TN: fruits de la terre

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Texier, Cotes du Rhone, viognier, 2006
Vague, muted tropical aromas, and, initially, bitter almond until the egg-sulfur-matchstick blows off. Lightish wine full of sweet yellow fruits, apricot, peach pit, drinking well now. B+

Clerico, Barolo, 'Pajana', 1990
Maroon-skin color. Soy sauce and beef blood aromas. Blood sausage, black earth, orange rind and cherries marinating in liquer. Power here, but not much elegance. Spicy oak emerges with further aeration, and strong tannins come to the fore. This actually becomes better with age, 3 days later in the fridge, better still. B+

Terre dei Re, Aglianico del Vulture, 'Vultur', 2003
Blackish plum-red. Brooding deep plum and smoky mushroom on the closed nose. Spicy plums, smoky blueberries, strong tannic structure, no evident heaviness from the 2003 vintage. Needs time, or something. A little clodding and one-dimensional. B/B+

Vare Vineyards, Ribolla Gialla, Napa Valley, 2006
From a cute little 500ml bottle. Dull tawney gold color. Nut and almond oil aromas, a bit lactic. Soured milk flavors, lemon oil, nut oils, lactose, dull and flat tasting which is more a symptom of the grape to me than Californian winemaking. So far, I've never had a RB that I've liked. All have come across as heavy, dull, as if someone was hading you a limp hand to shake. 14.5% B

Chateau Peybonhomme les Tours, Premieres Cotes du Blaye, 2005
Bright garnet red color. Fresh leafy blackcurrant on the nose and palate, bright twig tannins and cool, ripe flavors. Not something to ponder over, but delicious for what it offers. B/B+

Alex Gambal, Nuits St. Georges, 'les Murgers', 1999
Medium maroonish garnet. Smoke-filled ground round, and a small bit of camphor on the nose. Blood orange, dried flowers, cherry pits, with a finish of old iron nails. This is powerful, but tough to love. Seems little evolved from Sept 07. Fierce tannins kick in on the finish.. B
 
originally posted by MarkS:

Clerico, Barolo, 'Pajana', 1990
Maroon-skin color. Soy sauce and beef blood aromas. Blood sausage, black earth, orange rind and cherries marinating in liquer. Power here, but not much elegance. Spicy oak emerges with further aeration, and strong tannins come to the fore. This actually becomes better with age, 3 days later in the fridge, better still. B+

Do you get a sense of whether this will ever develop any complexity and nuance?

That's kind of my worry, that these wines are destined for a stunted strange growth that never becomes all that elegant or interesting.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by MarkS:

Clerico, Barolo, 'Pajana', 1990
Maroon-skin color. Soy sauce and beef blood aromas. Blood sausage, black earth, orange rind and cherries marinating in liquer. Power here, but not much elegance. Spicy oak emerges with further aeration, and strong tannins come to the fore. This actually becomes better with age, 3 days later in the fridge, better still. B+

Do you get a sense of whether this will ever develop any complexity and nuance?

That's kind of my worry, that these wines are destined for a stunted strange growth that never becomes all that elegant or interesting.

To the question: nope.

To the second sentence: yep.

And not just Clerico either. I've been bummed on Paruso, Scavino, some other New-age DeGrazia wines around that same time...hoping, praying (don't worry Dressner - not for you) that somehow they will lose the oak-tint without the fruit going AWOL, and I am not hopeful. The more I try these, the more I'm willing to shell out the big bucks for the traditionalistas. Unfortunately, I was starting to get into nebbiolo around the 89-90 vintages...
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by MarkS:

Clerico, Barolo, 'Pajana', 1990
Maroon-skin color. Soy sauce and beef blood aromas. Blood sausage, black earth, orange rind and cherries marinating in liquer. Power here, but not much elegance. Spicy oak emerges with further aeration, and strong tannins come to the fore. This actually becomes better with age, 3 days later in the fridge, better still. B+

Do you get a sense of whether this will ever develop any complexity and nuance?

That's kind of my worry, that these wines are destined for a stunted strange growth that never becomes all that elegant or interesting.

To the question: nope.

To the second sentence: yep.

And not just Clerico either. I've been bummed on Paruso, Scavino, some other New-age DeGrazia wines around that same time...hoping, praying (don't worry Dressner - not for you) that somehow they will lose the oak-tint without the fruit going AWOL, and I am not hopeful. The more I try these, the more I'm willing to shell out the big bucks for the traditionalistas. Unfortunately, I was starting to get into nebbiolo around the 89-90 vintages...

I'm in the same boat. The 88-90 vintages were when I was discovering nebbiolo (and becoming legal to buy wine). The wines were so stunning and pure when they were young. My issue is not so much with the oak, but with the real blockiness that the wines have. I blame that more on other things than oak, but I guess the use of barriques is an issue as well.

Luckily, I bought across the spectrum, not just the New Wave producers, so I have some other stuff to fall back on, just not as much as I would like considering how long it takes Barolo to hit the maturity point I'm looking for.

What is a sham is that some of these guys, and I'm thinking of Clerico in particular, are doing such good work in the vineyards that I'm really hoping that will win out.
 
I'm amazed the Vultur came out as nice as it did in your notes. My experience has been of commercial junk juice without soul.

Try Ferdinand Ribolla Gialla for mineral zip and zing without a hit on the wallet.
 
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