2003 Domaine Ganevat Ctes du Jura Ouill - France, Jura, Ctes du Jura (9/20/2008)
This is a special wine, by far the most impressive ouill Savagnin I've tried. It's clean, full of character, and a sense of place, all at the same time. The variety shines through with a spicy overtone that separates it from the bland, rather ho-hum versions out there. (I like Tissot, but the ouill version they send to the States has never moved me like this.) I've heard people gripe (Behr in The Art of Eating) that the Jura's sense of place can be reduced to the oxidative elevage of the whites; not here. It has the weight, general profile, density, and marked wood of many nice young white Burgundies. It's very impressive now, and I suspect it will get better in time. Doesn't show any ill-effects from the vintage.
This is a special wine, by far the most impressive ouill Savagnin I've tried. It's clean, full of character, and a sense of place, all at the same time. The variety shines through with a spicy overtone that separates it from the bland, rather ho-hum versions out there. (I like Tissot, but the ouill version they send to the States has never moved me like this.) I've heard people gripe (Behr in The Art of Eating) that the Jura's sense of place can be reduced to the oxidative elevage of the whites; not here. It has the weight, general profile, density, and marked wood of many nice young white Burgundies. It's very impressive now, and I suspect it will get better in time. Doesn't show any ill-effects from the vintage.