Changes afoot at Ridge

[MLipton]

On a whim, we stopped by the Lytton Springs outpost of Ridge Vineyards to see what they had on offer. The backstory here is that we’ve just about given up on Ridge Geyserville and Lytton Springs despite a 35-year history with those wines. In recent years they’d seemed too extracted, too oaky and not what we recalled from earlier times.
What we found there was a completely different style of wine. The proximate cause, we were told, was the recent hiring of Shauna Rosenblum (yes, that Rosenblum) to oversee winemaking at the Lytton Springs facility. Her stated goal is to produce lighter-bodied, more food-friendly wines. This was evident is the first wine. The ‘21 Pagani Ranch was a red-fruited, lively wine with fresh acidity. My previous encounters with this bottling had been almost Port-like in character: dark, brooding, highly-extracted and high ABV. Granted, the ABV on the ‘21 was still upward of 14%, but it carried it well. The same was true for the Benito Dusi (nee Dusi Ranch) from Paso. Even the Rockpile Zin, from an AVA known for making jammy fruit bombs, was far from OTT.

They weren’t tasting the Geyserville that day, but fans of ‘70s and ‘80s Ridge Zins might want to give them another look.

Mark Lipton

 

[Larry Stein]

I tasted '21 Pagani last Fall. Person who was pouring it (I know him from when I worked there) explicitly told me that it was unlike any Pagani he had ever had. It was really good, just as you described.

I'm not sure if Shauna is working with Geyserville. That wine has always been made at the Monte Bello facility. It was Eric Baugher's baby. Perhaps that's changed since he left. I do know the cellar space at Lytton Springs has been increased so maybe there's room now to make it there.

 

[Peter Creasey]

Mark, what vintage did this new process begin?

Thanks for the report.

. . . . . Pete

 

[MLipton]

originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Mark, what vintage did this new process begin?

Thanks for the report.

. . . . . Pete

Pete, Shauna was hired in Sept ‘22, so changes will date from then.

Mark Lipton

 

[MLipton]

originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Mark, what vintage did this new process begin?

Thanks for the report.

. . . . . Pete

Pete, Shauna was hired in Sept ‘22, so changes will date from then.

Mark Lipton

 

[Michael K.]

It's sorta odd that these changes are apparent in the '21s when Shauna didn't start making picking decisions until (at least) '22, no? Of course there are decisions that can be made later on - blending, for one - to nudge the wine that direction, but maybe the quality of the vintage is what you're experiencing more than the intent of the winemaker? Regardless, I'm glad to hear about the change in intent, and it makes me just a little bit sad that I canceled my (two bottle) Monte Bello membership.

 

[Jay Miller]

Thanks, it's good to know.

I stopped buying Geyserville as it had become too oaky for me in more recent years (and it was never shy on oak before that). Let me last bottle go when I was selling wine to pay vet bills.

 

[MLipton]

originally posted by Michael K.:
It's sorta odd that these changes are apparent in the '21s when Shauna didn't start making picking decisions until (at least) '22, no? Of course there are decisions that can be made later on - blending, for one - to nudge the wine that direction, but maybe the quality of the vintage is what you're experiencing more than the intent of the winemaker? Regardless, I'm glad to hear about the change in intent, and it makes me just a little bit sad that I canceled my (two bottle) Monte Bello membership.

I agree that the timing doesn’t make complete sense. Perhaps part of the explanation is that Michael Bairdsmith has been assistant winemaker since ‘14. Perhaps the change at the top emboldened him to go a different direction, or perhaps preliminary talks with Ms Rosenblum had begun earlier?

Mark Lipton

 

[Steve Edmunds]

I'd be surprised if John Olney didn't also have something to do with the "change in direction;" given his previous background working at Kermit Lynch. Anddid I read something about a Ridge Vermentino? And Grenache Blanc?

 

[mark e]

originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I'd be surprised if John Olney didn't also have something to do with the "change in direction

I would be surprised if he did, given that changes have only come very recently and he has been there a long time.

 

[Larry Stein]

originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I'd be surprised if John Olney didn't also have something to do with the "change in direction;" given his previous background working at Kermit Lynch. Anddid I read something about a Ridge Vermentino? And Grenache Blanc?

Falanghina, too. Their Grenache Blanc has been very good to excellent. I loved the '19 Halter Ranch GB from the Adelaida area of Paso Robles. 80 GB, 20 Picpoul.

 

[VLM]

This is great news! I'm especially partial to Pagani and it looks like there are 2021s available in my market but have also loved Lytton as well (and really the old Lytton Lytton).

Did you notice much oak?

Also, I've been told that the Rockpile AVA is one of the coldest in Sonoma. Kenny's (Hobo) Branham is from Rockpile.

 

[MLipton]

originally posted by VLM:
This is great news! I'm especially partial to Pagani and it looks like there are 2021s available in my market but have also loved Lytton as well (and really the old Lytton Lytton).

Did you notice much oak?

Also, I've been told that the Rockpile AVA is one of the coldest in Sonoma. Kenny's (Hobo) Branham is from Rockpile.

I should have mentioned that the oak influence in these wines was subtle. No overt glossiness or dill. Interesting what you say about Rockpile AVA as our pourer said that, based on other experiences with that AVA, customers come in expecting Ridges Rockpile to be a Monster Zin (TM).

Mark Lipton

 

[Peter Creasey]

originally posted by VLM: I'm especially partial to Pagani and it looks like there are 2021s available in my market but have also loved Lytton as well (and really the old Lytton Lytton).

Nathan, we appear to be in sync. The Pagani is my favorite as I have also bought the Lytton Springs and Geyserville every year.

. . . . . Pete

 

[Michael K.]

originally posted by VLM:
This is great news! I'm especially partial to Pagani and it looks like there are 2021s available in my market but have also loved Lytton as well (and really the old Lytton Lytton).

Did you notice much oak?

Also, I've been told that the Rockpile AVA is one of the coldest in Sonoma. Kenny's (Hobo) Branham is from Rockpile.

That's an interesting take. Rockpile is high elevation, so there's a definite diurnal shift and the nights get cold compared to Dry Creek. But it's essentially a more exposed, higher elevation extension of Dry Creek - just a bit past Preston and Unti and the like. I wouldn't call anything from that area "cold" and it certainly isn't as cool as Carneros, Sonoma Coast, or even the Russian River Valley. Rockpile can make elegant wines, but its reputation is largely wrapped up in Mauritson who owns something like 80% of the Rockpile AVA and, imo, makes sludgy, imbalanced wine. So that's probably why the folks coming into Ridge expect a monster - because most of Rockpile creates monstrous wines.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by MLipton:

originally posted by VLM:
This is great news! I'm especially partial to Pagani and it looks like there are 2021s available in my market but have also loved Lytton as well (and really the old Lytton Lytton).

Did you notice much oak?

Also, I've been told that the Rockpile AVA is one of the coldest in Sonoma. Kenny's (Hobo) Branham is from Rockpile.

I should have mentioned that the oak influence in these wines was subtle. No overt glossiness or dill. Interesting what you say about Rockpile AVA as our pourer said that, based on other experiences with that AVA, customers come in expecting Ridges Rockpile to be a Monster Zin (TM).

Mark Lipton

Great news and really helpful.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Michael K.:

originally posted by VLM:
This is great news! I'm especially partial to Pagani and it looks like there are 2021s available in my market but have also loved Lytton as well (and really the old Lytton Lytton).

Did you notice much oak?

Also, I've been told that the Rockpile AVA is one of the coldest in Sonoma. Kenny's (Hobo) Branham is from Rockpile.

That's an interesting take. Rockpile is high elevation, so there's a definite diurnal shift and the nights get cold compared to Dry Creek. But it's essentially a more exposed, higher elevation extension of Dry Creek - just a bit past Preston and Unti and the like. I wouldn't call anything from that area "cold" and it certainly isn't as cool as Carneros, Sonoma Coast, or even the Russian River Valley. Rockpile can make elegant wines, but its reputation is largely wrapped up in Mauritson who owns something like 80% of the Rockpile AVA and, imo, makes sludgy, imbalanced wine. So that's probably why the folks coming into Ridge expect a monster - because most of Rockpile creates monstrous wines.

My information is from Kenny specifically about the Branham Vineyard he utilizes. I may have misunderstood or falsely equated elevation and temperature. Whatever my error, his Zinfandels from there are vibrant, juicy, and bright. Of what I still have in my cellar, the alcohols are 12.8% (2015) and 13.1% (2017). It's like Alto Zinfandel!

Thanks for your information. I've never visited the vineyard and have very little context or understanding how the land is all stitched together.

 

[Steve Edmunds]

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I'd be surprised if John Olney didn't also have something to do with the "change in direction

I would be surprised if he did, given that changes have only come very recently and he has been there a long time.

Hmm; I would think, for a brand like Ridge, that kind of change would be something that would take a while to be thought about, and put into play.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by Steve Edmunds:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I'd be surprised if John Olney didn't also have something to do with the "change in direction

I would be surprised if he did, given that changes have only come very recently and he has been there a long time.

Hmm; I would think, for a brand like Ridge, that kind of change would be something that would take a while to be thought about, and put into play.

Could be, Steve. But Olney has been there nearly 30 years (started in '96?). However it sent a shiver to see Ridge called a brand (of course, you are correct), but I have known some of the orginal folks (Draper, Bennion, Donn Reisen and Dave Noyes) since the early 70s. They would have been horrified by the word.

 

[VLM]

The 2021 Pagani was fucking awesome and I really liked the Lytton too. Thank you for alerting me to this. Hopefully, it is part of a sustained evolution (or devolution to an older style). Notes to follow as part of a larger dump.