I just don't get Aligot

M

MLipton

Mark Lipton
I'm sure that it underscores some great failing on my part and will likely result in my forced rehabilitation in a Gulag somewhere, but...

Tonight we opened a bottle of the DeMoor MMVIII A Ligato-o Tirage de Printemps to accompany a light dinner of spinach-cheese phyllo "bags" and bread with cheese. The wine was crisp, tart, slightly herbal and that's about it. Jean gave up on it after one glass, while I played with temperature and food pairing to see if I could coax more out of it. Alas, I couldn't. Now, if this were my first encounter with Aligot I wouldn't make much of it, but we've now had 3 that I can recall, including de Villaine's 2004 Bouzeron. In all cases, I've been unmoved by the wine, finding it rather charmless and devoid of interest. It isn't simply a matter of acidity, as I gladly quaff wines more acidic than these and even enjoy them.

So, is it some genetic problem that both Jean and I possess? Have we done something wrong with these wines? Or is this a known problem for some?

Mark Lipton
 
I've been generally underwhelmed. However, one time I was talked into a bottle of Ramonets' '02 by Keith Wollenberg at K&L. It was really a wonderful bottle of wine. Bright fresh, clean, crisp, vibrant, citric and so on.
I may never buy another, but on that night....
 
De Villaine is my ref. std. and I like them, yet you have to manage expectations...You aren't going to get the complexity you will find in the greatest wines, but it is what it is....

I've always thought the chevy was drinkable too...

Dom. d'Auvenay aren't too bad if you can find 'um.

I was hoping there would be some good '07s.

-mark
 
Ponsot's 1er cru MOREY ST DENIS CLOS DES MONTS LUISANTS has been 100% Aligot
[previouly also had some Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges] for some years now and is still AFAIK well regarded although exceptions are often said to prove a rule.

I have not had it in its mono-varietal state [actually for well over 10 years] but Aligot was always a prime constituent.
 
Wow, I feel as though I'm the only one who likes aligot around here. It ages well, too.

I'm going to have several in upcoming days and report back.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Wow, I feel as though I'm the only one who likes aligot around here. It ages well, too.

I'm going to have several in upcoming days and report back.
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No, I'm with you, but it has to come from the right terroirs and the right vegetal material.

I'm surprised at Mark's experience. I don't know DeMoor's Aligot, but the reputation is good.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Wow, I feel as though I'm the only one who likes aligot around here. It ages well, too.

I'm going to have several in upcoming days and report back.
Click to expand...

Cool. I'd love to hear what you come up with. I also like aligot but in truth they are few and far between locally. I've always liked the aligot from Goisot in Saint Bris and the one from Marcel Giraudon in Chitry is really good also.
 
the leroy aligote is something else. they manage to make compelling white burgundy out of it, and it seemed like there was a lot more than barrel magic going on.
 
originally posted by john McCarthy:
Cool. I'd love to hear what you come up with. I also like aligot but in truth they are few and far between locally. I've always liked the aligot from Goisot in Saint Bris and the one from Marcel Giraudon in Chitry is really good also.
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I'm a big fan of Goisot. I also like Lafarge.
 
I was going to mention Goisot. I've had more than a few examples from a range of vintages and I'm always quite satisfied. I've never had an aged example though.

And just to drift into cortese, I've liked Degli Ulivi's wine's quite a bit.
 
Degli Ulivi's Filagnotti Gavi is on of my favorites. Aging in acacia does cool things to cortese. Also, the Domaine Derain's Allez Goutons is one of the coolest aligote i've had. It is super light and fresh, 10.7% alcohol and very "natural" in its approach. Likely the most intersting aligote that you dont need to add cassis to. Also, if all else fails try drinking aligote from a porron! It will make it more fun at least.
 
aligote always seems to me to be inapropriately acidic, i get no balance. i assume that is why it is one of the only wines that is most famous when mixed with something else...
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
aligote always seems to me to be inapropriately acidic, i get no balance. i assume that is why it is one of the only wines that is most famous when mixed with something else...
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Uh, no.
 
originally posted by jack hott:

And just to drift into cortese, I've liked Degli Ulivi's wine's quite a bit.
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Absolutely.

There are wonderful and even inspiring Cortese based wines out there. Ulivi would come right to mind as a producer making some.

But that is not the normal run.

I think the same can be said of Aligote. There are some bottles of real interest out there, and then a lot that isn't of much interest.

In the case of both, I would think that most examples never leave the home country.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
the leroy aligote is something else. they manage to make compelling white burgundy out of it, and it seemed like there was a lot more than barrel magic going on.
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for $80 a bottle.
 
originally posted by Matteo Mollo:
Aging in acacia does cool things to cortese.
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I am often drawn to wines aged in acacia. There is perfumed quality to the wood influence.

Dettori Bianco and the still Casa Coste Piane would come to mind.
 
originally posted by guilhaume:
originally posted by robert ames:
the leroy aligote is something else. they manage to make compelling white burgundy out of it, and it seemed like there was a lot more than barrel magic going on.
Click to expand...

for $80 a bottle.
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That's fucking stupid. '76 Derain Aligote was my house white for years at $125 a case.
 
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