Pizza Wines TNs -- 8/24/24

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
Had a pizza brunch with Mark A., Larry S., Christian M., and others in Berkeley this weekend. Wines showed well and the pizzas were even better. Brief TNs below:

2019 Vajra Barolo Coste di Rose: This is the second time I've had this in the past two weeks, and this was shockingly open and approachable (this was popped and poured). Yes, there is a bit of a tannic bite, but I still get plenty of intense, dark red fruit, a bit of earth and mushroom, and beautiful rose/floral aromatics.

At the tasting two weeks ago, I had this next to the '19 Bricco delle Viole and Ravera, with the Ravera definitely closed and needing a decant and the BdV more shut down than when I had it last year, but still somewhat giving at this stage. Perhaps I caught the Coste di Rose at a good time or maybe it was just this batch of bottles, but this was just a beautiful showing.

2015 B. Mascarello Barbera d'Alba: My favorite wine to have with the pizzas. We were out in the sun, so thankfully this wine was served chilled, showing nice balance and well-judged acidity that was not overly aggressive. In some ways, perhaps the least complex of the red wines, but the one that best fit the occasion.

2015 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino: Probably the most intense and "biggest" of the reds, though not over-bearing or gloopy. I didn't spend too much time focusing on this wine, but I remember the tannins being firm, the acidity sufficient, and the red sour cherry fruit being ample.

2013 Edmunds St. John Rocks and Gravel: A stark difference between the three Italian reds, this was comparatively lean, but well-balanced, delicious, and refreshing. A really nice wine.

2017 Petronius Trebbiano Vinho Branco Espumante Natural Brut: A Brazilian sparkling wine. It was surprisingly drinkable. I liked it.

With respect to the pizzas, my favorite was the Pizzeria de Laura Margherita with its light, fluffy crust and flavorful toppings.

The toppings and sauce from Rose Pizzeria (mushroom and burrata puttanesca) had more intense flavors, but unfortunately the crust got a little soft during transport to the house. I'm not sure if this was wood-fired or not, but this was close in style to a Neapolitan.

Gioia mushroom and Margherita were both very good -- the crispiest crust out of the three. Closest thing to a football pizza out of the three. I will say that the Berkeley Gioia was better than the slices I have had at Hayes Valley.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
... Closest thing to a football pizza out of the three...

Never heard that term before. Funny stuff.

There was a lot of conversation about which pizza would be most appropriate for a 49ers game. I think the Gioia was the consensus winner. Others may disagree and chime in.
 
Suffice it to say, Yule is nailing the consensus.

Gioia was very good but outclassed by Pizzeria da Laura & Rose Pizzeria.
For watching football games with friends, Gioia is the best choice as the pizza takes the back seat to the game and friends.
But if the focus is food and wine and friends, then Rose and Laura are the choice. They were great.
my fave was the Rose mushroom, with the Laura Margherita & Mushroom tying closely behind for second. The next grouping was the Laura sausage and Rose She Wolf (burrata, tomato sauce, garlic confit, olives, capers,sicilian oregano).

If forced to eat at only one of the pizzerias for remainder of time on earth, the group seemed to evenly split between Laura and Rose. But I defer to Yule's accounting for more accurate polling.

Mascarello's Barbera was simply a happy wine, a drink and smile reflex. The other reds sought a bit more attention. Thus I too felt that even though the Barbera was the most straight forward, it was the best wine with the pizzas.
I was surprised how lean the John wine was, but piercing fruit made it a delicious moment.
The Brunello was good in its own fashion, but a bit too powerful and dense for pairing with pizza. Excellent wine in search of its food companion.
I am humbled to say how enjoyable the Vajra was. Perfume of the wine was great with clearly defined fruit and balance. I do wonder if the vineyard work & elevage etc has changed since I tasted at the winery back in 2012, as it seemed clearly different in style. I am now collecting all 23 of my 1989-2001 Giacosa Riservas to sell for $50 each so I can go long on 2019 Vajra!!
 
Chiming in, I actually preferred the Gioia for mushroom pizza, I think the preliminary oven roasting of the mushrooms gives more of that woodsy flavor. One of the other mushroom pizzas (can't remember which) had a decadent creamy sauce (mascarpone added?) that seemed overly rich for the weather, but maybe made it the best winter mushroom pizza. All in all very close and we are spoiled for NY style pizza in Berkeley.

Wine-wise, I thought the Brazilian sparkler was very simple but refreshing and balanced, a pleasant aperitif, almost a substitute for mineral water.

The ESJ was all about jolly fruit, remarkably youthful.

The Barbera was quintessential pizza wine, fine balance of acid, fruit, and that hint of tomato leaf that does the trick.

The Brunello had a terrific maturing aroma with Sangio fruit, chicory and a hint of earth and wood, but the structural intensity of acid & tannin was intimidating. Kind of like visiting a restored house with a beautiful exterior, but when you enter the house it's still down to the studs and joists.

The Vajra Barolo was gorgeous, no need for more adjectives, you get the idea. Surprisingly open for such a young Barolo, and the 2019 vintage. Terrific with the mushroom pizzas.

A fun concept and luncheon, thanks to all who contributed. What's next - battle of the Biryanis? Soba smackdown? Momo madness? Ribs riot?
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
Chiming in... I think the preliminary oven roasting of the mushrooms gives more of that woodsy flavor.

Yes, I always cook my vegetables before adding them to pizza. Especially mushrooms.
 
My turn, at least on the food.

I agree with Yule, the Laura Margherita was the POTD. One of the others added sliced tomatoes. Nothing wrong with that, but those shouldn't be added to a Margherita. My favorite mushroom was the one that as Christian described had the creamy sauce. I also liked the Burrata Puttanesca. That and the mushroom (Rose?) were neck and neck

I felt if you could put the Rose toppings on the Laura crust, that would've been the ideal pizza.

Don't have more to add to the wine descriptions. I very much enjoyed the Barbera as I find the majority of wines made from that grape to be overly screechy, acidity-wise. Those wines are disjointed to me. Mascarello wasn't. Mark also recommended Cappellano. Are there others similar to those (and maybe less expensive)?

I brought the ESJ. I normally don't drink Steve's wines that young. I typically have purchased his wines in quantities of 4. I had a 5th bottle of this so I figured what the hell.

A very fun day!
 
Barbera is always the perfect match for pizza. Especially Cogno’s pre-phylloxera bottling. Down to my last two bottles of the 2016. K&L has the 2021 in stock. One of you Bay Area disorderlies should try one for me.
 
originally posted by maureen:
Barbera is always the perfect match for pizza. Especially Cogno’s pre-phylloxera bottling. Down to my last two bottles of the 2016. K&L has the 2021 in stock. One of you Bay Area disorderlies should try one for me.

I was going to buy some from K&L, but looks like they just sold out. I will definitely keep an eye out!

Thank you for the recommendation!
 
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