Christian Miller (CMM)
Christian Miller
First, since Georg included this store in his excellent recommendations, a few wines tasted at Concept Riesling in the delightful Carlplatz market of Dusseldorf.
Gelb Muskateller Ptalz Burweiler 2022, Victoria Legenmuller - med strength aroma with jasmine floral tone, lichee fruit; med-light body, fresh intense lichee/white nectarine fruit, lowish acid, med length, Kabinett level RS. Borders on cloying, but impressive lively intensity of fruit. ***/****
Riesling Ahr Altenahr von den Terassen 2023, Sermann - pine/terpene green apple Riesling nose; med light body, vigorous acidity, dry with some extract, structured, decent length. ***(*?)
Pinot Noir Ahr Trotzenberg 2022, Sermann - medium scarlet; moderate aroma with cran-cherry fruit, touch of spice; med-light body, moderate but hard tannin with stony fruit, structured, Campari-like bitterness, lacks charm. **(*?)
The friendly and informative Geschaftsführerender of Concept Riesling, Björn Schwetheln, was manning the booth when I visited. He gave me a quick verbal and visual tour of the Ahr (they have a nice screen setup at the market with images of regions and producers). Ahr isn't known for Riesling, but based on this sample can do it well. It is known for Pinot Noir. This one wasn't my cup of tea. Bjorn is fond of it as what he called a classic, traditional Ahr style, but admitted it's not for everyone.
I'm not reporting everything I tasted at Prowein, just the wines that might interest disorderlies.
I met the charming, funny and very sharp Koni Maliehe, who left corporate HR management to start her own wine brand. The labels are beautiful and the wines superb value. Now is not the moment, with the tariff insanity in full swing, but someone should pick up this brand for the U.S. She currently ships to several EU countries and UK.
Chenin Blanc South Africa Paarl 2023, Koni - very good fruit and balance, med body, long classic SA finish with baked apple and earth/hot stones. ***+
Pinotage South Africa Paarl 2022, Koni - I'm not usually a Pinotage fan, but this one has lively fruit, moderate berry flavor, doesn't have that burnt-herb/vegetal note, it's rather Rhonish in style. ***
Merlot South Africa Paarl 2022, Koni - light color with hint of brick, very smooth, mild but varietal flavor with hints of tea, velvetty tannins, almost PN-like weight and structure. Very appealing to casual consumers I suspect. ***
The Lubanzi stand was less interesting than I'd hoped, but kudos to them for their canned line (nice packaging and value) and this 2023 Petnat of Cinsault from the Swartland - interesting aroma of strawberry fruit macerated in yeasty cider; med-light body, rather dry, a bit austere in the finish but has charm and interest. ***+
Chatting with the export director for New Zealand wines, I asked her to direct me to a winery doing things differently and very well. She sent me to the Rapaura Springs booth to taste their Rohe brand. A great tip, they are making superb wines.
Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Dillons Point 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - Incredibly aromatic with passion fruit at the core, complexed with tinges of lemongrass, appleskin, floral notes; medium body, intense succulent flavor, good acidity, good length. A very different and impressive SB, they credit the vineyard of riverbed deposits, close and open to the ocean. ****+
Chardonnay Marlborough Awatere Valley 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - smooth, pure fruit, medium body and well balanced, pretty good length. A bit reminiscent of good quality Monterey Chardonnay. ***+
Chardonnay Marlborough Omaka Valley Bouldevines vnyd 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - fresh green apple Chardonnay with a distinctive smoky-gunflint note, a bit like Chablis or even Sauvignon de St Bris; medium body, background oak, quite long. ****
Chardonnay Marlborough Southern Valley 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - more fresh and pure appley Chardonnay fruit, but with some oak framing, vigorous acidity and a tangy stony density. Like a cross between Monterey Chardonnay and young Corton-Charlemagne. Impressive. ***(*)
I am very interested in co-ops, and have a soft spot for underdog regions, so a co-op in an obscure appellation is catnip to me. Several of the wines from Cave de Gan in Bearn/Jurançon impressed me greatly, and of course good value. Another good value producer screaming for an importer.
Jurançon sec "Influence" 2024, Cave de Gan Bearn - Very fresh and tangy, med-light body, crisp and dry with a hint of leafiness, good oyster wine. ***
Jurançon "Gaston Febus" 2024, Cave de Gan Bearn - Traditional off-dry style with distinct leafy tone, med body, decent acid, fairly long with slight sweetness. 100% Gros Manseng. ****
Jurançon estate Ch. De Navailles 2021, Ch. De Navailles (Cave de Bearn) - Wow, exotic and complex with honey-tinged melon fruit plus notes of wool and winter squash; med-full body, rich flavor, decent acid, long finish. 100% Petit Manseng ****
Bearn Rouge "Grains de Bearn" 2023, Cave de Gan Bearn - vigorous current-dark berry fruit with a hint of tarragon, med body, framed in med dry tannins, good balance and length. Like a Chinon that plays pro rugby. Blend of Cab Franc and Tannat. ***(*)
Among the Slovenian stands, Puklavec stood out. They have a huge range with several brands, including some widely distributed wines. Most are good quality or good value, but their skill with sparkling wines in multiple styles and prices, and some of the higher end whites, really impressed me.
Slovenia Penina Classic Method NV, Jeruzalem Ormoz (Puklavec) - Mostly Furmint with some Muscat and Gewurz; charming fruit, tasty with nice texture, smooth, fine mousse/fruit, mouthfeel like the best Prosecco; decent length, off-dry. Charmat method. A steal at 7-8 Euros retail ***/****
Slovenia Penina Estate Brut Nature NV, Puklavec - Dry, aggressive mousse, similar in character to Domaine Chandon or Mumm Californian Methode Champenoise wines, PN & Chard, 36 months en tirage but not as yeasty as you'd expect, mostly 2020 vintage. ***
Slovenia Penina Chipon "C'est Bon" NV, Jeruzalem Ormoz (Puklavec) - leesy yeasty nose with good fruit; creamy, delicious palate, off-dry, good length. 17 months bottle aging after fermentation, mostly Furmint. ****
Furmint Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske 7 Numbers estate 2021, Puklavec - complex aroma with grassy, bruised apple and fino notes; med-full body, good acid, good length. Fermented and aged in mix of big casks, acacia and stainless steel. ****
Sauvignon Blanc Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske 7 Numbers estate 2021, Puklavec - mild oak, fairly well integrated. Not my preferred style, but well done in a balanced Graves mode. 30% aged in barriques. ***
White Blend Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske Estate "cuvée 34" 2021, Puklavec - complex aroma with rain on hot stones, wet wool hint, peach/apricot; very soft, smooth and creamy texture, lowish acid. Offered in best vintages only, a blend of 6 varieties. ****
Furmint Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske Estate "Spatlese" 1988, Puklavec - med brassy color; honey, Meyers lemon, Seville orange notes in aroma; still somewhat lively on palate, with similar flavors; slightly tactile feel on palate; 2.5% RS but feels off-dry due to aging and high acidity. Old but still good, a remarkable exotic wine. ****
I'll post my Schloss Vollrads and Breuer visit notes later.
Gelb Muskateller Ptalz Burweiler 2022, Victoria Legenmuller - med strength aroma with jasmine floral tone, lichee fruit; med-light body, fresh intense lichee/white nectarine fruit, lowish acid, med length, Kabinett level RS. Borders on cloying, but impressive lively intensity of fruit. ***/****
Riesling Ahr Altenahr von den Terassen 2023, Sermann - pine/terpene green apple Riesling nose; med light body, vigorous acidity, dry with some extract, structured, decent length. ***(*?)
Pinot Noir Ahr Trotzenberg 2022, Sermann - medium scarlet; moderate aroma with cran-cherry fruit, touch of spice; med-light body, moderate but hard tannin with stony fruit, structured, Campari-like bitterness, lacks charm. **(*?)
The friendly and informative Geschaftsführerender of Concept Riesling, Björn Schwetheln, was manning the booth when I visited. He gave me a quick verbal and visual tour of the Ahr (they have a nice screen setup at the market with images of regions and producers). Ahr isn't known for Riesling, but based on this sample can do it well. It is known for Pinot Noir. This one wasn't my cup of tea. Bjorn is fond of it as what he called a classic, traditional Ahr style, but admitted it's not for everyone.
I'm not reporting everything I tasted at Prowein, just the wines that might interest disorderlies.
I met the charming, funny and very sharp Koni Maliehe, who left corporate HR management to start her own wine brand. The labels are beautiful and the wines superb value. Now is not the moment, with the tariff insanity in full swing, but someone should pick up this brand for the U.S. She currently ships to several EU countries and UK.
Chenin Blanc South Africa Paarl 2023, Koni - very good fruit and balance, med body, long classic SA finish with baked apple and earth/hot stones. ***+
Pinotage South Africa Paarl 2022, Koni - I'm not usually a Pinotage fan, but this one has lively fruit, moderate berry flavor, doesn't have that burnt-herb/vegetal note, it's rather Rhonish in style. ***
Merlot South Africa Paarl 2022, Koni - light color with hint of brick, very smooth, mild but varietal flavor with hints of tea, velvetty tannins, almost PN-like weight and structure. Very appealing to casual consumers I suspect. ***
The Lubanzi stand was less interesting than I'd hoped, but kudos to them for their canned line (nice packaging and value) and this 2023 Petnat of Cinsault from the Swartland - interesting aroma of strawberry fruit macerated in yeasty cider; med-light body, rather dry, a bit austere in the finish but has charm and interest. ***+
Chatting with the export director for New Zealand wines, I asked her to direct me to a winery doing things differently and very well. She sent me to the Rapaura Springs booth to taste their Rohe brand. A great tip, they are making superb wines.
Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Dillons Point 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - Incredibly aromatic with passion fruit at the core, complexed with tinges of lemongrass, appleskin, floral notes; medium body, intense succulent flavor, good acidity, good length. A very different and impressive SB, they credit the vineyard of riverbed deposits, close and open to the ocean. ****+
Chardonnay Marlborough Awatere Valley 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - smooth, pure fruit, medium body and well balanced, pretty good length. A bit reminiscent of good quality Monterey Chardonnay. ***+
Chardonnay Marlborough Omaka Valley Bouldevines vnyd 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - fresh green apple Chardonnay with a distinctive smoky-gunflint note, a bit like Chablis or even Sauvignon de St Bris; medium body, background oak, quite long. ****
Chardonnay Marlborough Southern Valley 2023, Rohe (Rapaura Springs) - more fresh and pure appley Chardonnay fruit, but with some oak framing, vigorous acidity and a tangy stony density. Like a cross between Monterey Chardonnay and young Corton-Charlemagne. Impressive. ***(*)
I am very interested in co-ops, and have a soft spot for underdog regions, so a co-op in an obscure appellation is catnip to me. Several of the wines from Cave de Gan in Bearn/Jurançon impressed me greatly, and of course good value. Another good value producer screaming for an importer.
Jurançon sec "Influence" 2024, Cave de Gan Bearn - Very fresh and tangy, med-light body, crisp and dry with a hint of leafiness, good oyster wine. ***
Jurançon "Gaston Febus" 2024, Cave de Gan Bearn - Traditional off-dry style with distinct leafy tone, med body, decent acid, fairly long with slight sweetness. 100% Gros Manseng. ****
Jurançon estate Ch. De Navailles 2021, Ch. De Navailles (Cave de Bearn) - Wow, exotic and complex with honey-tinged melon fruit plus notes of wool and winter squash; med-full body, rich flavor, decent acid, long finish. 100% Petit Manseng ****
Bearn Rouge "Grains de Bearn" 2023, Cave de Gan Bearn - vigorous current-dark berry fruit with a hint of tarragon, med body, framed in med dry tannins, good balance and length. Like a Chinon that plays pro rugby. Blend of Cab Franc and Tannat. ***(*)
Among the Slovenian stands, Puklavec stood out. They have a huge range with several brands, including some widely distributed wines. Most are good quality or good value, but their skill with sparkling wines in multiple styles and prices, and some of the higher end whites, really impressed me.
Slovenia Penina Classic Method NV, Jeruzalem Ormoz (Puklavec) - Mostly Furmint with some Muscat and Gewurz; charming fruit, tasty with nice texture, smooth, fine mousse/fruit, mouthfeel like the best Prosecco; decent length, off-dry. Charmat method. A steal at 7-8 Euros retail ***/****
Slovenia Penina Estate Brut Nature NV, Puklavec - Dry, aggressive mousse, similar in character to Domaine Chandon or Mumm Californian Methode Champenoise wines, PN & Chard, 36 months en tirage but not as yeasty as you'd expect, mostly 2020 vintage. ***
Slovenia Penina Chipon "C'est Bon" NV, Jeruzalem Ormoz (Puklavec) - leesy yeasty nose with good fruit; creamy, delicious palate, off-dry, good length. 17 months bottle aging after fermentation, mostly Furmint. ****
Furmint Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske 7 Numbers estate 2021, Puklavec - complex aroma with grassy, bruised apple and fino notes; med-full body, good acid, good length. Fermented and aged in mix of big casks, acacia and stainless steel. ****
Sauvignon Blanc Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske 7 Numbers estate 2021, Puklavec - mild oak, fairly well integrated. Not my preferred style, but well done in a balanced Graves mode. 30% aged in barriques. ***
White Blend Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske Estate "cuvée 34" 2021, Puklavec - complex aroma with rain on hot stones, wet wool hint, peach/apricot; very soft, smooth and creamy texture, lowish acid. Offered in best vintages only, a blend of 6 varieties. ****
Furmint Slovenia Ljutomersko-Ormoske Estate "Spatlese" 1988, Puklavec - med brassy color; honey, Meyers lemon, Seville orange notes in aroma; still somewhat lively on palate, with similar flavors; slightly tactile feel on palate; 2.5% RS but feels off-dry due to aging and high acidity. Old but still good, a remarkable exotic wine. ****
I'll post my Schloss Vollrads and Breuer visit notes later.