David from Switzerland
David Plattner
Ridge Monte Bello 2001
Thanks to Patrick. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. 14.2% alcohol. Four and a half years ago since I last had this, it is evolving slowly and well the question is whether one likes the style... Deep purple-ruby, almost opaque at the center, watery at the rim. So sweetly jammy with an artificial acidity spike (Was this acidified? That is what it tastes like!), and oak-spicy with vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon top notes that I was not at all surprised both Patrick and Remo mistook this for Shiraz (not surprisingly I could easily have mistaken it for e.g. Aussie Shiraz or Cabernet myself, and a fairly good one at that). Not too warming with alcohol, but there are certainly wines with more alcohol (and that otherwise come across as lighter on their feet) that integrate it with greater ease. My guess is that even though it does not seem closed, it must be at least partially. Fairly complex fruit but medium length only at this stage. The tannin tastes like milk chocolate especially compared to the monumental but utterly natural-tasting tannin of Chapoutiers 2003 Greffieux. What a filling wine, not easy to have more than a glass (I find more elegant vintages of Monte Bello, such as the 1997, easier to digest) or so I thought: when it was first served still fractionally chilled (when the decanter had just been brought upstairs), Remo said I love light wine like this. He later complained this must be the oakiest wine he has ever tasted. If I owned any (and I do not care to), I would cellar the 2001 Monte Bello for several years more, hoping it will evolve along the lines of the monumental, yet more concentrated and intense, but also firmer 1996 (which I would not care to own either, admittedly for stylistic reasons I realize this wine has its entourage, and respect that). Rating: 92(+?)
Chapoutier Ermitage Les Greffieux 2003
Fewer than 100 cases made. Opaque purple-black, slight watery-pink rim. Another floral essence beauty, complex with roasted Provenal herbs, violet and lavender, mineral dust, cocoa powder, grilled beef and iron, Crme de Cassis. Hugely tannic yet low in acidity as so many top wines of the vintage. Not quite the power of the Pavillon, nor perhaps the same depth, but the terroir expression strikes me as equally as pretty. Sweeter with airing, with a strong apricot top note, the squeaky-clean bitterness of the tannin integrating perfectly (nothing wrong with the tannin at all, there is just a lot of it, as in many of the top, otherwise low-acid 2003 Northern Rhnes). Not just more concentrated and natural-tasting than Ridges 2001 Montebello, this manages to be fuller-bodied, with sound alcohol, yet characteristically lighter on its feet (more a consequence of the improved house style chez Chapoutier than the vintage). Perhaps the most amazing characteristic of the top 2003 Northern Rhnes is their uncanny freshness, so that in direct comparison, Chapoutiers 2003 Greffieux came across like a sleek yoghurt next to Ridges heavy cream cheese like 2001 Montebello. And of course it seemed as if the Chapoutier was completely oak-free every time one returned to it from the Ridge. While not as shut-down as I was afraid it might be, this would profit from more bottle age Patrick for example would like it better with some of its tannin resolved. Remo compared this to the Ermite 2001 we recently had he thought that nobler (the terroir notes in particular), but the 2003 Greffieux bigger. Rating: 93+/94?
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________
J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
Thanks to Patrick. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. 14.2% alcohol. Four and a half years ago since I last had this, it is evolving slowly and well the question is whether one likes the style... Deep purple-ruby, almost opaque at the center, watery at the rim. So sweetly jammy with an artificial acidity spike (Was this acidified? That is what it tastes like!), and oak-spicy with vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon top notes that I was not at all surprised both Patrick and Remo mistook this for Shiraz (not surprisingly I could easily have mistaken it for e.g. Aussie Shiraz or Cabernet myself, and a fairly good one at that). Not too warming with alcohol, but there are certainly wines with more alcohol (and that otherwise come across as lighter on their feet) that integrate it with greater ease. My guess is that even though it does not seem closed, it must be at least partially. Fairly complex fruit but medium length only at this stage. The tannin tastes like milk chocolate especially compared to the monumental but utterly natural-tasting tannin of Chapoutiers 2003 Greffieux. What a filling wine, not easy to have more than a glass (I find more elegant vintages of Monte Bello, such as the 1997, easier to digest) or so I thought: when it was first served still fractionally chilled (when the decanter had just been brought upstairs), Remo said I love light wine like this. He later complained this must be the oakiest wine he has ever tasted. If I owned any (and I do not care to), I would cellar the 2001 Monte Bello for several years more, hoping it will evolve along the lines of the monumental, yet more concentrated and intense, but also firmer 1996 (which I would not care to own either, admittedly for stylistic reasons I realize this wine has its entourage, and respect that). Rating: 92(+?)
Chapoutier Ermitage Les Greffieux 2003
Fewer than 100 cases made. Opaque purple-black, slight watery-pink rim. Another floral essence beauty, complex with roasted Provenal herbs, violet and lavender, mineral dust, cocoa powder, grilled beef and iron, Crme de Cassis. Hugely tannic yet low in acidity as so many top wines of the vintage. Not quite the power of the Pavillon, nor perhaps the same depth, but the terroir expression strikes me as equally as pretty. Sweeter with airing, with a strong apricot top note, the squeaky-clean bitterness of the tannin integrating perfectly (nothing wrong with the tannin at all, there is just a lot of it, as in many of the top, otherwise low-acid 2003 Northern Rhnes). Not just more concentrated and natural-tasting than Ridges 2001 Montebello, this manages to be fuller-bodied, with sound alcohol, yet characteristically lighter on its feet (more a consequence of the improved house style chez Chapoutier than the vintage). Perhaps the most amazing characteristic of the top 2003 Northern Rhnes is their uncanny freshness, so that in direct comparison, Chapoutiers 2003 Greffieux came across like a sleek yoghurt next to Ridges heavy cream cheese like 2001 Montebello. And of course it seemed as if the Chapoutier was completely oak-free every time one returned to it from the Ridge. While not as shut-down as I was afraid it might be, this would profit from more bottle age Patrick for example would like it better with some of its tannin resolved. Remo compared this to the Ermite 2001 we recently had he thought that nobler (the terroir notes in particular), but the 2003 Greffieux bigger. Rating: 93+/94?
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________
J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti