Beaujolais producer question (+ TN '07 Morgon)

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Larry Stein

Larry Stein
Any of you heard of Jean-Paul Dubost? He makes Fleurie, Morgon, and Moulin-a-Vent. I picked up a bottle of '07 Morgon on Sat. from the local importer. The label states that it's sans soufre and that indigenous yeasts were used. Also, unfiltered and no chapitalization.

I'm going to open it tonight.
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I did find a website for Dubost. It's in French so I can only pick out bits and pieces.

This is very nice Morgon. There's some tannic grip and very good acidity. The fruit core is totally in balance with those elements. Some earthiness. More black fruit than red, but it doesn't veer totally towards the black side. No palate holes from entrance through the finish. Excellent length at the back end.

I'm going to save half the bottle for tomorrow night. This is a definite buy.
 
Larry, who is the 'local importer' for these?

And how would you compare this Morgon stylistically to other '07s, e.g. Foillard, Thevenet, Lapierre, Bouland, G. Descombes, Breton?
 
The importer is Old Vine Imports. Bob (the owner) pretty much sells only to private clients and restaurants currently. The only retail account he consistently sells to is Draeger's markets.

I haven't had any '07s other than this one. I know, I know, I've been remiss. If I had to take a SWAG based on other vintages, it's closer to the Foillard end of the spectrum (larger-scaled) than Lapierre (on the silkier end). No brett a la Thevenet. Hope that helps.

It doesn't pretend to be Burgundy which I know is a complaint (not from me) about some wines in '05.

There's also Fleurie available. Unfortunately, Moulin-a-Vent is sold out.

I can probably order up to a case, of which I only want 4 btls. $19/btl.
 
What about the carbonic influence? Is there any? (Always happy to hear about more good Morgon. I saw a new producer around here recently, but forgot the name, perhaps I'll have to try it).
 
Rahsaan, I don't detect any whatsoever. Bob said this producer reminds him of the Beaujolais he used to taste from the 50s and 60s (and he would know).
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
Rahsaan, I don't detect any whatsoever. Bob said this producer reminds him of the Beaujolais he used to taste from the 50s and 60s (and he would know).
Click to expand...

Interesting blend of no carbonic and no Burgundian structure. From my limited experience it seems like those have often been the two main styles. I'll look for it. I certainly wasn't tasting Beaujolais in the 50s and 60s!
 
Bought and tried a 2020 Dubost Moulin-a-Vent 'En Brenay' tonight - bright, citric, scrubby, crunchy-gritty Gamay dirt. Definitely carbonic. Rosenthal imports, and I checked their website:

"From 60 year old Gamay vines in the lieu-dit of “En Brenay” at the southern end of Moulin-à-Vent, with soils rich in manganese, granite and iron schists. The harvest undergoes a full carbonic maceration of whole clusters over one month in concrete and steel tanks, with twice daily pump-overs. Raised undisturbed through the winter in two-thirds concrete and steel tanks and one-third 500-liter barrels, 15 years of age. Bottled with a light filtration and minimal sulphur. 2,000 cases are produced on average each year. There’s an underlying warmth here, albeit one which is lifted by gorgeous spice; brooding and granular, this possesses a real depth of structure."

The rest of the reds are semi-carbonic, if https://rosenthalwinemerchant.com/growers/dubost/wines/ is to be believed.
 
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