enz Vineyard (magnum) - still needs time but it brings some high end raspberry tartness along with some woodsy funk to the well structured Mourvèdre flavor profile. The tannins have calmed some but time will be a good thing.
Very good.
2019 Terlan, Winkl - Sauvignon Blanc from the Alto Adige that was like no other SB I’ve had. Beautiful aromatics, great cut, excellent fruit, no cat-pee/boxwood and a bright freshness that required another sip.
Superb.
2015 Quartara,, Fiano - I think this sees some skin contact and amphora and it has those edgy scents and flavors but it was a little sour for my taste.
Good.
2009 Radikon, Pinot Grigio - about as different a wine as this grape can produce - requires decanting! And then it reminds of when Tish spoke French to Gomez - it just gets your blood moving and messes with your mind. Cool stuff.
Excellent.
2003 Gravner, Berg - sticking with the analogy, Cousin It just walked in. I don’t know what this is about and it’s dwarfed by the Radikon.
Fair.
2010 Cowan Cellars, Isa - since we were fooling around with skin fermented stuff, this made good comparison. Well received by the tasters and showing pretty well despite it being 13.
Best, Jim