A Trip to Italy

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
Coming up soon. There is no time for oeno-tourism, alas, but there is always time for dinner. So, if anyone has a recommendation, I'm listening:
Naples
Sorrento
Palermo
Catania

Thanks.
 
I use the Slow Food app called Osterie d'Italia, which is now also in English. They only review places they like, geographically organized and easy to use.
 
In Catania I liked Me Cumpari Turiddu a few years ago. Still listed with a bIb in the Michelin so might be worth try. Traditional dishes a bit freshened up and they also sell great Sicilian ingredients to take home.
In Catania one really needs to go to the market very early in the morning, wonderful atmosphere. My favorite is the tripe dealer presenting his different wares on a carousel like contraption we usually see for scarves.

Also, are you limited to the cities proper?
 
originally posted by georg lauer:
In Catania I liked Me Cumpari Turiddu a few years ago. Still listed with a bIb in the Michelin so might be worth try. Traditional dishes a bit freshened up and they also sell great Sicilian ingredients to take home.
In Catania one really needs to go to the market very early in the morning, wonderful atmosphere. My favorite is the tripe dealer presenting his different wares on a carousel like contraption we usually see for scarves.
Thanks for the name and for the, ahem, AM entertainment.

Also, are you limited to the cities proper?
We won't have a car so basically yes.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
I use the Slow Food app called Osterie d'Italia, which is now also in English. They only review places they like, geographically organized and easy to use.
Ooh, yes, thank you for the reminder.
 
originally posted by georg lauer:
A google map (in German) from somebody I really trust in all things food who lived in Napoli for a few years recently
Thanks, Georg. This will require a lot of reading and automatic translations.... But it does look thorough and you say there are good things here
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
My experience with the recommendations of the Austrian Wine and Food publication Falstaff is highly positive, especially for getting you to restaurants that have both good food and good wine. Their Naples list is here: https://www.falstaff.com/en/rf/lr/cso/italy/campania/napoli
This looks very promising. Thank you, Claude.
One thing, I don't know how up to date it is. Their Paris page is at least a few years old, but the suggestions for Rome earlier this year were really good and it also looks good for an upcoming Lyon trip.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by georg lauer:
A google map (in German) from somebody I really trust in all things food who lived in Napoli for a few years recently
Thanks, Georg. This will require a lot of reading and automatic translations.... But it does look thorough and you say there are good things here

I can pick out some if you tell me what you are most interested.
To me these recommendations are alike to what I find on wine here on this bored. Falstaff is ok if one has little access to information but a bit more like the wine spectator.
 
A couple of years ago on the tail end of two weeks in Positano we tackled a couple of days in Naples. Of course, it turned out to be the only days it rained on the entire trip. As in New York the umbrella hawkers come out and an escape to a local museum found it closed due to roof leaks. That aside, we had a wonderful evening at JUS. Set more or less on an alley near the water with tables that spill into the alley. Pick your bottle from the shelves or ask for recommendations. The food, small plates/tapas, was very good and a step up from the heavy street food of Naples. I don't know if I would try to make a dinner out of the menu but after a lunch of deep-fried mac and cheese, it hit the right note.
 
I enjoyed Catania a lot more than the guidebooks suggest you will. My one suggestion is to make sure you check out Pasticceria Savia just as a general vibe check. Food and sweets are good. You sit outside on a terrace across from a park on one of the main streets.

We drove through a not totally nice part of town that appeared to feature lots of open air grilling. If I went back I would totally want to investigate that. It looks like Katie Parla might have a piece on it but her website looks down.
 
originally posted by georg lauer:
I can pick out some if you tell me what you are most interested.
Thanks for the offer! My partner would most like a seafood place; I would take a place with decent wine and a menu of things characteristic of the city.

We are staying a few blocks south of the Duomo, rather (too) near the Via Marina.
 
originally posted by JasonA:
Jus Enoteca NaturaleA couple of years ago on the tail end of two weeks in Positano we tackled a couple of days in Naples. Of course, it turned out to be the only days it rained on the entire trip. As in New York the umbrella hawkers come out and an escape to a local museum found it closed due to roof leaks. That aside, we had a wonderful evening at JUS. Set more or less on an alley near the water with tables that spill into the alley. Pick your bottle from the shelves or ask for recommendations. The food, small plates/tapas, was very good and a step up from the heavy street food of Naples. I don't know if I would try to make a dinner out of the menu but after a lunch of deep-fried mac and cheese, it hit the right note.
Thank you. Noted. I also found it on this little list of wine bars.
 
originally posted by Jason D:
I enjoyed Catania a lot more than the guidebooks suggest you will. My one suggestion is to make sure you check out Pasticceria Savia just as a general vibe check. Food and sweets are good. You sit outside on a terrace across from a park on one of the main streets.

We drove through a not totally nice part of town that appeared to feature lots of open air grilling. If I went back I would totally want to investigate that. It looks like Katie Parla might have a piece on it but her website looks down.
That looks wonderful. I very much enjoy spending time at a little table with a caffe and a little something sweet to nibble on. (I have very fond memories of doing just that in Paris and in Antwerp. Oh, and Paris in a different arrondissement and Perugia.)
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by georg lauer:
I can pick out some if you tell me what you are most interested.
Thanks for the offer! My partner would most like a seafood place; I would take a place with decent wine and a menu of things characteristic of the city.

We are staying a few blocks south of the Duomo, rather (too) near the Via Marina.

I have had some very good meals at Osteria Antica Marina, which is right next to the main seafood market in Catania. I can't speak for the wine list, although by now there should at least be some good white wines from Etna.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
I have had some very good meals at Osteria Antica Marina, which is right next to the main seafood market in Catania. I can't speak for the wine list, although by now there should at least be some good white wines from Etna.
Added to my notes. Thanks! The fish market is a 20 minute walk from our hotel so very doable.
 
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