Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
2007 Hex Von Wein Cabernet Sauvignon 12.6%
The name is silly wordplay (Witches' Wine) but I couldn't resist the first Brazilian wine that I've ever seen made from organically grown fruit. And one with a promising alcohol level. This is made by a cooperative called Coopernatural in a town I've never heard of called Picada Caf in the southernmost state of Rio Grande do Sul (where most Brazilian wine is made). Initial aroma is sour cherry, nothing more. On tasting, a strong note of anis emerges. Before food, everything disappoints: tannins are weak, acid and fruit are deficient. After food, it tastes dilute. Disaster. But after this low, it breathes and gains some body, developing meaty and saline characteristics that leave an improved final impression. Marcia comments that we're so used to finding overripe fruit in the acid deficient wines that we taste that it's puzzling to find both deficient. Though this was inadequate, I'd like to think their heart is in the right place (no sign of acidification, chaptalization or overripe picking). But they are probably dealing with very young vines and 2007 was a mediocre vintage in Brazil. Maybe someday. I hope I didn't depress anybody.
*I know there are no organic wines, only wines made from organic fruit, but the title would be too cumbersome.
The name is silly wordplay (Witches' Wine) but I couldn't resist the first Brazilian wine that I've ever seen made from organically grown fruit. And one with a promising alcohol level. This is made by a cooperative called Coopernatural in a town I've never heard of called Picada Caf in the southernmost state of Rio Grande do Sul (where most Brazilian wine is made). Initial aroma is sour cherry, nothing more. On tasting, a strong note of anis emerges. Before food, everything disappoints: tannins are weak, acid and fruit are deficient. After food, it tastes dilute. Disaster. But after this low, it breathes and gains some body, developing meaty and saline characteristics that leave an improved final impression. Marcia comments that we're so used to finding overripe fruit in the acid deficient wines that we taste that it's puzzling to find both deficient. Though this was inadequate, I'd like to think their heart is in the right place (no sign of acidification, chaptalization or overripe picking). But they are probably dealing with very young vines and 2007 was a mediocre vintage in Brazil. Maybe someday. I hope I didn't depress anybody.
*I know there are no organic wines, only wines made from organic fruit, but the title would be too cumbersome.