Knoll Weingut am Stein 2007 Silvaner (Franken) Salty, spicy, and strikingly vivid. Theres a green edge, but its a ripe greenness, and its thoroughly dominated by the mineral salts and lively aggression of the wine. Really good, and not just for sylvaner. (10/09)
Finkenauer 2005 Kreuznacher Osterhlt Riesling Sptlese Semi-Dry 18 06 (Nahe) Straining and stretching, seemingly forcing itself into a misty, photo-negative role its not quite built for. Its minerality is worn on the exterior, the apple skin and gale-force winds that comprise the wines fruit are in the interior. This is a reversal of rieslings usual form, and while its interesting, Im not sure its to the wines benefit. Emphasis, in that last sentence, on the not sure; Im more than a little uncertain about how to assess this wine? Good? Trying to hard? I dunno. (10/09)
Kesseler 2005 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 009 05 (Rheingau) Riesling on fire, and I dont mean that in a qualitative way; if a wine at this fairly low alcohol level can be said to have a little excess burn, this would be a top candidate. Along with the heat comes the inevitable weight, and this is far from the balance it would need to show its ripe, steel-jacketed apple and walnut character in any sort of presentable form. (10/09)
Studert-Prm 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Sptlese 2 07 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Sweet flowers made of metal and cold sunshine, but its the steel thats growing ever more dominant in this wine, which is insistent and powerful despite the apparent lightness of its carriage. Its still difficult for me to accept that this is the weight one must expect from a Sptlese, but I guess thats the modern paradigm. Drink very soon, or let it age. (8/09)
Finkenauer 2005 Kreuznacher Osterhlt Riesling Sptlese Semi-Dry 18 06 (Nahe) Straining and stretching, seemingly forcing itself into a misty, photo-negative role its not quite built for. Its minerality is worn on the exterior, the apple skin and gale-force winds that comprise the wines fruit are in the interior. This is a reversal of rieslings usual form, and while its interesting, Im not sure its to the wines benefit. Emphasis, in that last sentence, on the not sure; Im more than a little uncertain about how to assess this wine? Good? Trying to hard? I dunno. (10/09)
Kesseler 2005 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett 009 05 (Rheingau) Riesling on fire, and I dont mean that in a qualitative way; if a wine at this fairly low alcohol level can be said to have a little excess burn, this would be a top candidate. Along with the heat comes the inevitable weight, and this is far from the balance it would need to show its ripe, steel-jacketed apple and walnut character in any sort of presentable form. (10/09)
Studert-Prm 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Sptlese 2 07 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Sweet flowers made of metal and cold sunshine, but its the steel thats growing ever more dominant in this wine, which is insistent and powerful despite the apparent lightness of its carriage. Its still difficult for me to accept that this is the weight one must expect from a Sptlese, but I guess thats the modern paradigm. Drink very soon, or let it age. (8/09)