Schoenheitz 2004 Riesling Linsenberg (Alsace) Brilliant green leaves mint, makrut lime, and perhaps even a touch of sage with vibrant intensity and a core of naked steel. Grows in intensity for the better part of an hour, then starts a long, slow fade. Vibrant, powerful, dry, and balanced. Id be very interested to see how this ages. (4/09)
Craftsman 2006 Kirlylenyka (Neszmly) The label promises a chenin blanc/viognier-related experience, and that isnt too far off, as theres a chalky, sun-drenched greenness thickened with a healthy dollop of oil here. Floral suggestions follow. Theres good flavor and appeal, but the wines rather abrupt. (4/09)
Riefl Bonheur Convivial 2005 Pinot Gris (Alsace) Surprisingly iron flake-dominated in the midsection, with a flavorful spectrum of pear interpretations surrounding. Theres dry, theres sweet, theres flesh, and theres skin. Its a most enjoyable wine, rising a little bit above its station. (4/09)
Kesseler 2004 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 009 05 (Rheingau) Open and taking huge, lung-filling breaths of reflective, almost transparent minerality. Its not a big wine, though its insistent, with various apples cut by nut skins and then, later, softened by a certain roundness to the acidity. Interesting. (4/09)
Kesseler 2005 White 001 06 (Rheingau) 70% sylvaner, 30% riesling. Less (appealingly) vegetal than many examples of the grape, with a little bit of a sharp edge that may be from the riesling, but retaining the clingier texture of the majority partner. Theres a bit of welcome rockiness, as well. A good value, though I think similarly-priced pure rieslings are a little more defined. (4/09)
Schloss Wallhausen 2005 Riesling Sptlese 14 06 (Nahe) Perfectly correct German rieslingacid, sugar, and lemon-apple fruit all intactwith nothing that adds to, or detracts from, the basic fact of it. (4/09)
Craftsman 2006 Kirlylenyka (Neszmly) The label promises a chenin blanc/viognier-related experience, and that isnt too far off, as theres a chalky, sun-drenched greenness thickened with a healthy dollop of oil here. Floral suggestions follow. Theres good flavor and appeal, but the wines rather abrupt. (4/09)
Riefl Bonheur Convivial 2005 Pinot Gris (Alsace) Surprisingly iron flake-dominated in the midsection, with a flavorful spectrum of pear interpretations surrounding. Theres dry, theres sweet, theres flesh, and theres skin. Its a most enjoyable wine, rising a little bit above its station. (4/09)
Kesseler 2004 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 009 05 (Rheingau) Open and taking huge, lung-filling breaths of reflective, almost transparent minerality. Its not a big wine, though its insistent, with various apples cut by nut skins and then, later, softened by a certain roundness to the acidity. Interesting. (4/09)
Kesseler 2005 White 001 06 (Rheingau) 70% sylvaner, 30% riesling. Less (appealingly) vegetal than many examples of the grape, with a little bit of a sharp edge that may be from the riesling, but retaining the clingier texture of the majority partner. Theres a bit of welcome rockiness, as well. A good value, though I think similarly-priced pure rieslings are a little more defined. (4/09)
Schloss Wallhausen 2005 Riesling Sptlese 14 06 (Nahe) Perfectly correct German rieslingacid, sugar, and lemon-apple fruit all intactwith nothing that adds to, or detracts from, the basic fact of it. (4/09)