Matteo Mollo
Matteo Mollo
This past week we were happy to welcome the elusive wines of Elian Da Ros into the shop. I wanted to post some tasting notes and also a bit of an interview we did with him, which was cool.
The backwater of the Cotes du Marmandais is home to Elian Da Ros' generations old family winery which he revitalized and took control of in the mid 1990's. His farm is about 16 ha, of which 8 are biodynamic (though he uses the practices on all the sites to some degree). He learned biodynamics at Z-H in the Alsace and further studied in Burgundy. All wines are natural. Native yeast ferments and gently handled.
Some tasting notes and info:
2006 Coucou Blanc, VdT, 13.5%.
A blend of sauv. blanc, sauv. gris, semillon reflecting the Marmandais' proximity to Bordeaux. The wine reflects Da Ros' time spent at Zind-Humbrecht. It is bone dry though very rich and complex. At once floral and chablis-like and next smokey and spice laden (5 cases imported).
2008 Le Vin est une Fete, Cotes du Marmandais, 12.5%
Merlot, Cabernet franc and abouriou(~10%). A playful yet seriously complex little wine. Juicy and fresh but with just enough gritty crunch to keep it standing. (Da Ros dismisses any theories suggesting his ancestral roots in the Veneto play a role in the structure of his wines).
2008 Abouriou, Cotes du Marmandais, 12.5%
The traditional local varietal all by its lonesome. You really get a sense of Da Ros' winemaking talent here, as the varietal isn't known to produce wines of exceptional quality or complexity. Whereas abouriou is typically soft, fruity and uncomplicated, this one has impeccable balance and great acidity. This is whole cluster fermented giving wonderful aromas. This can really make any well made cru beaujolais stand on its head (and be quite jealous). (7 cases imported)
2006 Clos Bacquey, CdMarmandais, 13%
This is produced fron a historically significant vineyard that has been farmed biodynamically since 2002. The vineyard sits upon limestone soild, benefitting the merlot most of all though cabernet franc, abouriou and cabernet sauv. are also present. Da Ros notes that in the vintages since the conversion to biodynamics, the wine has shown riper tannin and higher acidity, making for a better balanced and more age-worthy wine. This wine is concentrated and firm with a dark core but a lovely transparent color. The wine has richness that abounds yet it remains weightless. Extraordinary. (4 cases imported, and we plan to drink at least one by ourselves).
The Interview: (M.D. is Mike du Puy)
Thank very much you for your interest in my work and wines. I answered your questions writing I, but note that I am nothing without my team, the ladies who work hard in the vineyards all year long, the harvest team Regards, Elian
{M.D.} How do you describe your role in the winemaking process?
{Da Ros} I do not work with an oenologist, I vinify all my wines by myself. The days before harvest I go in the vineyard and taste the grapes, sometimes I go 2-3 times a day, little by little images, sensations are popping up and the big lines of the vintage become clearer and clearer in my mind. The day of harvest I try to listen to my feelings and [make] the best decisions. Also, you have to be very rigorous, and devoted to what you are doing. Harvest is once a year, you have to be 100% dedicated. It is like maneuvering a big ship, you have 30 persons working (harvest team) and you have to take decisions one after another.
{M.D.} Youve said that 8 hectares is the limit of what is humanly possible for one winemaker to farm biodynamically. Can you explain?
{Da Ros} What I said is a bit different. If a producer is working by himself, spreading biodynamics [preparations] by hand (back spray), 8 ha is the maximum he can do. Assuming that [preparations] have to be spread within 2 hours after being prepared, that you can work only a couple of days (fruit day, or roots day according to moon calendar are only 2 or 3 days in a row), a man can treat roughly 2 ha per hour (with back spray). Over 8 hectares you need to be assisted either by machine (tractors, quad ) or by other people.
{M.D.} How do you feel about the article written by William Jefford about your winery?
(An article entitled Elian Da Ros A Question of Confidence was originally published in Decanters December 2006 issue, describing the talent and confidence required for a winemaker to succeed in an appellation as seemingly insignificant as the Marmandais)
{Da Ros} I am very touched by the article, he described my work [well] and the challenges I have (or had) to face but also the pleasure to make wine where nobody expected it. I always believed in my homeland, Ive bet on it. I stayed focused on that idea and built everything around to make my dream come true. But I will not use the word confidence, I will rather say that I am a man with good will and with a pinch of insouciance (un homme avec beaucoup de bonne volont et une pointe dinsouciance, je suis peut tre un peu fou !! qui sait?) Also if I understood the article at one point William Jefford talks about price (quadruple, triple..) but I never wanted to make expensive wines I want to make good wine
{M.D.} What is different between making wine in Alsace and making wine in the Marmandais?
{Da Ros} The approach of vines and grapes is the same anywhere: hard and rigorous work in the vineyad and as [few] as possible unnecessary actions in the cellars. Here in Marmandais it is important to be very careful and focused on extraction. We have grapes full of tannin and the key point is to control the extraction to have a balance between fruit, freshness and tannin. On the other hand in Alsace the focus is on the [pressing] of the whites. In case of doubts [or] questions, I cannot rely on anyone (old man or other producers) to advise me, (in Alsace you have so many good winemakers), so sometimes I feel a little lonely. Hopefully I have good friends in other regions who I can talk to. AOC Ctes du Marmandais is not famous, which is both an advantage and a drawback promoting and selling Marmandais wine is a challenge (nobody knows the AOC!!), but on the other hand all is possible, everything is to be built, people do not expect any thing precise and making wines in Ctes du Marmandais is a beautiful adventure!!
_ciao
The backwater of the Cotes du Marmandais is home to Elian Da Ros' generations old family winery which he revitalized and took control of in the mid 1990's. His farm is about 16 ha, of which 8 are biodynamic (though he uses the practices on all the sites to some degree). He learned biodynamics at Z-H in the Alsace and further studied in Burgundy. All wines are natural. Native yeast ferments and gently handled.
Some tasting notes and info:
2006 Coucou Blanc, VdT, 13.5%.
A blend of sauv. blanc, sauv. gris, semillon reflecting the Marmandais' proximity to Bordeaux. The wine reflects Da Ros' time spent at Zind-Humbrecht. It is bone dry though very rich and complex. At once floral and chablis-like and next smokey and spice laden (5 cases imported).
2008 Le Vin est une Fete, Cotes du Marmandais, 12.5%
Merlot, Cabernet franc and abouriou(~10%). A playful yet seriously complex little wine. Juicy and fresh but with just enough gritty crunch to keep it standing. (Da Ros dismisses any theories suggesting his ancestral roots in the Veneto play a role in the structure of his wines).
2008 Abouriou, Cotes du Marmandais, 12.5%
The traditional local varietal all by its lonesome. You really get a sense of Da Ros' winemaking talent here, as the varietal isn't known to produce wines of exceptional quality or complexity. Whereas abouriou is typically soft, fruity and uncomplicated, this one has impeccable balance and great acidity. This is whole cluster fermented giving wonderful aromas. This can really make any well made cru beaujolais stand on its head (and be quite jealous). (7 cases imported)
2006 Clos Bacquey, CdMarmandais, 13%
This is produced fron a historically significant vineyard that has been farmed biodynamically since 2002. The vineyard sits upon limestone soild, benefitting the merlot most of all though cabernet franc, abouriou and cabernet sauv. are also present. Da Ros notes that in the vintages since the conversion to biodynamics, the wine has shown riper tannin and higher acidity, making for a better balanced and more age-worthy wine. This wine is concentrated and firm with a dark core but a lovely transparent color. The wine has richness that abounds yet it remains weightless. Extraordinary. (4 cases imported, and we plan to drink at least one by ourselves).
The Interview: (M.D. is Mike du Puy)
Thank very much you for your interest in my work and wines. I answered your questions writing I, but note that I am nothing without my team, the ladies who work hard in the vineyards all year long, the harvest team Regards, Elian
{M.D.} How do you describe your role in the winemaking process?
{Da Ros} I do not work with an oenologist, I vinify all my wines by myself. The days before harvest I go in the vineyard and taste the grapes, sometimes I go 2-3 times a day, little by little images, sensations are popping up and the big lines of the vintage become clearer and clearer in my mind. The day of harvest I try to listen to my feelings and [make] the best decisions. Also, you have to be very rigorous, and devoted to what you are doing. Harvest is once a year, you have to be 100% dedicated. It is like maneuvering a big ship, you have 30 persons working (harvest team) and you have to take decisions one after another.
{M.D.} Youve said that 8 hectares is the limit of what is humanly possible for one winemaker to farm biodynamically. Can you explain?
{Da Ros} What I said is a bit different. If a producer is working by himself, spreading biodynamics [preparations] by hand (back spray), 8 ha is the maximum he can do. Assuming that [preparations] have to be spread within 2 hours after being prepared, that you can work only a couple of days (fruit day, or roots day according to moon calendar are only 2 or 3 days in a row), a man can treat roughly 2 ha per hour (with back spray). Over 8 hectares you need to be assisted either by machine (tractors, quad ) or by other people.
{M.D.} How do you feel about the article written by William Jefford about your winery?
(An article entitled Elian Da Ros A Question of Confidence was originally published in Decanters December 2006 issue, describing the talent and confidence required for a winemaker to succeed in an appellation as seemingly insignificant as the Marmandais)
{Da Ros} I am very touched by the article, he described my work [well] and the challenges I have (or had) to face but also the pleasure to make wine where nobody expected it. I always believed in my homeland, Ive bet on it. I stayed focused on that idea and built everything around to make my dream come true. But I will not use the word confidence, I will rather say that I am a man with good will and with a pinch of insouciance (un homme avec beaucoup de bonne volont et une pointe dinsouciance, je suis peut tre un peu fou !! qui sait?) Also if I understood the article at one point William Jefford talks about price (quadruple, triple..) but I never wanted to make expensive wines I want to make good wine
{M.D.} What is different between making wine in Alsace and making wine in the Marmandais?
{Da Ros} The approach of vines and grapes is the same anywhere: hard and rigorous work in the vineyad and as [few] as possible unnecessary actions in the cellars. Here in Marmandais it is important to be very careful and focused on extraction. We have grapes full of tannin and the key point is to control the extraction to have a balance between fruit, freshness and tannin. On the other hand in Alsace the focus is on the [pressing] of the whites. In case of doubts [or] questions, I cannot rely on anyone (old man or other producers) to advise me, (in Alsace you have so many good winemakers), so sometimes I feel a little lonely. Hopefully I have good friends in other regions who I can talk to. AOC Ctes du Marmandais is not famous, which is both an advantage and a drawback promoting and selling Marmandais wine is a challenge (nobody knows the AOC!!), but on the other hand all is possible, everything is to be built, people do not expect any thing precise and making wines in Ctes du Marmandais is a beautiful adventure!!
_ciao