Some additional notes I forgot to include in my previous posts:
Red
2019 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin: Nice expressive floral nose with dark cherry and red berries. Rich, meaty, dark red fruit on the palate. Good balance of ripeness with acidity, decent length, and rather silky and light on the palate. No noticeable oak and the tannins are pretty approachable, though I imagine this will shut down some day when the fruit recedes. A nice village wine.
2021 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin: A really nice village wine. Expressive nose, quite fresh and delicate on the palate with a sweetness to the dark, tart fruit. Nice tension with the acidity. Very tasty, if not quite profound. But, everything you could want in a village level wine.
Someone left a thoughtful series of comments to my note on CellarTracker explaining that in ‘21, Duroche included fruit from the Le Clos, Champs, and en Vosne lieux-dits, which are normally bottled separately. Apparently, for the ‘24 village, Duroche will also include Le Clos and Champs, though will bottle en Vosne separately.
2014 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Fournaux: Very elegant and transparent at this point in its evolution. Tannins still leave a hint of grip, but evolving into a silky texture. Great clarity and delineation of the red fruited and mineral flavors on the palate. Crisp and light on its feet. Very enjoyable.
2014 Jean-François Ganevat Julien en Billat: This is a lovely example of a natural red wine with the classic hallmarks of semi-carbonic maceration: beautiful wild strawberries and watermelon on the nose with hints of green from the stems. Acidity is quite lively with hints of herbs and black pepper seasoning the crunchy red fruit. Juicy, fun, and dynamic on the palate (and low alcohol, which is a nice bonus). Pinot Noir.
2023 Jean-François Ganevat Pinot Noir En Billat: Wild strawberries, violets, and herbs on the nose. The palate has subtle red, brambly fruit, great acidity, and white pepper with bitter herbs. Light and silky in a carbonic way. Very tart on the finish.
White
2017 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Pièce 15: A really nice example of white Burgundy that maintains a good balance of freshness and acidity with the ripeness of the white fruit on the palate and a deft use of oak to provide a subtle, polished sleekness and roundness to the texture. It reminds me of a nice, broad-shouldered Meursault.
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Cuvée Florine: Expressive aromas of lemon and white flowers on a nose that is just a touch lifted. Sleek, silky and subtly textured with punchy acidity that is mouth-watering, but already fairly well integrated. Juicy white fruit with a grace not of bitter lemon peel on the palate. There's warm spices and a subtle note of salinity and vanilla on the finish. Already very approachable, in contrast to the '20 Grands Teppes VV, which could use more time.
2018 Jean-François Ganevat Grusse en Billat: The nose is a little more subtle and stony in comparison to the '20 Florine. There's tart acidity on the opening attack that is quite firm but already well integrated. Much more mineral and saltier, you can taste the wet rocks on the palate. Razor sharp, the notes of spice and vanilla from the oak are already quite integrated into the palate. In comparison with the '20 Florine, this has much more mid-palate intensity.
2017 Anne et Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Arbois Sous Voile: Strong oxidative aromas of roasted nuts, honey, and a slight sting of wood varnish on the nose. The palate is very tart and lemon-forward from the strong acidity with the oxidative, sherry-adjacent flavors adding a layer of complexity onto the palate. Very powerful, but also very light on its feet and super elegant, as if its floating over the palate. My first time drinking a sous voile white from Ganevat, and it is really good!
Dessert
1976 Schloss Eltz Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese: As dark and viscous as motor oil, but incredibly complex, punchy, and floral on the nose. The palate is rich and textured, infused with dried fruit, nuts, bitter citrus peel, salt, and baking spices. Super long. Really terrific and fresh despite how dense and rich it is. Still a hint of sweetness, but this is becoming quite savory. Acidity very much still on point.
2001 Ch“teau Suduiraut: This was wonderful. Firm acidity that comes across electric on the palate, amplifying the tart and bitter orange marmalade, oozing with a piquant spiciness you get from citrus oils. The savory and saline from the tertiary development are supplanting the sweetness at this point in the wine's development. Still a little tight and feral, this has plenty of runway to develop and mature. What a great bottle.
NV Jean-François Ganevat Macvin du Jura Vieux: A blend of mostly Chardonnay with some Savagnin. Quite oxidative on the nose with the heat from the fortification also noticeable. Some honeyed notes on the palate, and it finishes with a hint of sweetness with some heat and bite. Despite the alcohol, it comes across as light and finessed (for a fortified dessert wine).
2003 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Eiswein: This was definitely ripe, concentrated and sweet, but the acidity was still so lively and tangy, providing necessary balance. Definitely a basket of tropical fruits and apricots smothered in honey that is quite velvety and textured on the palate, but the tension in the wine is so refreshing and mouthwatering, it all just comes together. Really surprising considering how torridly hot this vintage was.
Red
2019 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin: Nice expressive floral nose with dark cherry and red berries. Rich, meaty, dark red fruit on the palate. Good balance of ripeness with acidity, decent length, and rather silky and light on the palate. No noticeable oak and the tannins are pretty approachable, though I imagine this will shut down some day when the fruit recedes. A nice village wine.
2021 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin: A really nice village wine. Expressive nose, quite fresh and delicate on the palate with a sweetness to the dark, tart fruit. Nice tension with the acidity. Very tasty, if not quite profound. But, everything you could want in a village level wine.
Someone left a thoughtful series of comments to my note on CellarTracker explaining that in ‘21, Duroche included fruit from the Le Clos, Champs, and en Vosne lieux-dits, which are normally bottled separately. Apparently, for the ‘24 village, Duroche will also include Le Clos and Champs, though will bottle en Vosne separately.
2014 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Fournaux: Very elegant and transparent at this point in its evolution. Tannins still leave a hint of grip, but evolving into a silky texture. Great clarity and delineation of the red fruited and mineral flavors on the palate. Crisp and light on its feet. Very enjoyable.
2014 Jean-François Ganevat Julien en Billat: This is a lovely example of a natural red wine with the classic hallmarks of semi-carbonic maceration: beautiful wild strawberries and watermelon on the nose with hints of green from the stems. Acidity is quite lively with hints of herbs and black pepper seasoning the crunchy red fruit. Juicy, fun, and dynamic on the palate (and low alcohol, which is a nice bonus). Pinot Noir.
2023 Jean-François Ganevat Pinot Noir En Billat: Wild strawberries, violets, and herbs on the nose. The palate has subtle red, brambly fruit, great acidity, and white pepper with bitter herbs. Light and silky in a carbonic way. Very tart on the finish.
White
2017 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Pièce 15: A really nice example of white Burgundy that maintains a good balance of freshness and acidity with the ripeness of the white fruit on the palate and a deft use of oak to provide a subtle, polished sleekness and roundness to the texture. It reminds me of a nice, broad-shouldered Meursault.
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Cuvée Florine: Expressive aromas of lemon and white flowers on a nose that is just a touch lifted. Sleek, silky and subtly textured with punchy acidity that is mouth-watering, but already fairly well integrated. Juicy white fruit with a grace not of bitter lemon peel on the palate. There's warm spices and a subtle note of salinity and vanilla on the finish. Already very approachable, in contrast to the '20 Grands Teppes VV, which could use more time.
2018 Jean-François Ganevat Grusse en Billat: The nose is a little more subtle and stony in comparison to the '20 Florine. There's tart acidity on the opening attack that is quite firm but already well integrated. Much more mineral and saltier, you can taste the wet rocks on the palate. Razor sharp, the notes of spice and vanilla from the oak are already quite integrated into the palate. In comparison with the '20 Florine, this has much more mid-palate intensity.
2017 Anne et Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Arbois Sous Voile: Strong oxidative aromas of roasted nuts, honey, and a slight sting of wood varnish on the nose. The palate is very tart and lemon-forward from the strong acidity with the oxidative, sherry-adjacent flavors adding a layer of complexity onto the palate. Very powerful, but also very light on its feet and super elegant, as if its floating over the palate. My first time drinking a sous voile white from Ganevat, and it is really good!
Dessert
1976 Schloss Eltz Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese: As dark and viscous as motor oil, but incredibly complex, punchy, and floral on the nose. The palate is rich and textured, infused with dried fruit, nuts, bitter citrus peel, salt, and baking spices. Super long. Really terrific and fresh despite how dense and rich it is. Still a hint of sweetness, but this is becoming quite savory. Acidity very much still on point.
2001 Ch“teau Suduiraut: This was wonderful. Firm acidity that comes across electric on the palate, amplifying the tart and bitter orange marmalade, oozing with a piquant spiciness you get from citrus oils. The savory and saline from the tertiary development are supplanting the sweetness at this point in the wine's development. Still a little tight and feral, this has plenty of runway to develop and mature. What a great bottle.
NV Jean-François Ganevat Macvin du Jura Vieux: A blend of mostly Chardonnay with some Savagnin. Quite oxidative on the nose with the heat from the fortification also noticeable. Some honeyed notes on the palate, and it finishes with a hint of sweetness with some heat and bite. Despite the alcohol, it comes across as light and finessed (for a fortified dessert wine).
2003 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Eiswein: This was definitely ripe, concentrated and sweet, but the acidity was still so lively and tangy, providing necessary balance. Definitely a basket of tropical fruits and apricots smothered in honey that is quite velvety and textured on the palate, but the tension in the wine is so refreshing and mouthwatering, it all just comes together. Really surprising considering how torridly hot this vintage was.
