The rites of springbok

Thor

Thor Iverson
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The truck shows no signs of stopping. In fact, it might be speeding up. A horn blares. The right wheel is aimed directly at me, the left at Theresas glasses, which are still skipping and swirling over the pavement, buffeted by the howling gales that cyclone around us. Theres nothing to be done except save myself, and I leap back onto the sidewalkjust as the glasses are given their most violent wind-whipping yet. They sail skyward, hurdling the truck and crashing to the ground right at my feet. I reach out to grasp them

continued here. Notes follow:

Villiera Mthode Cap Classique Brut Ros Tradition (Stellenbosch) Soft strawberry with a brace of acidity trailing in its wake. Short, though. Dry, clean, and pleasant, but most certainly not special. (11/08)

Vergelegen 2005 White (Stellenbosch) 2/3 semillon and 1/3 sauvignon blanc. Ripe, intense, concentrated, and with its eyes firmly focused on white Bordeaux, though I dont know if it would be easy to conflate the two. Figs, dried straw, and white nectarine, with hints of wood influence and fine acidity. Very powerful, yet balanced, with a slightly leesy texture and a finish of majestic length. Turns creamier as it warms, while retaining its poise. Very, very impressive. (11/08)

Klein Constantia 2004 Vin de Constance (Constantia) A dessert wine of vine-desiccated muscat de Frontignan (a/k/a muscat blanc petits grains), and a wine that made South Africas worldwide wine reputation well over a century ago. Klein Constantia is part of the countrys original wine estate, dating back to the late 1600s, and in its current incarnation has resurrected the style and the name. But not, I fear, the quality that made the reputation (though I wasnt around in the 1800s and thus cant really know for sure). The nose is gorgeous and openly muscatty, with additional complexities in the form of cooked apple, spiced plum, cinnamon, and nutmeg. But as it turns juicy on the palate, it thins, and the finish is wan and disappointing. Good, but decidedly not great, and much more fun to sniff than to sip. (11/08)

Signal Hill 2006 Ros de Saigne Blanc de Noir (Constantia) Sources differ on what this is made from. Some say petit verdot, while the usually definitive Platters Guide has it as shiraz with pinot noir and cabernet franc. But Im going to go with the winerys web site, which says its cab franc. If it was no good, it wouldnt matterbut it is. Very flavorful, with dark strawberry and cherry, hints of blacker fruit, and a good layer of spice (but not of wood). Casts a significant shadow. Wavy and delicious. The winery claims aging potential, and I wouldnt bet against it. (11/08)

Signal Hill 2005 Syrah (Stellenbosch) Very confident, with a grainy structure, solid leather, blackberry skins, and a welcome hint of bacon. Balanced, long, and promising, but theres just a little something missing. Perhaps its that the wines initial swagger isnt quite matched by its raw materials, which are a little more timid than the wines proud bearing seems to promise. (11/08)

Peter Bayly 2004 Cape Vintage Port (Calitzdorp) Tired, roasted, and dried-out. Already. Less actively unpleasant than justeh. (11/08)

Bouchard Finlayson 1998 Pinot Noir Galpin Peak (Walker Bay) Soft fruit, grey minerality, drying structure, and a keening sweet-fruited character that is, for me, often found in New World pinots as they develop. Its balanced, but showing indications of fading, and theres no sign of the lovely autumnal complexity that makes aged pinot so compelling. Good, but just barely hanging on to that status. (11/08)

Wilderer Pinotage Grappa (Paarl) Like wines made from the grape, a giant explosion of fruit. Kind of a doofus spirit, or perhaps it could more charitably be termed a beginners grappa, and yet it ends up being appealing despite its simplicity. (11/08)
 
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