Ata Rangi 2001 Pinot Noir (Martinborough) Rumbly, flexed-muscle fruit with the aromas of pinot noir but the weight of something a little more lumbering. The wine has mellowed quite a bit from its youth, and while this has left a solid foundation of earthiness more exposed, the whole package is a bit faded and worn. This is probably pretty much all the way down the road its going to travel, in terms of development. (5/09)
Dog Point 2004 Pinot Noir (Marlborough) In other vintages this has shown a good deal of heft, which is appealing enough but may not express the wines Marlboroughness to the fullest extent. By that I mean that I expect the regions pinot noirs to have a little more lightness and red fruit than Central Otago, the Waipara, and certainly Martinborough, yet also more forwardness than Nelson. Here, that heft is indeed shot through with some brighter, cherry-ish fruit, though theres still layers of beet, leaf, and earth above and below. Despite the tally of descriptors, the wines not actually complex, but since theres more balance and light to this wine than usual, its early appeal is likely to be surpassed by the qualities revealed by aging. (5/09)
Dog Point 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Grass, unidentifiable yellow fruit, and a particulate texture with some rocks in the blend. Structured, but not overly so, and balanced. Makrut lime is the topnote. Very nice. (5/09)
Paul Cluver 2007 Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest (Elgin) This wine is so regularly impressive that I wonder if Ill be able to hold any long enough to explore its maturity curve. All the elements for aging seem to be there: tight, focused granite-like minerality in columnar form, sharp fruit, vibrant acidity, and a long, glowing finish. Even in this ultra-primary form, the wine is a powerful expression of botrytized riesling. (5/09)
Ken Forrester 2008 Petit Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch) Pure sun-fruit fun. Nectarine, peach, a bit of pear, and a lot of freshness. Good wine, cheap. (5/09)
Neil Ellis 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Groenekloof) Vibrant metallic green of a more pine-like hue. Theres grass, capsicum, and nerve, but theres also a cold, rocky minerality. Not quite as precise as the previous vintage, but still clearly delineated. (5/09)
Dog Point 2004 Pinot Noir (Marlborough) In other vintages this has shown a good deal of heft, which is appealing enough but may not express the wines Marlboroughness to the fullest extent. By that I mean that I expect the regions pinot noirs to have a little more lightness and red fruit than Central Otago, the Waipara, and certainly Martinborough, yet also more forwardness than Nelson. Here, that heft is indeed shot through with some brighter, cherry-ish fruit, though theres still layers of beet, leaf, and earth above and below. Despite the tally of descriptors, the wines not actually complex, but since theres more balance and light to this wine than usual, its early appeal is likely to be surpassed by the qualities revealed by aging. (5/09)
Dog Point 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Grass, unidentifiable yellow fruit, and a particulate texture with some rocks in the blend. Structured, but not overly so, and balanced. Makrut lime is the topnote. Very nice. (5/09)
Paul Cluver 2007 Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest (Elgin) This wine is so regularly impressive that I wonder if Ill be able to hold any long enough to explore its maturity curve. All the elements for aging seem to be there: tight, focused granite-like minerality in columnar form, sharp fruit, vibrant acidity, and a long, glowing finish. Even in this ultra-primary form, the wine is a powerful expression of botrytized riesling. (5/09)
Ken Forrester 2008 Petit Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch) Pure sun-fruit fun. Nectarine, peach, a bit of pear, and a lot of freshness. Good wine, cheap. (5/09)
Neil Ellis 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Groenekloof) Vibrant metallic green of a more pine-like hue. Theres grass, capsicum, and nerve, but theres also a cold, rocky minerality. Not quite as precise as the previous vintage, but still clearly delineated. (5/09)