2021 Ca' Del Baio (October 2024)

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
I went to a Ca’ del Baio tasting with Federica Grasso in October 2024 where she mainly presented the winery’s 2021 Barbaresco (as well as a 2019 Riserva and a 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo). Federica said that she felt Ca’ del Baio’s 2021s were superior to the 2016s, which she had considered the winery’s best vintage in the past 10 years. Personally, I felt that the wines were generally very pure and accessible. I particularly liked the tension and citric quality of their 2021 Treiso wines (Autinbej and Vallegrande). In contrast, I thought the 2021 Asili was perhaps a touch too plush for my taste while the 2019 Asili Riserva was not ready for primetime with its sheen of polish and woodiness to it.

Frederica was also quite transparent about the elevage of the Ca’ del Baio wines: all three of the non-riserva Barbarescos are aged in 2000-5000 liter used Slavonian oak botte now, including the Asili. One exception is the '19 Ca' del Baio Asili Riserva, which is aged in tonneaux (I think she said 800 liters) because they don’t have enough of it to put into botte.

2023 Ca' del Baio Langhe Nebbiolo: More cherry than roses on the nose. Firm, drying tannins, but mostly juicy fruit on the palate. Very tannic. Apparently this sees carbonic maceration in stainless steel tank.

2021 Ca' del Baio Barbaresco Autinbej: An expressive, high-toned nose balanced between aromas of dark cherry and roses. Fruit is quite understated, and there's plenty of freshness and tangy acidity. While silky on the initial attack and mid-palate, the drying quality of the tannins builds on the slightly spiced finish.

2021 Ca' del Baio Barbaresco Vallegrande: The nose has a touch of balsamic layered over the top of the aromas of cherry and roses. While silky texturally, there's a nervy quality to the acidity (which I find often in wines from Treiso terroirs). Incisive and sharp, with drying tannins coating the surface of the mouth, the wine is primarily about the structure and bright acid, with just an undertone of red fruit and citrusy lime zest flavors to soften the palate. Quite good, though many may find this a bit austere.

2021 Ca' del Baio Barbaresco Asili: This seems a little tight on the nose, but the palate has forward, dark red fruit. There's a slight ashy quality on the finish, but the wine overall has a spherical quality texturally, a wine of breadth, but also elegance. This definitely needs more time than the Vallegrande.

2019 Ca' del Baio Barbaresco Riserva Asili: This a big boy. The nose is powerful, but there's also a subtle hint of wood on it. Very silky, very round, with ripe and rich dark red fruit saturating the palate. This is intense and concentrated and needs a lot of time. Not particularly enjoyable at this moment.
 
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