Ian Fitzsimmons
Ian Fitzsimmons
Not to be compared with Florida Jim's excellent, succinct summaries, obviously, but possibly of some interest. Most of these notes are shorter than the first two.
2009 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson
6/29/2023
Like the one I opened in May, this bottle seemed a little deflated on opening. Perked up a bit with air but seemed like a wine to enjoy for its aged refinement and texture more than its flavor. When I open a 750, I generally decant half into a clean 375 bottle and drink the whole thing over four nights. The last glass of this bottle, out of the 375 on night four, was qualitatively different from the first three, as the wine spread out over the palate with a peacock's tail of burnished, golden flavors. For some reason it made me think of Klimt's "The Kiss." I was so startled I didn't note down individual flavor components, but the overall impression was of a delicious, complex mouthful. I've suspected for a while that well-made Muscadet is true vin de garde that reveals its potential only with patience, and this bottle would be exhibit A in making that case. Hard to have too much in storage.
2005 Chateau Thivin Côte de Brouilly
6/29/2023
My last bottle of this vintage, held for research purposes, and it was tremendous, distinguished entirely by sensation in the mouth and texture, bringing freshening palatte-cleansing acidity together with medium body and satisfying tannins. I decanted this bottle into a 375 on opening and drank a glass a day over four days - no sign of fatigue throughout. I'm not good with flavors and came away with no distinct impressions, just a sense of plumpness on the midpalate that wouldn't quit. Best quite cool, say, starting half an hour out of the refrigerator. An impressive Beaujolais cru wine of real stature from my favorite vigneron of the region.
2010 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros
6/29/2023
This was excellent - one of the very best Chablis I've enjoyed at any classification and plainly better than most of the Louis Michel wines - my other favorite Chablis vigneron. Classic, pure tanginess, nicely articulated, well-proportioned. Last and best bottle of four purchased on release. Not in any way past its prime, but, I think, might be approaching the far side of its plateau. Two mags remain. Picq!
2009 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes
6/29/2023
Drinking very well now. A slight artifact of the signature NSG stoniness asserts itself on opening but then cedes center stage to pleasantly plump pinot fruit nicely framed by tannic and acid structure. Very good. I think maybe drink up over the next year or two? Pretty great quality for villages; $25, I think, on release.
2009 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
5/15/2023
Very nice, lovely cherry on the midpalate, a little edge in the acidity, a little St. George stoniness, does that pretty, bendy Burgundy thing. No sign of the slightly burnt flavors I've encountered in some 2009s. Balance is quite good, nothing to distinguish this as a warm vintage wine, except a decent volume of ripeness (but in good counterpoint with the acidity). Excellent.
2007 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée 3.14
5/15/2023
From magnum. Hard to find enough superlatives to characterize this bottle. Beaujolais at 15, sizzling with fresh energy on opening, relaxing into a perfectly smooth but muscular, round wine, plump and cosseting on the mid-palate, sporting cherry and plum fruit flavors, with depth and complexity. I decanted it into four 375s and drank them over the space of about two weeks. This wine would not quit, kicking a** with each and every mouthful, showing only the very faintest sign of tiring near the end of the
2010 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
5/15/2023
This wine is far along enough to enjoy drinking now, especially if you like assertive tannins or are pairing with a fatty meat dish. Classic flavors of leather and licorice. I decanted half of my 750mm into a 375 and opened it about a week later, drinking the last glass two days after that. I found that the wine developed very well after opening - the tannins faded to black, to all intents and purposes, and the residual tertiary flavors were soothing and pleasant (though not sufficiently impressive to warrant 17 years of storage, methinks). As a pairing for a hefty dinner, in sum, good to go now. For contemplative sipping, I would say, wait a few more years. I'll be waiting.
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc La Croix Boissée
4/15/2023
Like the other bottles: good enough, unexciting. Don't know what it sells for now, but not worth the same tariff as the rouge Croix Boisee.
2009 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
3/30/2023
First of nine. The wine is balanced in a particularly satisfying way. I was hoping for a bit more oomph, as well, based on the remarkable aromatic development of a bottle opened for a blind tasting in 2013. True to the house style, a kind of classical, well-structured grace. Would not persuade me to the view, voiced in some quarters, that Ile is a potential grand cru vineyard. It does have a distinctive identity, though.
2010 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre.
3/22/2023
Excellent - classic Chablis flavors, 1er Cru depth and body, additional complexity from maturity. I wouldn't say this is near the 'edge,' but it's definitely not too early to enjoy the wine as a mature Chablis.
2011 Daniel Bouland Morgon Les Délys
3/10/2023
Much like my experience last year. Beaujolais in the stern rendition. Although I generally like highly acidic wines, this one is a bit much for me, for some reason. Likely a fork and knife wine and would show better with a red-meat entree. Trades mostly on the textural contrast between the palate-cleansing acidity and the drying, rubby tannins, so that fruit-derived flavors only show in the nooks and crannies, although the acidity does create an impression of juiciness by stimulating the saliva glands. These were $22 on release, and would not seek them out in the future, based on this showing.
2011 Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Les Garants
3/1/2023
This is zestier and more vital than the 2011 Chermette Trois Roches Moulin opened over the weekend - which was tired, likely past its peak. Still, I would say, drink up while the vitality is there. Need to check on all my other 2011 Beaujolais now, these have matured faster than I'd expected.
2011 Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches
2/27/2023
Initial impression is that it's time to drink up - still good wine, but lacks freshness and pizzaz, that spark you get in a Chermette cru bottling on its upswing. Aim to drink the last bottle this year and get into my mags next year.
2005 Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Lisagathe
2/16/2023
Well-made, pleasant to drink, hefty tannins, Cote de Beaune acidity. Best cool. Likely better with food but I don't eat dinners and, thus, was unable to judge.
2014 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre Corps de Garde Blanc
1/28/2023
This is full and delicious now out of the bottle, like a very good regional Chablis or Chitry. I think the Burgundy dude used to extol Goisot from time to time as being one of the best values in Burgundy. The quality of the cork alone indicates a vigneron that loves his/her product, however modest the pedigree.
2005 Domaine Lafouge Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins
1/28/2023
This was plump and flattering on first opening, a treat. Second day was tougher and more tannicky, curiously; it loosened up over the evening but was not the same delightful glass full of the first night. This evening it appears to be evolving in a favorable direction. A very good wine, in any event. Lafouge.
A late addendum - the last glass of this bottle, imbibed a couple of days after opening, was quite fine, flavored with leathery tertiary notes, streaked with tannins like the grain in an old piece of finished oak furniture. A wine to sip at leisure and reflect upon.
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot
1/28/2023
Consumed over three days. Very good cabernet with an edgier, more serious and complex character than the Amirault Grand Clos recently opened, tho also less immediately appealing. Almost dumb on opening but continued developing through the last glass. With another half-dozen in reserve, I'd like to wait about two more years to open another - though I doubt I'll make it past one year.
2003 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese **
1/17/2023
Very nice, almost nourishing. Still sweet but mellowly so. Not likely to improve from here imho and will drink up my remaining two bottles this or next year.
2012 Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou Vieilles Vignes
1/11/2023
Pretty good. Fine value at $25/bottle, not sure what these cost now. A little cherry, tart acidity, slightly too much tannin, but better as the wine warms. Chirpy.
2009 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
1/11/2023
From magnum. Opened for friends & neighbors at a New Year's party. Very nice, mature, tangy & saline. No sign of oxidation or excessive age. Temperature counts for a lot - drink at cool room temp for the best depth and complexity. 'Fridge temp or anything near to it strips the wine of flavor and character.
2010 Yannick Amirault Bourgueil Le Grand Clos
1/7/2023
An easy bottle to open and enjoy: tart acidity balanced by robust tannins and damson-redcurrant fruit on the midpalate. Nary a hint of capsicum, no 'green' over- or undertones. The acidity is assertive, so the wine is better for you if this is a feature you like (as I do). The plump fruit-dominated midpalate weakens over the course of the second night, causing me to speculate that it might be well to start drinking these up. I'm surprised, because I've come to think of Cab Franc from good Loire vignerons as wines with real legs that can take 15 years easily in their stride.
2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
1/5/2023
Opened by mistake, thinking it was a 2012 Sous Fretilles. Initially thin and dominated by signature sandy Pernand tannins. Over several days, glass-by-glass, it loosened up, giving more and more cherry, while retaining a high-toned, high-acid Beaune profile in general. Approachable now with a very generous airing, but I'll hang onto my other bottles for another five or ten years.
2010 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg
1/5/2023
No detailed notes, very nice to drink over several days. Austere for a Vouvray but, sec. I liked it better than many of the demis, though the complexity is less obvious, you have to search for it a bit. None the less enjoyable for the effort.
2002 Domaine Arlaud Clos de la Roche Cuvée Unique
Second of six, twenty years in. Reeks of oak. First night, a definite Drano character to the wine, with jarringly harsh, unbalanced acidity. Some vestigial signs of fruit flavors-to-be underneath the initial impact on the palate. Settles down to be a decent red Burg of, say, villages or unexciting 1er cru origin, albeit a smelly one (of wood more than grapes). Maybe a bad bottle, but roughly consistent with my note of two years ago, minus the coffee. Interested to see how this measures up tonight. Apropos the Drano thing, I had the same impression from some bottles of Sang de Cailloux many years ago, which became strikingly delicious with more cellar time, so, perhaps a particular phase of the chemical reactions that transition vins de garde through their stages of development. Similar experience also with some first-class Beaujolais.
2009 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson
6/29/2023
Like the one I opened in May, this bottle seemed a little deflated on opening. Perked up a bit with air but seemed like a wine to enjoy for its aged refinement and texture more than its flavor. When I open a 750, I generally decant half into a clean 375 bottle and drink the whole thing over four nights. The last glass of this bottle, out of the 375 on night four, was qualitatively different from the first three, as the wine spread out over the palate with a peacock's tail of burnished, golden flavors. For some reason it made me think of Klimt's "The Kiss." I was so startled I didn't note down individual flavor components, but the overall impression was of a delicious, complex mouthful. I've suspected for a while that well-made Muscadet is true vin de garde that reveals its potential only with patience, and this bottle would be exhibit A in making that case. Hard to have too much in storage.
2005 Chateau Thivin Côte de Brouilly
6/29/2023
My last bottle of this vintage, held for research purposes, and it was tremendous, distinguished entirely by sensation in the mouth and texture, bringing freshening palatte-cleansing acidity together with medium body and satisfying tannins. I decanted this bottle into a 375 on opening and drank a glass a day over four days - no sign of fatigue throughout. I'm not good with flavors and came away with no distinct impressions, just a sense of plumpness on the midpalate that wouldn't quit. Best quite cool, say, starting half an hour out of the refrigerator. An impressive Beaujolais cru wine of real stature from my favorite vigneron of the region.
2010 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros
6/29/2023
This was excellent - one of the very best Chablis I've enjoyed at any classification and plainly better than most of the Louis Michel wines - my other favorite Chablis vigneron. Classic, pure tanginess, nicely articulated, well-proportioned. Last and best bottle of four purchased on release. Not in any way past its prime, but, I think, might be approaching the far side of its plateau. Two mags remain. Picq!
2009 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes
6/29/2023
Drinking very well now. A slight artifact of the signature NSG stoniness asserts itself on opening but then cedes center stage to pleasantly plump pinot fruit nicely framed by tannic and acid structure. Very good. I think maybe drink up over the next year or two? Pretty great quality for villages; $25, I think, on release.
2009 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
5/15/2023
Very nice, lovely cherry on the midpalate, a little edge in the acidity, a little St. George stoniness, does that pretty, bendy Burgundy thing. No sign of the slightly burnt flavors I've encountered in some 2009s. Balance is quite good, nothing to distinguish this as a warm vintage wine, except a decent volume of ripeness (but in good counterpoint with the acidity). Excellent.
2007 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée 3.14
5/15/2023
From magnum. Hard to find enough superlatives to characterize this bottle. Beaujolais at 15, sizzling with fresh energy on opening, relaxing into a perfectly smooth but muscular, round wine, plump and cosseting on the mid-palate, sporting cherry and plum fruit flavors, with depth and complexity. I decanted it into four 375s and drank them over the space of about two weeks. This wine would not quit, kicking a** with each and every mouthful, showing only the very faintest sign of tiring near the end of the
2010 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
5/15/2023
This wine is far along enough to enjoy drinking now, especially if you like assertive tannins or are pairing with a fatty meat dish. Classic flavors of leather and licorice. I decanted half of my 750mm into a 375 and opened it about a week later, drinking the last glass two days after that. I found that the wine developed very well after opening - the tannins faded to black, to all intents and purposes, and the residual tertiary flavors were soothing and pleasant (though not sufficiently impressive to warrant 17 years of storage, methinks). As a pairing for a hefty dinner, in sum, good to go now. For contemplative sipping, I would say, wait a few more years. I'll be waiting.
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc La Croix Boissée
4/15/2023
Like the other bottles: good enough, unexciting. Don't know what it sells for now, but not worth the same tariff as the rouge Croix Boisee.
2009 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
3/30/2023
First of nine. The wine is balanced in a particularly satisfying way. I was hoping for a bit more oomph, as well, based on the remarkable aromatic development of a bottle opened for a blind tasting in 2013. True to the house style, a kind of classical, well-structured grace. Would not persuade me to the view, voiced in some quarters, that Ile is a potential grand cru vineyard. It does have a distinctive identity, though.
2010 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre.
3/22/2023
Excellent - classic Chablis flavors, 1er Cru depth and body, additional complexity from maturity. I wouldn't say this is near the 'edge,' but it's definitely not too early to enjoy the wine as a mature Chablis.
2011 Daniel Bouland Morgon Les Délys
3/10/2023
Much like my experience last year. Beaujolais in the stern rendition. Although I generally like highly acidic wines, this one is a bit much for me, for some reason. Likely a fork and knife wine and would show better with a red-meat entree. Trades mostly on the textural contrast between the palate-cleansing acidity and the drying, rubby tannins, so that fruit-derived flavors only show in the nooks and crannies, although the acidity does create an impression of juiciness by stimulating the saliva glands. These were $22 on release, and would not seek them out in the future, based on this showing.
2011 Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Les Garants
3/1/2023
This is zestier and more vital than the 2011 Chermette Trois Roches Moulin opened over the weekend - which was tired, likely past its peak. Still, I would say, drink up while the vitality is there. Need to check on all my other 2011 Beaujolais now, these have matured faster than I'd expected.
2011 Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches
2/27/2023
Initial impression is that it's time to drink up - still good wine, but lacks freshness and pizzaz, that spark you get in a Chermette cru bottling on its upswing. Aim to drink the last bottle this year and get into my mags next year.
2005 Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Lisagathe
2/16/2023
Well-made, pleasant to drink, hefty tannins, Cote de Beaune acidity. Best cool. Likely better with food but I don't eat dinners and, thus, was unable to judge.
2014 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre Corps de Garde Blanc
1/28/2023
This is full and delicious now out of the bottle, like a very good regional Chablis or Chitry. I think the Burgundy dude used to extol Goisot from time to time as being one of the best values in Burgundy. The quality of the cork alone indicates a vigneron that loves his/her product, however modest the pedigree.
2005 Domaine Lafouge Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins
1/28/2023
This was plump and flattering on first opening, a treat. Second day was tougher and more tannicky, curiously; it loosened up over the evening but was not the same delightful glass full of the first night. This evening it appears to be evolving in a favorable direction. A very good wine, in any event. Lafouge.
A late addendum - the last glass of this bottle, imbibed a couple of days after opening, was quite fine, flavored with leathery tertiary notes, streaked with tannins like the grain in an old piece of finished oak furniture. A wine to sip at leisure and reflect upon.
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot
1/28/2023
Consumed over three days. Very good cabernet with an edgier, more serious and complex character than the Amirault Grand Clos recently opened, tho also less immediately appealing. Almost dumb on opening but continued developing through the last glass. With another half-dozen in reserve, I'd like to wait about two more years to open another - though I doubt I'll make it past one year.
2003 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese **
1/17/2023
Very nice, almost nourishing. Still sweet but mellowly so. Not likely to improve from here imho and will drink up my remaining two bottles this or next year.
2012 Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou Vieilles Vignes
1/11/2023
Pretty good. Fine value at $25/bottle, not sure what these cost now. A little cherry, tart acidity, slightly too much tannin, but better as the wine warms. Chirpy.
2009 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
1/11/2023
From magnum. Opened for friends & neighbors at a New Year's party. Very nice, mature, tangy & saline. No sign of oxidation or excessive age. Temperature counts for a lot - drink at cool room temp for the best depth and complexity. 'Fridge temp or anything near to it strips the wine of flavor and character.
2010 Yannick Amirault Bourgueil Le Grand Clos
1/7/2023
An easy bottle to open and enjoy: tart acidity balanced by robust tannins and damson-redcurrant fruit on the midpalate. Nary a hint of capsicum, no 'green' over- or undertones. The acidity is assertive, so the wine is better for you if this is a feature you like (as I do). The plump fruit-dominated midpalate weakens over the course of the second night, causing me to speculate that it might be well to start drinking these up. I'm surprised, because I've come to think of Cab Franc from good Loire vignerons as wines with real legs that can take 15 years easily in their stride.
2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
1/5/2023
Opened by mistake, thinking it was a 2012 Sous Fretilles. Initially thin and dominated by signature sandy Pernand tannins. Over several days, glass-by-glass, it loosened up, giving more and more cherry, while retaining a high-toned, high-acid Beaune profile in general. Approachable now with a very generous airing, but I'll hang onto my other bottles for another five or ten years.
2010 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg
1/5/2023
No detailed notes, very nice to drink over several days. Austere for a Vouvray but, sec. I liked it better than many of the demis, though the complexity is less obvious, you have to search for it a bit. None the less enjoyable for the effort.
2002 Domaine Arlaud Clos de la Roche Cuvée Unique
Second of six, twenty years in. Reeks of oak. First night, a definite Drano character to the wine, with jarringly harsh, unbalanced acidity. Some vestigial signs of fruit flavors-to-be underneath the initial impact on the palate. Settles down to be a decent red Burg of, say, villages or unexciting 1er cru origin, albeit a smelly one (of wood more than grapes). Maybe a bad bottle, but roughly consistent with my note of two years ago, minus the coffee. Interested to see how this measures up tonight. Apropos the Drano thing, I had the same impression from some bottles of Sang de Cailloux many years ago, which became strikingly delicious with more cellar time, so, perhaps a particular phase of the chemical reactions that transition vins de garde through their stages of development. Similar experience also with some first-class Beaujolais.
