Lageder 2006 Pinot Bianco Haberle (Alto Adige) I dont know if this is mature, because this is as long as Ive ever let a bottle age, but this is certainly rounding into something more interesting than its fallow infancy. Fruits have yellowed (but the pinks and greens remain), minerality has helixed with texture to provide something sinuous in the background, and theres a slowly-enveloping sense of roundness. Quite impressive. (5/10)
La Mondianese 2007 Grignolino dAsti (Piedmont) Surprisingly dark, solid, and insistent for a grignolino. The oxidation is there, but its subservient to a pale lavender fruit, rich and full, that hides the pale openness so endemic to the grape and region. Complexity is provided by a rich stew of well-dried petals. Fascinating. (5/10)
COS 2007 Frappato (Sicily) Volatile acidity, first and foremost. Thankfully, it fades a bit, and then theres strawberry and grayish-white minerality. A very delicate wine. The minerality grows with air, but Id like a little more aromatic interest here. Juicy acidity. The finish is a little reminiscent of a prune eau-de-vie. (5/10)
Radikon 2003 Ribolla Gialla (Venezia Giulia) Creamy, with that odd tension between stone fruit and ripe red berries that so often marks this grape when made in this fashion. Theres skin tannin, but its milder than normal (possibly a consequence of the vintage, though if so it runs counter to the excess/underripe-tannin problem that plagues so many 2003s), and while the wine feels heavy on the palate, it lightens considerably by the time the finish rolls around. A good, not great, Radikon ribolla, but considering the elevated starting position theres no real shame in that. (3/10)
Castello di Lispida 2002 Amphora Bianco (Veneto) Corked. (3/10)
dOrta e de Conciliis 2008 Falanghina del Beneventano (Campania) Aggressive citrus-aisle fruit, with a little too much alcohol and a lot too much polish. Never goes anywhere. I feel like its trying to say something, but I cant comprehend anything interesting given all the shouting. (5/10)
Forsoni Sanguineto I e II 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano (Tuscany) Earthen strawberries, dark and dusty, though this is either in an odd transitional stage or showing signs of wear, as structurally its a little disjointed and rough. I dont have sufficient years of experience with the wine to know which it is. Still, despite the inconsistencies, its as appealing and food-adoring as it always is. (4/10)
Umani Ronchi 2008 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Casal dei Cavalier (Marches) Straightforward brittle, biting greenness. Not much else. Clean, simple, drinkable. (4/10)
La Mondianese 2007 Grignolino dAsti (Piedmont) Surprisingly dark, solid, and insistent for a grignolino. The oxidation is there, but its subservient to a pale lavender fruit, rich and full, that hides the pale openness so endemic to the grape and region. Complexity is provided by a rich stew of well-dried petals. Fascinating. (5/10)
COS 2007 Frappato (Sicily) Volatile acidity, first and foremost. Thankfully, it fades a bit, and then theres strawberry and grayish-white minerality. A very delicate wine. The minerality grows with air, but Id like a little more aromatic interest here. Juicy acidity. The finish is a little reminiscent of a prune eau-de-vie. (5/10)
Radikon 2003 Ribolla Gialla (Venezia Giulia) Creamy, with that odd tension between stone fruit and ripe red berries that so often marks this grape when made in this fashion. Theres skin tannin, but its milder than normal (possibly a consequence of the vintage, though if so it runs counter to the excess/underripe-tannin problem that plagues so many 2003s), and while the wine feels heavy on the palate, it lightens considerably by the time the finish rolls around. A good, not great, Radikon ribolla, but considering the elevated starting position theres no real shame in that. (3/10)
Castello di Lispida 2002 Amphora Bianco (Veneto) Corked. (3/10)
dOrta e de Conciliis 2008 Falanghina del Beneventano (Campania) Aggressive citrus-aisle fruit, with a little too much alcohol and a lot too much polish. Never goes anywhere. I feel like its trying to say something, but I cant comprehend anything interesting given all the shouting. (5/10)
Forsoni Sanguineto I e II 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano (Tuscany) Earthen strawberries, dark and dusty, though this is either in an odd transitional stage or showing signs of wear, as structurally its a little disjointed and rough. I dont have sufficient years of experience with the wine to know which it is. Still, despite the inconsistencies, its as appealing and food-adoring as it always is. (4/10)
Umani Ronchi 2008 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Casal dei Cavalier (Marches) Straightforward brittle, biting greenness. Not much else. Clean, simple, drinkable. (4/10)