CWD: recent wines (2024-04)

VLM

VLM
2021 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (4/15/2024)
This disappeared in a flash. It seems to have become leaner since my last bottle if memory serves. Very open with all of the Chenin flavors you'd expect from this. Ready to go, for me. (91 points)

2021 Marziano Abbona Barbera d'Alba Rinaldi - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (4/14/2024)
Normally a reliable producer and this wine has it's positive qualities, but it's a bit clumsy and rustic compared to our favorite Barberas. I thought about it as a change of pace but think I'll look elsewhere. I can see this working really well for some folks and with richer foods and might order it at a restaurant. (86 points)

1989 Ch“teau Rausan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (4/13/2024)
Very similar in flavor profile to the last bottle back in February. Maybe a bit more sous bois and mushroom in the mix and compared to the 2001 maybe a bit more rugged. Still has lovely mature fruit and leather notes you expect with a Margaux dried rose petal tinge to the fruit. (92 points)

2001 Ch“teau Rauzan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (4/13/2024)
I found this bottle outstanding. More cut and precision than the 1989 while having a totally silky palate. The fruit is fresh and there is some floral reds in there with the currant. A bit of flint and graphite to mix with some subtle earthy notes. What a treat. (94 points)

1997 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains (4/13/2024)
As great at the two Rauzan-Séglas were, this may have been even better. Deep, dark fruit mixed with cedar, spice, leather and graphite earth. Has a mountain coolness to the fruit married with juicy richness. The tannins are mostly resolved with enough there to work with Flannery hanger steaks. Really lingers on the palate. I'm not sure if the 2010s from Mount Eden will reach the heights of these wines from the 1980s and 1990s, I hope they will. This bottle evaporated quickly. (95 points)

2007 Eric Rodez Champagne Grand Cru Empreinte de Terroir Noire - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4/13/2024)
This was more like a bottle from 2022 than the one from last year. Lots of burnished, oxidized qualities seemingly at odds with some of the palate freshness. With air it knits together but still doesn't seem totally cohesive. This has a very artisinal feel to it and loads of personality. Very vinous and deep and worked great with food. It was beguiling and perplexing. Opened for a friend who loves Champagne for his birthday and he loved it and had never had anything like it. I have no idea what the aging curve will be like with this wine, but I'll probably try one every year or two until I'm out. I'm not sure I would purchase again at the current market price but I'm really glad to be able to experience it. (92 points)

2019 Domaine de Montille Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (4/13/2024)
Rich, waxy orchard fruit but isn't overdone or too ripe. Crushed stone minerality and a nice line of acidity keeps it all together. Maybe some slight floral notes and a bit of ginger snap underneath. This is good to go now but should drink well for a while. This had a Diam 10 closure. (91 points)

2019 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru (4/13/2024)
Meursault with a Puligny soul. Bright citrus and mineral notes but with the yellow fruits of Meursault, albeit in a higher register than normal. Just the bit of almond skin around the juicy mineral finish. Although the Kermit tax has been applied and these are no bargain, these are still somewhat under-the-radar. I grabbed this as an OCB case for 35% less than my old wholesale price so deals can be found. (93 points)

2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken "Mutter Anna" #1 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4/12/2024)
Green and yellow fruits smashed in a mortar and pestle with rocks and added to a mountain spring. Delicate and elemental at the same time. Good to go unless you are looking for aged notes. I'm not. (91 points)

2021 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis Dessus La Carriere - France, Burgundy, Chablis (4/12/2024)
This was a little perplexing. It seemed rather clenched which hasn't been the case for this cuvée the last few years (maybe that's the vintage). Very stone like fruit but it seems buried underneath what others have called petrichor but to me is also a bit herbal. It's the herbal quality that is often correlated with concentration in racy whites. I think I'll leave these be for a couple of years. (89 points)

2021 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (4/10/2024)
This is the best Felsina regular CC I can remember. Fresh and lively, but with some deep fruit and leather notes. There is a mélange of some savory herb and spice note and a slight floral whiff. Not blocky like these wines can sometimes be, but more stolid than our go-to CCs from Radda. I think this vintage will go in the rotation. (91 points)

2022 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (4/10/2024)
Another very nice vintage for this wine. It's a little closed, so not showing as much as it will with a few years aging. Has the classic deep cherry fruit with savory licorice and leather accents. Has a rather lush and silky presence, despite the structure. This has been creeping up in price, but is still worth it, IMO. (90 points)

2014 Hobo Wine Company Grenache Sceales Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley (4/8/2024)
The last note I have on this is from 6 years ago and it has certainly progressed since. The wine has relaxed a little bit and the fruit now has a spicebox nuance to go along with less aggressive herbs. The red fruit has a sort of citrus edge to it and a crunchy quality. There is still structure in the form of fine tannins. I really wish Kenny still made this wine. I'll probably try a bottle every couple of years until I run out. (92 points)

2018 Fine Disregard Wine Co Grenache - USA, California, Sonoma County (4/8/2024)
A nice companion to the Hobo. This was fresh with sappy berry fruit complicated by spice and herbs. A fine line of tannin down the middle to frame the fruit, but not disrupt. I've really liked everything I've had from Fine Disregard. (90 points)

2021 Poderi Colla Barbera d'Alba Costa Bruna - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (4/7/2024)
Nice, snappy, bright, juicy straightforward Barbera in a technical style. It's about 20% less than the Paitin from the other day and also simpler, but maybe that is just age. Maybe I'll grab a couple just to see but you can't grab everything. (89 points)

2016 Ch“teau Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (4/6/2024)
I opened this in the early afternoon and followed over the day into dinner. I drink very little Bordeaux and almost none this young anymore so I lack a little context for what I was drinking. I grabbed a Montrose because I’ve been intrigued by what folks have said about the wine in recent vintages. Well, I was reminded what the word “backward” means wrt wine. It did open up over the course of the evening and worked pretty well with a ribeye. What struck me is how buried the fruit was by the structure, loads of tannin but fairly fine grained and plenty of acidity. It was really compact and unyielding the entire time, more of an intellectual exercise rather than a pleasurable one. There were moments when the fruit would linger on the palate or a note of graphite would really come to the fore and there was good mineral twang. I think folks are right, that this will be a really good wine in time. The question for me is do I want to dedicate cellar space to it or is it a wine that I can pick up in 10 years for nominally the same price. Maybe I owe it to my 2016 daughter to salt away a case. IDK, even after spending a day with this wine and discussing it with other wine people I don't feel any closer to having a great read on it. (92 points)

2021 Sandlands Zinfandel - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi (4/5/2024)
An interesting wine, for sure. The fruit has a slightly candied quality to it and an herbal edge. It drinks like a wine from sandy soil, but I don't know for sure if it is. Glad I tasted it, but it's not something I'd return to unless I happened across an aged bottle. (88 points)

2018 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbera d'Alba Superiore Campolive - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (4/3/2024)
I quite liked this. I've been auditioning more modern Barbera to complement my stash of more old school wines like Sandri and Roddolo. I can get this vintage currently in my market, which is a decided plus. It leads with the fruit which is deep and plummy but still silky and bright. Herbs and a bit of iris round it out. I think I'll be going back for more. (92 points)

2012 Roagna Barolo Pira - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (4/2/2024)
Double decanted about two hours before drinking. Sweet dark cherries in grandmothers sewing room with hints of rosewater. Decidedly svelte for Barolo, more about grace than power. I wouldn't call it explosively open either, but nearing a plateau. It seems right on the precipice of blossoming. My guess is 2-3 more years will see the structure melt to it's best balance with the other elements. This isn't a long ager, but one to drink while wines from 2010 and 2013 sleep. (92 points)

2016 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Griffe du Marquis - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (4/1/2024)
Excellent bottle. More resolved than the last one a few years back but the fruit is still vibrant and juicy. IMO, it's open season on this wine. Start drinking at will. (92 points)
 
Ch Montrose normally shows very well, especially older vintages, but sometimes seems a bit ponderous to me...a bit short on the charm element I prefer to invest in.

Thanks for the nice notes.

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by VLM:
2021 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg Ready to go, for me. (91 points)

I guess the 'for me' part is key there!

Enjoyable now is one thing, but 'ready to go' implies no reason to age further. I guess it's all about personal preferences.
 
Lots of great stuff.
Love Martelet, including the red Blagny.
I had this Rodez from 2012 recently, and it was at a different point on the curve (assuming the curve and the style are similar to 2007) where there was enough oomph to create a synergy with a somewhat oxidative style. I am not claiming synergy till the end of days in the 2012; just that the snapshot was great. This is a very tough subject that I am not even halfway through exploring let alone connecting cause and effect: some champagnes in this style have all the right components but lack the cohesion you refer to, while others are nothing short of fucking brilliant and represent, in the brut nature category, some of the greatest fizz i've ever touched regardless of pedigree or age.
By coincidence, I've been opening both 89s and 01s from the same properties in the Medoc in the past two years, so the data points on Rauzan - a great property i had somehow ignored for years but have been reacquainted with thanks to the stainless jay miller and his henchmen - are much appreciated. The 89s are better than ever, particularly in cases where they had been a touch uneven for a couple of decades, while experiences similar to yours with the 01s are not uncommon despite an occasional bottle that bitch-slaps you dramatically. The "rugged" comment is particularly intriguing as that can be attributed to both the vintage (89) on the left bank and the dirt at Rauzan, and if anything the overall silkiness of the 01 could point to its relative youth but also winemaking a.k.a. tannin management. All speculation of course; would love to taste both.
 
p.s. as a psa , and not entirely off topic given the monkey's affinity for chianti, those of you with a similar predilection should try I Fabbri CC that Chambers Street is carrying now.
you'll thank me later
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:
2021 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg Ready to go, for me. (91 points)

I guess the 'for me' part is key there!

Enjoyable now is one thing, but 'ready to go' implies no reason to age further. I guess it's all about personal preferences.

I honestly don't think it will drink better than it does now. It doesn't have the structure of it's Anjou counterparts and certainly not like immortal vintages like 1996. I'm not really interested in aging my Huet Sec any more. For example, I bought almost 3 cases of 2019 Le Mont and Bourg (50/50) and am down to 5 bottles. They're still delicious but didn't evolve like I thought they might when we tasted them together with Jayson a couple of years ago. I'm totally cool with that.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
Lots of great stuff.
Love Martelet, including the red Blagny.

Never had the red, but the whites are maybe my favorite Burgundies right now or at least up there. I guess the elevation really works for them with climate change.

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
I had this Rodez from 2012 recently, and it was at a different point on the curve (assuming the curve and the style are similar to 2007) where there was enough oomph to create a synergy with a somewhat oxidative style. I am not claiming synergy till the end of days in the 2012; just that the snapshot was great. This is a very tough subject that I am not even halfway through exploring let alone connecting cause and effect: some champagnes in this style have all the right components but lack the cohesion you refer to, while others are nothing short of fucking brilliant and represent, in the brut nature category, some of the greatest fizz i've ever touched regardless of pedigree or age.

I don't have much to add other than when these Rodez work, they scratch something in my brain that is hard for most Champagne to reach. I feel the same about Filaine, but for different reasons.

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
By coincidence, I've been opening both 89s and 01s from the same properties in the Medoc in the past two years, so the data points on Rauzan - a great property i had somehow ignored for years but have been reacquainted with thanks to the stainless jay miller and his henchmen - are much appreciated. The 89s are better than ever, particularly in cases where they had been a touch uneven for a couple of decades, while experiences similar to yours with the 01s are not uncommon despite an occasional bottle that bitch-slaps you dramatically. The "rugged" comment is particularly intriguing as that can be attributed to both the vintage (89) on the left bank and the dirt at Rauzan, and if anything the overall silkiness of the 01 could point to its relative youth but also winemaking a.k.a. tannin management. All speculation of course; would love to taste both.

It's been fun reacquainting myself with Bordeaux but that 2001 stopped me in my tracks. The 1989 has been a bottle to bottle thing, which is equally interesting. All have been good (if not corked) but some have been more refined and elegant than others. I guess the old saw about bottles vs wines.

Although I do need to reiterate that the Mount Eden was better than both and though the "scores" are close that bottle is seared in my sense memory.
 
originally posted by VLM:


I honestly don't think it will drink better than it does now. It doesn't have the structure of it's Anjou counterparts and certainly not like immortal vintages like 1996. I'm not really interested in aging my Huet Sec any more.

I'll take your word for it (and others can chime in). I don't drink all these wines in every vintage and I know they're getting more forward. In the past, CdB was always the Huet cuvee with the most structure, and in a more refined way than Anjou.

But, I do like the energy of 'drink and enjoy them now'!
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
p.s. as a psa , and not entirely off topic given the monkey's affinity for chianti, those of you with a similar predilection should try I Fabbri CC that Chambers Street is carrying now.
you'll thank me later

Those are available locally now and I've been meaning to try them, thanks for the nudge.
 
originally posted by VLM:

It doesn't have the structure of it's Anjou counterparts and certainly not like immortal vintages like 1996.

Speaking of Anjou in 2021, have you tried any '21 Anjou Blancs? I'm thinking of picking up some '21 Boudignon Clos de la Hutte and Anjou Blanc, but was kind of curious about their aging potential. If they are most likely just early-drinkers, I probably will only pick up a bottle or two.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
originally posted by VLM:

It doesn't have the structure of it's Anjou counterparts and certainly not like immortal vintages like 1996.

Speaking of Anjou in 2021, have you tried any '21 Anjou Blancs? I'm thinking of picking up some '21 Boudignon Clos de la Hutte and Anjou Blanc, but was kind of curious about their aging potential. If they are most likely just early-drinkers, I probably will only pick up a bottle or two.

I think the real answer is that no one knows because this is a new domain and a new type of wine. I'm betting yes and buy the Boudignon and I think they will mature, hopefully like Collier and Guiberteau, but it's a different spot so who knows. The nice thing is that the Boudignon drink so well young you get to have your cake and eat it too.

Funny thing is that I end up with relatively few bottles of the Anjou Blanc because the restaurant, and the local distributor, does so well with it so I get to clean up the Hutte and Frémine. Haven't seen Cerdrées locally.
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
Thanks for posting your notes -- always informative and frequently useful.

That's really great to read, thanks. I've tried to be better about getting notes into CT because I need them as a guide so I don't make the same mistakes. I also value some other folks notes in there as well, so I'm glad to be "giving back".
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
originally posted by VLM:

It doesn't have the structure of it's Anjou counterparts and certainly not like immortal vintages like 1996.

Speaking of Anjou in 2021, have you tried any '21 Anjou Blancs? I'm thinking of picking up some '21 Boudignon Clos de la Hutte and Anjou Blanc, but was kind of curious about their aging potential. If they are most likely just early-drinkers, I probably will only pick up a bottle or two.

I think the real answer is that no one knows because this is a new domain and a new type of wine. I'm betting yes and buy the Boudignon and I think they will mature, hopefully like Collier and Guiberteau, but it's a different spot so who knows. The nice thing is that the Boudignon drink so well young you get to have your cake and eat it too.

Funny thing is that I end up with relatively few bottles of the Anjou Blanc because the restaurant, and the local distributor, does so well with it so I get to clean up the Hutte and Frémine. Haven't seen Cerdrées locally.

Thank you. I appreciate your thoughts.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
p.s. as a psa , and not entirely off topic given the monkey's affinity for chianti, those of you with a similar predilection should try I Fabbri CC that Chambers Street is carrying now.
you'll thank me later

Those are available locally now and I've been meaning to try them, thanks for the nudge.

I second the rec. They’re very good and even bottle in fiasco if you are short on candle holder ambiance.

Always enjoy the notes. Thanks.
 
Thanks for the chianti notes, Monkey. It can be a hit-or-miss category (too many makers) so glad to have some definite notes.

Sasha, noted.
 
Re Chérisey, I love the wines. They are expensive in Paris; in fact, looking at wine-searcher, Paris may be the most expensive place in the world to buy them, an astonishing situation, if true.
 
originally posted by VLM:


2021 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (4/10/2024)
This is the best Felsina regular CC I can remember. Fresh and lively, but with some deep fruit and leather notes. There is a mélange of some savory herb and spice note and a slight floral whiff. Not blocky like these wines can sometimes be, but more stolid than our go-to CCs from Radda. I think this vintage will go in the rotation. (91 points)
I, too, like this vintage of Fèlsina, but when you say "more stolid than our go-to CCs," which are you referring to? Istine? They are in Radda, 'course.

I also drink a fair amount of CC and 90% of it comes from Istine. You have to be patient with the single-vineyard bottlings but the reg is generally great.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Re Chérisey, I love the wines. They are expensive in Paris; in fact, looking at wine-searcher, Paris may be the most expensive place in the world to buy them, an astonishing situation, if true.

Ha, the French may not have a word for entrepreneur, but perhaps they have one for arbitrage.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by VLM:


2021 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (4/10/2024)
This is the best Felsina regular CC I can remember. Fresh and lively, but with some deep fruit and leather notes. There is a mélange of some savory herb and spice note and a slight floral whiff. Not blocky like these wines can sometimes be, but more stolid than our go-to CCs from Radda. I think this vintage will go in the rotation. (91 points)
I, too, like this vintage of Fèlsina, but when you say "more stolid than our go-to CCs," which are you referring to? Istine? They are in Radda, 'course.

I also drink a fair amount of CC and 90% of it comes from Istine. You have to be patient with the single-vineyard bottlings but the reg is generally great.

Mark, can you elaborate on the difference between Istine and Radda (if it's possible to generalize)?
 
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