Le Piane 2004 Colline Novaresi La Maggiorina (Piedmont) Chilly. Even arctic. Cold minerality flows down from the permafrost, slipping over brittle black fruit (paper-thin) and finally breaking on jagged shards of acidity. Even more than before, this is akin to a red riesling, but riesling in its most austere form. Closed or fading? I guess well find out. (5/09)
Marco Felluga 2007 Friuliano (Collio) Airy, like drinking white clouds with some lemony acidity. With aggressive swirling, theres acacia and some pale floral notes, but the wines chief attribute is its antigravitic lightness. (6/09)
St. Michael-Eppan 2006 Pinot Noir (Alto Adige) Plummy fruit to which has been applied a wrench, slightly distorting it. Some beet, some earth, some cherry, but a weird structure, as if its repeating throwing itself against some unseen barrier. (6/09)
Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra 2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marches) Sprightly, mildly electrified greenish-white fruit. Crisp, direct, and simple. A good value, and strictly for summery guzzling. (6/09)
Marco Felluga 2007 Friuliano (Collio) Airy, like drinking white clouds with some lemony acidity. With aggressive swirling, theres acacia and some pale floral notes, but the wines chief attribute is its antigravitic lightness. (6/09)
St. Michael-Eppan 2006 Pinot Noir (Alto Adige) Plummy fruit to which has been applied a wrench, slightly distorting it. Some beet, some earth, some cherry, but a weird structure, as if its repeating throwing itself against some unseen barrier. (6/09)
Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra 2006 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marches) Sprightly, mildly electrified greenish-white fruit. Crisp, direct, and simple. A good value, and strictly for summery guzzling. (6/09)