The interesting Mosel wines (Tennstedt, Heymann-Löwenstein)

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
Tonight was the more interesting side of the Mosel. 2020 Jakob Tennstedt Mauer Fuchs Riesling was something I know better than to try in the US, where the bottles seem to be regularly beaten up. But figured when in Germany, why not get a taste.

And those tastes were delicious! Needs some air to shake off the initial natty funk, but then it becomes a very nice wine. Of course plenty of hazy nutty sour ‘natural’ wine notes, but also some nice firm structured red apple skin texture, plus juicy berry notes, and crystalline cut on the finish to complement the cloudy natural haze. I would happily order this while lounging in a wine bar. Which is perhaps the intended demographic.

That said, I have no plans to purchase more, because I would be hard pressed to identify this as a riesling, or as a Mosel wine, or even as a German wine. It could be from anywhere. Still, while not for me to chase, I’m sure others enjoy

More in my core zone was the 2019 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen Laubach Riesling GG, which needs some time for the reduction to dissipate. But then it kicks into gear with all the familiar notes of mineral ripe grilled mirabelle plums, and the ever present smokey herbal notes that some probably find distracting, but frankly I enjoy that ‘character’ to these wines. With more age, it will indeed enter different stages, but still enjoyable for me now. And I’m not an expert on Laubach, it is more delicate and less powerful than the Roth Lay, but everything has its place
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2020 Jakob Tennstedt Mauer Fuchs Riesling ... I have no plans to purchase more, because I would be hard pressed to identify this as a riesling, or as a Mosel wine, or even as a German wine. It could be from anywhere.

So, as a wine of terroir, it's an utter failure.

Still, while not for me to chase, I’m sure others enjoy

So, as a commercial product, it's doing good.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
So, as a commercial product, it's doing good.

Maybe. It's still a new venture and he definitely has some fans as one of the hot new things. But who knows how long that lasts if the exported wines continue to be such a crapshoot. And it's not cheap (around 50 euros in DE, $70/80 in the US), so not sure how many subpar bottles the public will tolerate!
 
We sell Jakob's wines at source | material. In 30 years of drinking wine no wine has fascinated me as much as Jakob's wine. When they are on they are extraordinary, truly extraordinary. The highs are so high. However they can also be painfully closed. The lows are low. He is a former two Michelin star chef that is one of the most calm and intensely focused individuals I have ever met. He insists on doing all of the farming himself so he is not going to go over 2 / 2.5 hectares. He has chosen some really unique sites in the side valleys of the middle Mosel. I have walked these vineyards with Jakob and it is clear he has a deep and intimate relationship with his vineyards. His winery has a stream running through the middle, tasting with him is a zen like experiences. None of your comments are unfair at all I just wanted to give some additional context.

I opened one of his wines at the rieslingstudy in Burgundy last weekend and it was the wine of the night for two incredibly experienced tasters.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
In 30 years of drinking wine no wine has fascinated me as much as Jakob's wine. ...None of your comments are unfair at all I just wanted to give some additional context.

I opened one of his wines at the rieslingstudy in Burgundy last weekend and it was the wine of the night for two incredibly experienced tasters.

Thanks for that. Those are strong words and I wish him all the best. Always very difficult for consumers to build informed opinions, as we must balance curiosity with financial prudence and limited time.
 
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