Domaine de la Terre Rouge 2003 RO2X (Sierra Foothills) An interesting tribute to the partially-oxidized style of wine one can find all over Europe, but rarely (except by accident) here. The grape is roussanne, and its Californian interpretation is most definitely on display here, as despite relatively restrained rancio theres a great deal of lush golden fruit of an intensity not usually found in its old world models. This upsets the balance somewhat, but that could just as easily be a matter of expectations. I find this wine most enjoyable, and wholeheartedly support further experiments in this direction. Plus, anyone who loves a good pun as much as me has to like the name. (1/09)
Perrusset 2002 Mcon-Villages (Mcon) Rich with complexity. Mushrooms and beige earth, old mirabelle plums, and a bright, dust-infused texture. It crescendos quickly, then fades almost as quickly, which is less a knock than a realistic response to the potential of the terroir. This is probably not fully mature, but its drinking beautifully right now. (1/09)
Verdi 2006 Oltrep Pavese Riesling Renano Vigna Costa (Lombardy) Riesling turned far enough up on the volume dial that theres feedback; the weight is similar to a very ripe Wachau, though the aromatics veer off in a different direction. Chalk dust on the wind, dried grapefruit zest, and glacial water. Finishes balanced but heavy. Quite enticing, but I admit I wasnt quite prepared for the heft. (1/09)
Dog Point 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Sophisticated. None of the edges and raciness that used to define Marlborough sauvignon blanc are here; this tastes significantly more like an Old World sauvignon, though what it does take from its location are a certain size and intensity. Acid is tamed but well-balanced, the fruit moves through gentler, more yellow realms (rather than the usual green), and theres a soft, almost sandy texture that brings to the fore a very appealing mineral foundation. The finish is supple and long. Very, very good. (1/09)
Ken Forrester 2008 Petit Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch) While the whitish-yellow fruit here is fairly soft, its a good deal heftier and more present than base-level chenins usually are; this would appear to be a signature of Stellenbosch chenin, which picks up weight that it rarely attains elsewhere except in extreme late-harvest conditions. Its not overweighted, though, and at a good price its a quite fair bargain. It doesnt endure careful attention, but its not intended to. (1/09)
Neil Ellis 2007 Sincerely Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape) Slashing, biting, and razoring as sauvignon is occasionally wont to do, but while it edges right up to the precipice of underripeness, it never quite completes that dive, and the result while tongue-numbingly sharp is a sort of cheap thrill ride for the palate. Green, most assuredly, but in a good waythough its no cocktail sipper, and will require sharply acidic food to tame its wilder impulses. (1/09)
Robertson 2007 Gewrztraminer Special Late Harvest (Robertston) Quite sweet, without enough balancing acidity, but the wines pleasant and varietally correct: peach, lychee, oil, and syrup, with a fuzzier apricot note (botrytis? yes, according to the label). Fairly short. And yet, its not a full-blown dessert wine by any means. Call it an aperitif gewrztraminer in the mode of the less expensive VT versions an Alsatian restaurant might serve while youre studying the menu. Like so many of those: drinkable, pleasant, but not all that great. (1/09)
Palmer 2006 Pinot Blanc (North Fork of Long Island) Aromatically, this is quite enticing, showing ripe pear and vaguely citrusy notes with a little bit of spice and greengage plum. Unfortunately, the palates dominated by an off-putting synthetic quality. While theres structural balance, its impossible to get past the plastic. A shame, because things were promising there for a while. (1/09)
Trimbach 2001 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) A little past its best, with the almost-always-present (save 1997 and 2000) bite of the wines structure starting to take precedence over the strappy, lychee and peach fruit. (1/09)
Perrusset 2002 Mcon-Villages (Mcon) Rich with complexity. Mushrooms and beige earth, old mirabelle plums, and a bright, dust-infused texture. It crescendos quickly, then fades almost as quickly, which is less a knock than a realistic response to the potential of the terroir. This is probably not fully mature, but its drinking beautifully right now. (1/09)
Verdi 2006 Oltrep Pavese Riesling Renano Vigna Costa (Lombardy) Riesling turned far enough up on the volume dial that theres feedback; the weight is similar to a very ripe Wachau, though the aromatics veer off in a different direction. Chalk dust on the wind, dried grapefruit zest, and glacial water. Finishes balanced but heavy. Quite enticing, but I admit I wasnt quite prepared for the heft. (1/09)
Dog Point 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Sophisticated. None of the edges and raciness that used to define Marlborough sauvignon blanc are here; this tastes significantly more like an Old World sauvignon, though what it does take from its location are a certain size and intensity. Acid is tamed but well-balanced, the fruit moves through gentler, more yellow realms (rather than the usual green), and theres a soft, almost sandy texture that brings to the fore a very appealing mineral foundation. The finish is supple and long. Very, very good. (1/09)
Ken Forrester 2008 Petit Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch) While the whitish-yellow fruit here is fairly soft, its a good deal heftier and more present than base-level chenins usually are; this would appear to be a signature of Stellenbosch chenin, which picks up weight that it rarely attains elsewhere except in extreme late-harvest conditions. Its not overweighted, though, and at a good price its a quite fair bargain. It doesnt endure careful attention, but its not intended to. (1/09)
Neil Ellis 2007 Sincerely Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape) Slashing, biting, and razoring as sauvignon is occasionally wont to do, but while it edges right up to the precipice of underripeness, it never quite completes that dive, and the result while tongue-numbingly sharp is a sort of cheap thrill ride for the palate. Green, most assuredly, but in a good waythough its no cocktail sipper, and will require sharply acidic food to tame its wilder impulses. (1/09)
Robertson 2007 Gewrztraminer Special Late Harvest (Robertston) Quite sweet, without enough balancing acidity, but the wines pleasant and varietally correct: peach, lychee, oil, and syrup, with a fuzzier apricot note (botrytis? yes, according to the label). Fairly short. And yet, its not a full-blown dessert wine by any means. Call it an aperitif gewrztraminer in the mode of the less expensive VT versions an Alsatian restaurant might serve while youre studying the menu. Like so many of those: drinkable, pleasant, but not all that great. (1/09)
Palmer 2006 Pinot Blanc (North Fork of Long Island) Aromatically, this is quite enticing, showing ripe pear and vaguely citrusy notes with a little bit of spice and greengage plum. Unfortunately, the palates dominated by an off-putting synthetic quality. While theres structural balance, its impossible to get past the plastic. A shame, because things were promising there for a while. (1/09)
Trimbach 2001 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) A little past its best, with the almost-always-present (save 1997 and 2000) bite of the wines structure starting to take precedence over the strappy, lychee and peach fruit. (1/09)