I got a last minute invitation to a dinner with a wine group that I don’t normally have the opportunity to drink with too often (though I know several of the members of this group from other events I go to). Good wines that evening that definitely needed food to show their best. Unfortunately, the restaurant we went to didn’t have any $1 taco specials (or any tacos for that matter), but I did settle on a massive pork chop that got the job done.
1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon: There's a little lemon and pear on the nose while the palate has a nice tertiary layer of nuts and caramel over the yellow fruit. It has a gentle bead at this point, is slightly oxidative, and it has a bit of roundness and breadth texturally. However, by the end of the evening, the acidity becomes more pronounced and sharper, and the fruit recedes, giving the wine a real sense of tension and electricity.
2021 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Sauvignon Blanc Viridis: Very aggressively ripe Sauvignon Blanc on the nose with pronounced aromas of melon, tropical fruit, lime, and grass. The wine has a little bit of volatility, but is primarily about that big rich fruit that finishes on a slightly bitter note. Could be a bit fresher on the palate.
2014 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo: A mineral forward wine that has nice breadth on the palate and has a hint of oxidative nuttiness to it. Very savory and herbal with a little bit of citrus; there is also a tart, mouth-watering acidity that is well balanced and integrated. Beautiful, aromatic nose. This is a really nice wine that is drinking well right now.
2010 Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore Pietramarina: Saline, mineral, and silky with racy, but integrated, acidity. The palate has lemony citrus and minerals with a nutty, spicy oxidative layer to the flavors. Still quite fresh, and has a nice bite of tart acidity on the finish. Personally, I do prefer Pietramarina younger, fresher, and racier, but this has aged into an interesting mature wine.
Regrettably, I was told 2010 was the last vintage of the original vineyard source for this cuvee, and that the wine is no longer the same after moving to their new source of Carricante. A shame if true.
1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato: This was served on pop and pour and was really great right out of the gate. Lifted aromas of rose and tar in spades. Red fruit on the palate that leaves a trace of citric tartness on the finish. Very silky texturally with a nice dusting of ashy tannins providing just a scintilla of grip. Classic, archetypal Nebbiolo that has perfect balance and is just lip-smackingly good. I had a tiny pour near the end of the night when I got home and the acidity took on a volatile character, so I'm actually glad I didn't decant this before the dinner.
2006 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero: On the nose, has the classic rose and tar signature, but also has notes of herbal green as well. Elegant and light on the palate. There's also a dark red fruit enveloped with minerality, layered with this savory, almost meaty quality. Finish is quite long with a hint of ashy smokiness.
Of the three Burlotto Monviglieros (this, '15, and '20), this was the most earthy and the most complex, though the tannins still had a drying and astringent bite. However, food (especially protein) effectively tamed the tannins and this was really very enjoyable. Will improve, but a pleasure to drink now with a meaty meal.
2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero: Borderline jammy red strawberries on the nose. Texturally very elegant and silky with sweet red fruit and a bit of pepper and tannin on the finish. It is initially a little hollow on the midpalate, but it fills out with air and there's a smoky minerality that emerges. While the acidity is there, the red fruit feels a little too ripe and structurally this feels a bit too plush. Still a very good wine, and maybe it will get more interesting with age, but it lacks a bit of tension right now. This could be a little shut down at the moment.
2020 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero: The nose is pretty tight on the initial pour. I'm getting a little bit of florals and red strawberry fruit, but the aromas could be more expressive. The palate is also initially just straightforward ripe red fruit that seems a little simple. However, with air, the nose opens up and, on the palate, you get additional layers of green herbs, saltiness, and earthy minerality to complement the red fruit. The acidity is quite good and lively, and the wine has an elegance to it. However, while it does get more interesting with air, the wine does feel a little ripe and full-throttled. It is still enjoyable though and maybe this will improve with more time in the bottle.
2005 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru: This comes across as surprisingly young and fresh with decent acidity, but it is not enough to balance the sweetness of the wine, which comes across as a bit cloying. Right now, it tastes a little simple and foursquare. From 375.
1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon: There's a little lemon and pear on the nose while the palate has a nice tertiary layer of nuts and caramel over the yellow fruit. It has a gentle bead at this point, is slightly oxidative, and it has a bit of roundness and breadth texturally. However, by the end of the evening, the acidity becomes more pronounced and sharper, and the fruit recedes, giving the wine a real sense of tension and electricity.
2021 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Sauvignon Blanc Viridis: Very aggressively ripe Sauvignon Blanc on the nose with pronounced aromas of melon, tropical fruit, lime, and grass. The wine has a little bit of volatility, but is primarily about that big rich fruit that finishes on a slightly bitter note. Could be a bit fresher on the palate.
2014 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo: A mineral forward wine that has nice breadth on the palate and has a hint of oxidative nuttiness to it. Very savory and herbal with a little bit of citrus; there is also a tart, mouth-watering acidity that is well balanced and integrated. Beautiful, aromatic nose. This is a really nice wine that is drinking well right now.
2010 Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore Pietramarina: Saline, mineral, and silky with racy, but integrated, acidity. The palate has lemony citrus and minerals with a nutty, spicy oxidative layer to the flavors. Still quite fresh, and has a nice bite of tart acidity on the finish. Personally, I do prefer Pietramarina younger, fresher, and racier, but this has aged into an interesting mature wine.
Regrettably, I was told 2010 was the last vintage of the original vineyard source for this cuvee, and that the wine is no longer the same after moving to their new source of Carricante. A shame if true.
1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato: This was served on pop and pour and was really great right out of the gate. Lifted aromas of rose and tar in spades. Red fruit on the palate that leaves a trace of citric tartness on the finish. Very silky texturally with a nice dusting of ashy tannins providing just a scintilla of grip. Classic, archetypal Nebbiolo that has perfect balance and is just lip-smackingly good. I had a tiny pour near the end of the night when I got home and the acidity took on a volatile character, so I'm actually glad I didn't decant this before the dinner.
2006 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero: On the nose, has the classic rose and tar signature, but also has notes of herbal green as well. Elegant and light on the palate. There's also a dark red fruit enveloped with minerality, layered with this savory, almost meaty quality. Finish is quite long with a hint of ashy smokiness.
Of the three Burlotto Monviglieros (this, '15, and '20), this was the most earthy and the most complex, though the tannins still had a drying and astringent bite. However, food (especially protein) effectively tamed the tannins and this was really very enjoyable. Will improve, but a pleasure to drink now with a meaty meal.
2015 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero: Borderline jammy red strawberries on the nose. Texturally very elegant and silky with sweet red fruit and a bit of pepper and tannin on the finish. It is initially a little hollow on the midpalate, but it fills out with air and there's a smoky minerality that emerges. While the acidity is there, the red fruit feels a little too ripe and structurally this feels a bit too plush. Still a very good wine, and maybe it will get more interesting with age, but it lacks a bit of tension right now. This could be a little shut down at the moment.
2020 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero: The nose is pretty tight on the initial pour. I'm getting a little bit of florals and red strawberry fruit, but the aromas could be more expressive. The palate is also initially just straightforward ripe red fruit that seems a little simple. However, with air, the nose opens up and, on the palate, you get additional layers of green herbs, saltiness, and earthy minerality to complement the red fruit. The acidity is quite good and lively, and the wine has an elegance to it. However, while it does get more interesting with air, the wine does feel a little ripe and full-throttled. It is still enjoyable though and maybe this will improve with more time in the bottle.
2005 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru: This comes across as surprisingly young and fresh with decent acidity, but it is not enough to balance the sweetness of the wine, which comes across as a bit cloying. Right now, it tastes a little simple and foursquare. From 375.
