Larrieu Clos Lapeyre 2005 Juranon Moelleux La Magendia (Southwest France) Ripe, sweet, and pure. Lemon and apple paired, with a heart of cool alpine valley sunshine and little drizzlings of fresh acidity over the top. Pretty. (7/09)
Dr. Parc Domaine du Mas Blanc 2006 Banyuls Fruit (Roussillon) Despite the name, this is red. Raspberry-sauced chocolate, full and (as promised) fruity, with only the minor interference of oxidation. However, the concentration on fruit brings out some of the grenache-y bubblegum aromas, which (for me) detract from the unique qualities of Banyuls. Its Banyuls with training wheels, and good in that idiom, but I think I prefer something a little more authentic. (7/09)
Overgaauw 1997 Cape Vintage South African Liqueur Wine (Stellenbosch) I admire the attempt to avoid using the word port, but this seems a little convoluted. The wine, however, is anything but difficult. A burst nay, a fireworks display of berries, still structured but with nicely-maturing spices (clove, nutmeg), forward and fruity. Port is a category in which South Africans appear to take much pride, but I have to say that after tasted around a dozen on a recent trip, I found the category and many of the big names pretty mediocre. Not so this, a library release to contrast with the winerys more current vintage, and already showing a sophistication and worldliness that many of its brethren lack. No, its not up to the full range of complexities in a true Port, but its also not done maturing. (7/09)
Campbells Tokay (Rutherglen) From 375 ml. Sticky-sweet butterscotch and reduced, slightly charred clove honey. Brown sugar drizzled with grade B maple syrup. Did I mention the sugar? (7/09)
Dr. Parc Domaine du Mas Blanc 2006 Banyuls Fruit (Roussillon) Despite the name, this is red. Raspberry-sauced chocolate, full and (as promised) fruity, with only the minor interference of oxidation. However, the concentration on fruit brings out some of the grenache-y bubblegum aromas, which (for me) detract from the unique qualities of Banyuls. Its Banyuls with training wheels, and good in that idiom, but I think I prefer something a little more authentic. (7/09)
Overgaauw 1997 Cape Vintage South African Liqueur Wine (Stellenbosch) I admire the attempt to avoid using the word port, but this seems a little convoluted. The wine, however, is anything but difficult. A burst nay, a fireworks display of berries, still structured but with nicely-maturing spices (clove, nutmeg), forward and fruity. Port is a category in which South Africans appear to take much pride, but I have to say that after tasted around a dozen on a recent trip, I found the category and many of the big names pretty mediocre. Not so this, a library release to contrast with the winerys more current vintage, and already showing a sophistication and worldliness that many of its brethren lack. No, its not up to the full range of complexities in a true Port, but its also not done maturing. (7/09)
Campbells Tokay (Rutherglen) From 375 ml. Sticky-sweet butterscotch and reduced, slightly charred clove honey. Brown sugar drizzled with grade B maple syrup. Did I mention the sugar? (7/09)