TN: Sans soufre wines at Terroir, 8/24

slaton

Slaton Lipscomb
Very fun event, thanks guys.

2000 Movia Puro (Gorika Brda, Slovenia)
Lemony/grapefruit, floral, mineral aromas, with some toasty autolytic flavors, subtle oxidative elements and a bit of wood (which I later overheard L. bitching about). I thought this was quite tasty, with a delicious roundness in the mouth. My best experience yet with this wine, but still a pass at the going rate. As an aside, I've been told that Ale has refocused his sparkling production on the Puro ros and is no longer making this wine.

2000 Movia Puro Ros (Gorika Brda, Slovenia)
This was more difficult than the Puro white. Lifted, stinky/fermentative pinot noir nose, with some wood spice. Very funky palate, with good acid and gentle, spicy red fruit, but it really tasted unclean - something like a Gueze made from pinot noir. I've had happier experiences tasting this from bottles that had been open for an hour or more, but I didn't have the opportunity to retaste tonight.

1999 Domaine Valette Pouilly-Fuiss Clos de Monseur Noly
I believe this is a current release, made from late-harvested, botrytis affected fruit, with obviously long, oxidative aging in barrel. Intense butterscotch, salted caramel, dried pineapple aromatics. Strongly nutty and oxidative and very slightly sweet; something like Vin Santo made from chardonnay. Walnut/sherry flavors show even more strongly on the finish, which has monumental length. Completely over the top. I loved it for what it was, though it's not something I could imagine drinking more than a glass of. One of the more divisive wines of the evening; many of the folks I was with seemed to actively dislike it.

2000 Domaine de la Tournelle Arbois Vin Jaune
Volatile green walnut, varnish nose. Mouthfilling intensity and concentration, with baked apple, dried bay leaf and spice flavors, and biting grip in the mouth. Nice walnutty length, and once you get past the nose, fairly approachable for such a young Vin Jaune. Lovely, especially with comte (which we'd saved from a cheese plate).

2005 Binner Saveurs Printanires (Alsace AOC)
Nonvintage? A field blend of muscat, gewurztraminer, pinot gris, pinot blanc. Spicy, sweetly floral, aromatic fruit nose. Rich and slightly oily-textured in the mouth. Just a touch of a cidery, appley flavor as well. The gewurz and muscat spoke loudest to me here but it's pretty harmonious for a blend like this. Slightly loose and medium-framed, and quite tasty.

2000 Emmannuel Houillon (Pierre Overnoy) Arbois Pupillin Savagnin
Captivating. Still young and slightly aggressive, but much more generous than the '04 I tasted earlier this year. Really a wonderful, thought-provoking drink.

2008 Domaine de l'Anglore (Eric Pfifferling) Tavel Ros
This was a tale of two bottles. One had over the top brett that I couldn't see past; the other was beautiful. Floral, feminine, rose petal, pretty soft red fruits, almond, some brett/animale, a bit wild and unkempt. Challenging but to me simply gorgeous. I was crushed when L. insisted it was too fucked up and that they weren't going to sell it. Although from talking to others I did seem to be on a desert island all by myself with this one.

2008 Mark Angeli Ros d'un Jour (Vin de Table Franais)
From Anjou. Was hard to focus on this one as I was still thinking about the l'Anglore. Fermentative soft, slightly spicy red fruit aromas. Sweet and moderately fizzy, with firm-ish soft red fruits, some richness and animale. Didn't seem like a great placement in the lineup for a wine like this (w/ rs and bubbles).

2006 Massa Vecchia Rosato Maremma (Toscana IGT)
Merlot and malvasia nera. Herbal, savory, brett/animale nose. Deep, concentrated red wine palate, medium bodied, with aged tart cherry, herbal, brett/animale flavors. Reminds me of a 10-15 year old sangiovese/canaiolo blend from an old-school producer. Charmingly rustic, if pretty far from what I'd expect opening a rosato.

2006 Jean Maupertuis La Guillanume (Ctes d'Auvergne VDQS)
Another cloudy, funky, hypernatural ros. Dry. Didn't give this much of a shake, as it was getting late (and I was again thinking about that l'Anglore).

2008 Domaine de la Tournelle Arbois L'uva Arbosiana
Tasty soft, feminine aromatic red fruits, floral, sharp acid. Carbonic earth and toasted grain palate. No tannin. A bit tight still, but a pleasant poulsard that seems much in the same style as the 2007.

2008 Catherine et Pierre Breton Touraine "La Ritournelle"
Gamay with 20% pinot noir. Have had this a few times lately and it's fucking delicious. Bright, juicy, crunchy red and blue fruits, luscious acidity, some carbonic character, touch of earth and no tannin. I could, and plan to drink a lot of this over the coming months.
 
Quick work, slaton.

You didn't set the scene, though--many more cameras and flash bulbs than a Kane dinner. Still photographers pushing you out of the way at the bar to get a better shot of Luc, others popping up from behind the bar just as you spit into the bucket. Where were Dagan and Guilhaume anyway?

But the real show was the 2-camera movie being shot on the mezzanine by the crew from Folsom St. stalwart kink.com. Lights, camera, action!

I hope my residuals are worth the effort on that one.

Also, quite a crew of WIWP stars--Mike Dashe, Larry Stein; who was that woman in all the leather?

Anyhow, quite the goings on.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
But the real show was the 2-camera movie being shot on the mezzanine by the crew from Folsom St. stalwart kink.com. Lights, camera, action!
Quote of the night: "It's the opening scene. I think they go straight from there to a dungeon." (Wolfgang)
 
On the wines, I have to express my general disappointment. I was mostly unmoved, and not because of microbiological flaws. A bunch of the wines just didn't thrill me. Maybe I was in a pissy mood.

The Movia white was pleasant but a little soft on the palate to me.

The Movia pink was sweaty, estery, a bit woody? Didn't groove on this. Dumped.

The Valette was too much of everything. I dumped mine.

The '00 Overnoy was totally delicious and thrilling. Light on its feet, great balance, yum.

Tournelle VJ was quite good, fresh, clear. Not the greatest yellow wine, but perfectly fine.

The Binner was also fresh and clean, but a little high in terpenes and low in acid. I don't love gewurtz, and this was dominated by it, so YMMV.

The Pfifferling was stinky with H2S, had some rs, I found it tedious.

The Angeli had refermented pretty far, though it still had some rs. This was not what he'd intended for the wine.

The Massavecchio rosato was molto BandAids. Too much brett for me.

The Maupertuis struck me as generic hipster juice, too unstructured, OK but wouldn't buy it.

The Tournelle was vvg hipster wine. Not the Noodle's own poulsard, but quite nice.

So all in all, I wish I'd bought a bottle of the Overnoy.
 
Thanks for posting notes Slaton, I wanted to go but could not make it. For me this week, Santa Cruz is
so near yet so far... aarrgh!
 
The Valette was too much of everything. I dumped mine.
My usual reaction, alas.

The Binner was also fresh and clean, but a little high in terpenes and low in acid. I don't love gewurtz, and this was dominated by it, so YMMV.
One of an ever-growing list of reasons why Deiss is an idiot; this is always the case in such wines.

Binner suffers from the full range of VLM's "hipster wine" issues. And I say that despite liking a lot of Binner's wines, something I can't say about all of the other hipsters in the region. Not that there are all that many.
 
dagan and guilhaume got the night off, and most of you missed the bloodspray from luc's finger when he nearly cut it off. good night, and we opened another bottle of overnoy for ourselves after everyone left.

(this is cory by the way, being too fucking lazy to log into my own account.
 
Interesting notes, fellows.

Surprised that you liked the Valette M. Noly, Slaton. My experience with it was more like Joe's.

The Binner I have always found too much of too much roll me in a field of dogwood blossoms or something, and very gewrz-y (though one could argue that Alsace field blends and I are like Santa Claus versus the Martians).

Agree about the 00 Overnoy; a bottle a couple of months ago at Ten Bells in NY was fabulous drinking.

As for the Tournelle wines, it sounds as though they were pretty good? I have never had anything from that producer and have been curious.
 
originally posted by slaton:
2000 Movia Puro Ros (Gorika Brda, Slovenia)
This was more difficult than the Puro white. Lifted, stinky/fermentative pinot noir nose, with some wood spice. Very funky palate, with good acid and gentle, spicy red fruit, but it really tasted unclean - something like a Gueze made from pinot noir. I've had happier experiences tasting this from bottles that had been open for an hour or more, but I didn't have the opportunity to retaste tonight.

I've had spectacular experiences with this. Not sure whether it was the 2000 or not (but probably on at least one occasion).

1999 Domaine Valette Pouilly-Fuiss Clos de Monseur Noly
I believe this is a current release, made from late-harvested, botrytis affected fruit, with obviously long, oxidative aging in barrel. Intense butterscotch, salted caramel, dried pineapple aromatics. Strongly nutty and oxidative and very slightly sweet; something like Vin Santo made from chardonnay. Walnut/sherry flavors show even more strongly on the finish, which has monumental length. Completely over the top. I loved it for what it was, though it's not something I could imagine drinking more than a glass of. One of the more divisive wines of the evening; many of the folks I was with seemed to actively dislike it.

This wine is simply terrible. Best to stick to the Macon VV.

2006 Jean Maupertuis La Guillanume (Ctes d'Auvergne VDQS)
Another cloudy, funky, hypernatural ros. Dry. Didn't give this much of a shake, as it was getting late (and I was again thinking about that l'Anglore).

I had a 2007 while in NYC that was fantastic. At dinner with decidedly non-geeky folks who all dug it. FWIW, I used to have good luck with non-geeks and Peyra at 360 as well.

2008 Catherine et Pierre Breton Touraine "La Ritournelle"
Gamay with 20% pinot noir. Have had this a few times lately and it's fucking delicious. Bright, juicy, crunchy red and blue fruits, luscious acidity, some carbonic character, touch of earth and no tannin. I could, and plan to drink a lot of this over the coming months.

Fuck Catherine and Pierre.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
But the real show was the 2-camera movie being shot on the mezzanine by the crew from Folsom St. stalwart kink.com. Lights, camera, action!

I hope my residuals are worth the effort on that one.

Man, I can't believe I missed it. Did you work out your anger using the bullwhip?
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Interesting notes, fellows.

Surprised that you liked the Valette M. Noly, Slaton. My experience with it was more like Joe's.

Bullshit, you're the biggest Valette apologist I know.
 
even though it's from a shitty iphone camera.
call it "just before the gore".

luc-cory.jpg
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by VLM:


Fuck Catherine and Pierre.
You can say that again.

Anyone want an original edition numbered Epaule Jete poster?

Am I correct in assuming this is more to do with importer/reindeer games than anything to do with the wine?

duck and cover,

Kevin
 
very gewrz-y (though one could argue that Alsace field blends and I are like Santa Claus versus the Martians)
That's Alsatian field blends, though. You'd better like gewurztraminer. Or if it's absent, you'd better like muscat. If that's absent, pinot gris. Then auxerrois. By the time you get down to anything like an actual blend of partners, rather than someone playing Megadeth over Debussy, there's nothing left. Only from very, very rare terroirs and talented hands can they be anything else. Yet another reason to be suspicious.
 
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