Fromm La Strada 2002 Pinot Noir (Marlborough) The hyper-masculine aggression of this wine has really been shed over the last year or so, which is something I didnt expect to happen quickly or, in my more pessimistic moments, at all. Its still no delicate flower, for sure, but now both the flavors and the overall body are something more recognizable as pinot noir, albeit still far, far on the fringes of the weight thats typical from anyone else growing this grape in Marlborough. (Well, except maybe Glovers, but thats mostly about tannin.) The dusty, black-soiled elements are now met by freshening acidity, while a scowling array of berries must accept the presence of lighter, crisper elements in their midst. This wine, always so brutish in the past, is undergoing a fascinating transformation, but I wonder if Ill have the patience to wait this story out to its denouement; Ive only a few bottles left. (3/10)
Donaldson Family Main Divide 2005 Riesling (New Zealand) Fruity and a little aggressive, but the bones are just starting to show through the skin, and the wines picked up a brittleness it didnt have even a few months ago. I dont know if its closing or fading. (3/10)
Dog Point 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Goes right to the heart of Marlborough sauvignon-ness (sauvignon-icity?) but in a defter, more polished way than the abrasive style that made the region. This, in case its not clear, is a good thing. Underripe citrus and grass vie with just enough razory acidity for dominance, and while the wines racy enough, its neither tooth-scraping nor functionally underripe. Solid, paradigm-defining wine. Which is not to say that theres not better out there, because there is. (3/10)
Two Hands 2003 Shiraz Bad Impersonator (Barossa Valley) 15.0%. Really not bad at all. Powerful, for sure, and this is a decidedly berry-dominated expression of syrah, but thats not unexpected. Theres black pepper and some iron-flake minerality, too. Balanced in its steroidal fashion. I admit that, to my surprise, I find this quite appealing. (4/10)
Palliser Estate 2005 Pinot Noir (Martinborough) If theres a standard New Zealand pinot noir character, with adjustments for climate and vintage, this has it: dark and intense berried fruit, beet (and lots of it), a little hint of blood orange rind, and liquid earth with a fully-integrated structure, even in its youth. Straightforward, approachable, and tasty. (4/10)
Voyager Estate 2006 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon (Margaret River) Grassy grapefruit rind, crisp and slightly overdriven. Its a very refreshing drink, but its the refreshment of a fruit-based soda more than a wine. Still, it seems churlish to complain, because this is neither advertised as nor attempting to be some vinous sophisticate. I suspect it would be even better with food. (4/10)
Juniper Crossing 2005 Shiraz (Margaret River) Its the power of suggestion, perhaps, but this does taste like its eponymous aromatic. Maybe its pine needle, maybe theres a cedar element, but after consideration it really does smell of juniper and forest. Theres dark, dark, dark fruit as well, though the weight of it isnt as heavy as such opacity usually indicates. Its a simple, basic wine, but it does have that intriguing individualism, and I enjoy it as the bargain it is. (5/10)
Mohua 2008 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) Starts off with the bitter beet, dusty blackberry, and blood orange rind so common to New Zealand pinots (is this a clonal issue? it sure seems ubiquitous), but then goes absolutely nowhere. Half of a good wine. Wheres the second act? (5/10)
Donaldson Family Main Divide 2005 Riesling (New Zealand) Fruity and a little aggressive, but the bones are just starting to show through the skin, and the wines picked up a brittleness it didnt have even a few months ago. I dont know if its closing or fading. (3/10)
Dog Point 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Goes right to the heart of Marlborough sauvignon-ness (sauvignon-icity?) but in a defter, more polished way than the abrasive style that made the region. This, in case its not clear, is a good thing. Underripe citrus and grass vie with just enough razory acidity for dominance, and while the wines racy enough, its neither tooth-scraping nor functionally underripe. Solid, paradigm-defining wine. Which is not to say that theres not better out there, because there is. (3/10)
Two Hands 2003 Shiraz Bad Impersonator (Barossa Valley) 15.0%. Really not bad at all. Powerful, for sure, and this is a decidedly berry-dominated expression of syrah, but thats not unexpected. Theres black pepper and some iron-flake minerality, too. Balanced in its steroidal fashion. I admit that, to my surprise, I find this quite appealing. (4/10)
Palliser Estate 2005 Pinot Noir (Martinborough) If theres a standard New Zealand pinot noir character, with adjustments for climate and vintage, this has it: dark and intense berried fruit, beet (and lots of it), a little hint of blood orange rind, and liquid earth with a fully-integrated structure, even in its youth. Straightforward, approachable, and tasty. (4/10)
Voyager Estate 2006 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon (Margaret River) Grassy grapefruit rind, crisp and slightly overdriven. Its a very refreshing drink, but its the refreshment of a fruit-based soda more than a wine. Still, it seems churlish to complain, because this is neither advertised as nor attempting to be some vinous sophisticate. I suspect it would be even better with food. (4/10)
Juniper Crossing 2005 Shiraz (Margaret River) Its the power of suggestion, perhaps, but this does taste like its eponymous aromatic. Maybe its pine needle, maybe theres a cedar element, but after consideration it really does smell of juniper and forest. Theres dark, dark, dark fruit as well, though the weight of it isnt as heavy as such opacity usually indicates. Its a simple, basic wine, but it does have that intriguing individualism, and I enjoy it as the bargain it is. (5/10)
Mohua 2008 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) Starts off with the bitter beet, dusty blackberry, and blood orange rind so common to New Zealand pinots (is this a clonal issue? it sure seems ubiquitous), but then goes absolutely nowhere. Half of a good wine. Wheres the second act? (5/10)