Nera La Novella 2008 Chiavennasca Bianco Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio (Lombardy) Brisk and almost sandpapery, showing pear concentrate lashed with skin and a weighty press of immediacy. Very aromatic, but those aromatics are direct. This remains a killer blind-tasting wine, but I cant possibly see how anyone could, other than blind luck, guess nebbiolo as the grape. (2/10)
i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 2004 Galea Colli Orientali del Friuli (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) Drinking a young Galea can be a little like trying to slake a hearty thirst with an icicle. This is no exception, and even though its decanted early and aggressively, not much can be coaxed from it over the course of an hour, other than beige minerality and a firm structure. I love these wines, but I love them with age, and since even the 1997 (the first vintage of this wine) isnt yet fully mature to my palate, I see no reason to submit any additional stocks to this manner of infanticide. (2/10)
Frecciarossa 2008 Oltrep Pavese Riesling Gli Orti (Lombardy) A bit on the heavy side for riesling, taking an unquestioned concentration and overdoing it a bit. Having now experienced a grand total of two Oltrep Pavese rieslings, I can see that this weight is suggested by the terroir, but that not everyone handles it in the same way. Here, preserved lemon and leaden minerality are pleasant, and little accents of makrut lime and lemon verbena (both in tisane, rather than fresh, form) are even more welcome, but the wines just a bit too tiresome for complete enjoyment. Maybe age will help, though Im skeptical. (2/10)
Colosi 2005 Malvasia delle Lipari (Sicily) From 375 ml. Less concentrated and floral than Hauners version, with more of a metallic edge unfolding within the sweetness. That said, its still fairly dense. Tastes better than it smells. (2/10)
Cascina degli Ulivi 2007 Gavi Filagnotti (Piedmont) Spiky, extremely volatile, and with those fetid, cheesy notes that together with the other qualities indicate a wine that has undergone some sort of refermentation/spoilage process. Theres a soft but audible pop the first time the cork is removed, and every time thereafter, and the texture has a discernable prickle to it. Alas, because this is a fascinating (albeit somewhat atypical) wine when its intact. (2/10)
Zonin Prosecco Brut (Italy) Insipid metallic fizz, character-free and mercifully short. (2/10)
i Clivi di Ferdinando Zanusso 2004 Galea Colli Orientali del Friuli (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) Drinking a young Galea can be a little like trying to slake a hearty thirst with an icicle. This is no exception, and even though its decanted early and aggressively, not much can be coaxed from it over the course of an hour, other than beige minerality and a firm structure. I love these wines, but I love them with age, and since even the 1997 (the first vintage of this wine) isnt yet fully mature to my palate, I see no reason to submit any additional stocks to this manner of infanticide. (2/10)
Frecciarossa 2008 Oltrep Pavese Riesling Gli Orti (Lombardy) A bit on the heavy side for riesling, taking an unquestioned concentration and overdoing it a bit. Having now experienced a grand total of two Oltrep Pavese rieslings, I can see that this weight is suggested by the terroir, but that not everyone handles it in the same way. Here, preserved lemon and leaden minerality are pleasant, and little accents of makrut lime and lemon verbena (both in tisane, rather than fresh, form) are even more welcome, but the wines just a bit too tiresome for complete enjoyment. Maybe age will help, though Im skeptical. (2/10)
Colosi 2005 Malvasia delle Lipari (Sicily) From 375 ml. Less concentrated and floral than Hauners version, with more of a metallic edge unfolding within the sweetness. That said, its still fairly dense. Tastes better than it smells. (2/10)
Cascina degli Ulivi 2007 Gavi Filagnotti (Piedmont) Spiky, extremely volatile, and with those fetid, cheesy notes that together with the other qualities indicate a wine that has undergone some sort of refermentation/spoilage process. Theres a soft but audible pop the first time the cork is removed, and every time thereafter, and the texture has a discernable prickle to it. Alas, because this is a fascinating (albeit somewhat atypical) wine when its intact. (2/10)
Zonin Prosecco Brut (Italy) Insipid metallic fizz, character-free and mercifully short. (2/10)